Alright thanks.

Now it's not blowing hot at all, the core must be plugged again

 

The ground wire for the diagnostic is on the oil dipstick stud. So I would recommend to check it. No. Don't look at it, take the lug off, clean the contact areas and put it back on.

 

I will do exactly that Thanks.

 

My xj has 191k on it so I don't expect it to idle perfectly but the rpms kinda bounce around on the tach when it idles. I just replaced the TPS after I sunk it in water and almost killed it and it still idles funky, any ideas?

 

Hello I'm new with getting into lifted trucks. I just bought a jeep Cherokee with a 3 in lift and 31 in tires on it. But I kind of want to go down to stock height because I read it could damage your transmission is this true? If so then where can I find a stock kit because I can only find lifted kits online? Thanks a lot!

 

I'd start by cleaning your IAC and throttle body, and then clean up your grounds to ensure the electrical system is working efficiently

 

Any relationship between the NSS and the instrument cluster? I just replaced my NSS (and the bulb for the rear wiper switch) and now my gauges are all out. I’ve checked the connections in the rear and all the fuses. I also just replace the ignition switch. My starting problems are cured but... no gauges.

 

im missing one of the exterior trim pieces that’s located right behind the rear window in my 2dr xj does anybody know what it’s called

 

Best I can tell you is from the parts Catalog:

APPLIQUE, Rear Quarter, P.A.R.

part #55025 788 and 55025 789

for 1990

https://cdn.xjjeeps.com/pdf/en-us/19...ts-catalog.pdf

Supposedly available from Part master for 61 bucks

http://m.autopartmaster.com/en/?acti...5&id_pic=26692

CAREFUL: They are different for 88-89 and 1990. They only have the 1990 ones available

 

Lost my job 6 weeks ago then my 2000 Cherokee started to be a bit finicky on a HOT start. Then, last week, nothing. I just don’t have $100 for towing and $100 plus for a diagnostic fee before we fet to the $311+tax duralast starter the local place quoted me for the $160 duralast at autozone. Yeah. Anyway. Not a series of little clicks. One big click and the starter won’t turn. Totally nothing but the big click now. Batt is good. Oh! 20001/2 without the distributor cap.

Help.

 

Try rapping on the starter gently with a hammer and then try to start it again.

That one click is the starter relay. That's a good thing. The fact that your starter isn't turning suggests it either 1) Has a power/ground issue, or 2) has a dead spot.

You can remove the starter, clean the surfaces, and reinstall it to ensure it isn't Problem 1. That's free.

Problem 2 usually starts with one or two dead spots on the starter, and the problem will get worse over time. If that's the case, tapping on it with a hammer can sometimes cause the innards to move enough that they make good contact again. I kept a bad starter going for a few months like that before it finally died, but your results may vary.

Side note: It won't hurt to remove your battery cables and ensure the clamps and battery terminals are clean and making good contact.

 

Thanks! We actually got down there and clunked it a couple times and although it would crank we did get a little RUH after one loud click. That’s what made me suspect the starter. Thanks much.

 

So...the AW4 prefers a DexII fluid, but after trolling every auto store and walmart nearby, I could not find any DexII fluid anymore. (WHY???) So, can DexIII be used and what would be the better one to go with without opening up oil debates?

Found this:
Not a bad deal for the amount, but eh...don't really need 5 gallons of this stuff sitting around for years.

 

It’s actually DEXIII that goes into the AW4. Look for products labeled Dex/Merc. Such as below:




Edit: I think the AW4 was originally spec’ed to run on dexII. I’m pretty sure that stuff isn’t on the market anymore. DexIII is the successor to dexII. Everyone runs dexIII.

 

DexIII is done. It's an updated formula