Can you elitminate the heater control valve and still have cool air when you turn the climate control unit to cold? This is the first heater control vavle I've come across externally that actually closes off the coolant flow to the heater core.

 

You will need two special tools to remove the steering wheel, one to push the center plate and remove the c-clip and the other one to remove the steering wheel, but some hard shaking and pulling should work aswell.

 

Stripped.

 

Replace the turn signal flasher and check power feed to the fuse board, (tester or lamp on every fuse) if you have juice trace wires to the faulty parts. Check ground cable at battery and engine-firewall.

 

You aren't exactly in the right place here, but anyway if you remove the last leaf from the leaf springs and cut one turn off the lower end of the coils you can lower 1 inch.

 

Replace the three o-rings in the oil filter adapter.

 

No because there will still be hot engine coolant flowing through the heater core.

 

I read taht I need a oil filter adapter for my 1990 cherokee to run standard and larger filters. I did a quick search and found "MR GASKET REPLACEMENT OIL FILTER BY-PASS ADAPTER" is this what I need? This looks like it just moves the filters location and my understanding was the stock filter is metric and the oil filter adapter would change the threads to standard. If this isnt what I need can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks.

 

I have two 6.5" speakers in the rear that were put in very poorly by the previous owner, the cover dont even stay on and it buzzes when the bass kicks. Also I have the factory head unit in and was wondering what speakers would work best with that I dont have much money right now for speakers and head unit....

 

So I am a newb and totally started a random thread
Here it goes....


I finally decided to make my jeep an off road vehicle, yea! And well after wrenching on her a bit she started acting up. I don't think it's from anything I did, but I don't know what's goin on so turning in for some help. The work I did was minor just an oil change and radiator flush (however on the radiator flush I was unable to remove the block drain plug). After that went on what was going to be a fun summer drive cut short due to complications as such, my oil pressure sensor started maxing out. As I slow down the pressure goes down so I ended up doing a grueling 150mile return at 55mph. By the time I got home my engine sounded like poo. When I went to restart it a week later the oil pressure was high off the bat and my engine now has a permaneant whining noise. There's no check engine light. I've checked my oil and it's fine. Temperature gage reads perfect. I don't know what's wrong with my jeep Anyone have some advice or suggestions please?

 

You don't provide how they are mounted... are they stuck in the roof, hatch, door, kick panel, factory? Are they in boxes or no?

If you want something that will sound good and you don't have factory places for speakers in the rear get something like this...


Sound Ordnance™ Bass Bunker

Pair of sealed 6"x9" wedge-style enclosures (Model BB692W)

• 3/8" MDF (medium-density fiberboard) with black carpet covering
• internal volume: 0.29 cubic feet each
• dimensions: 12-13/16"W x 7-7/8"H1 x 6-5/16"H2 x 7-7/8"D

mount the boxes however you want but obviously one on the right and one on the left would be best. I have seen people mount them to the rear fold down seat facing up. You can run the wires under the seat and then under the factory trim.



If you want to fix a botched install then try some foam speaker baffles. It will prevent a lot of sound from escaping into body panels causing rattles and echos. They also prevent moisture from damaging the speaker. They are cheap like under 10 bucks... they look like this...


XTC 6-1/2" Speaker Baffles

Protect your speakers (3-1/4" depth)

IN STOCK

• Waterproof
• fit behind your speakers to keep them clean and dry
• 3-1/4" deep

As for speakers... stay within your budget. The speakers I listed are really good for the money. Otherwise stick with name brands. unlike things like food, name brand speakers deliver the goods where as most nameless brands won't.

 

The botched ones are mounted in the roof in the back just has a bunch of screws keeping it in place and like i said i need to find a way to get the covers back over them.

and the Kicker KS5250 are two good speakers for my front door panel speakers?...and the head unit wont make much diference??

very new at this

 

I mean are they in the headliner?

Yes the KS5250 are good for the doors.

The head unit does make a difference but mainly depends on what you listen to most? AM/cassette? FM/XM? CD/MP3? If you like it old school then don't bother upgrading the radio. If you want new features and such upgrading the head unit will improve your experience. If you want to really get going I would invest in a 4 channel amp and a small sub woofer system.

The speakers are only going to sound as good as the signal pushing them. An amplifier can greatly increase the signal amplitude without distorting. It also helps the head unit by not making it work so hard to push the signal.

 

I know it's been asked. However it seems people with older model XJ's ask.
I've got a 1999 XJ sport. 4.0L. This too has the 3 O rings correct?
It's leaking pretty bad now. So I was going to hit up the dealership on monday and fix it. Along with Valve cover gasket. And a nice oil change.

I'm pretty sure my oil pan gasket needs to be replaced, but that's not getting done for a while. By the looks of it. It seems like a PITA to do.

 

They said above that my 98 has the 3 o-rings so I'd assume you do as well. Let me know if you fix that and if your leak stops.

By the way... I got an oil change and they told me pretty much everything leaks... filter, oil pan, tranny, both diffs... yay... more stuff to fix.