Hey folks I'm looking to piece together an OME 3" lift. I'm piecing it together so I don't have to drop $800+ all at once on the kit and possibly get it a little cheaper.
The trouble I'm running into is finding sites that sell pieces, is there a list somewhere, and no I don't mean https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/je...mpanies-76868/ that just lists the companies that provide kits.
I'm talking quadratech, rustys, uh... yeah that's all I've got off the top of my head. If you know such a list please post it up, or if you could name off some more companies (preferably ones dealing specifically with OME) that would be fantastic.
Thank you

 

Why no Moog? Thought they were #2 or 3 goto as far as suspension products?

 

Could also be "brake rotors"!!!!

 

tie rods & misc bushings are only moog products I ll use. Ball joints, or any other products are inferior now.

Hub bearings doesn't last long anymore. Ball joints are poorly manufactured, the tolerances crapped out lately. Coils sag way too quickly. You get the idea.

Might as well as buy cheaper house brands because the quality is the same and you pay less up front.

 

Rockridge 4WD, Barnes 4WD, Morris 4x4
Could also try contacting Dirk at DPG Offroad. Link to vendors; https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f10/

 

Well thanks for the heads up. I used Moog ball joints on my other ZJ and was thinking of swapping the axle to the new ZJ. You might have just saved me a few hours swapping axles! You'd think tie rods and balljoints would be a similar manufacturing process/design.

 

"Similar" indeed. It's often just a matter of manufacturing tolerances and material quality.

 

As I just learned, Spicer ball joints in Amazon are about half the cost of Moog from Advance. It's a win/win.

 

Of course the vendor section, duh. Thank you, I knew all these places but my brain couldn't think of them.

 

Dangit, ya beat me to it.

 

Would it be acceptable to have one end of the tie rod mounted UTK and the other end mounted OTK?
I feel like it would be okay as long as the TREs allow for enough misalignment, and the relationship should stay the same during suspension cycling if the tie rod is going knuckle to knuckle. It may wear them out faster, but I'm not seeing a reason why it shouldn't function.

The reasoning is my driver side knuckle on my YJ is already reamed for OTK, but I can't install the tie rod OTK on the new passenger side knuckle because it will hit my leaf spring (sprung over axle). If I can do OTK on the driver side and UTK on the passenger side, I can use my 1-ton linkage. If that shouldn't be done, I have to use stock steering.

 

I'm so confused. If the DS is reamed for OTK, why were you running UTK with the stock tie rod in your photo?
And why would the tie rod be in a different position with relation to the spring on one side vs the other? If OTK wouldn't the tie rod hit both springs?

Looks like currently UTK, and plenty of room for OTK to me...



That said, i can't really find a massive fault in your plan...

 

Two different D30s with two sets of knuckles
That's the SOA with crossover factory steering and a UTK tie rod.
The other one has my JCR setup (inverted-T) with OTK tie rod.

So...

Original axle with factory knuckles is reamed for JCR 1-ton OTK steering. It's in the bed of the J10.

The current axle (swapped in for gears, Truetrac, and SOA) has factory knuckles with the JB4x4 hi steer bracket. The stock UTK steering links are just separated from each other to use the bracket.

I ordered the Teraflex knuckle to replace my broken driver side one. It has tapered inserts so I can use stock or 1-ton links.

If I keep the current driver side knuckle, I have to keep the stock linkage (or take the knuckle to be reamed).

If I swap on the driver side knuckle that is already reamed, I can use the 1-ton tapered inserts on the passenger side and the reamed pitman arm that's already on the JCR drag link.

But, the driver knuckle that's already reamed is OTK. If the 1-ton tie rod goes all the way across OTK, it'll interfere with the springs. If I can keep the driver side OTK (the way my old knuckle is reamed), and install the tapered insert UTK on the Teraflex knuckle, there may be enough clearance to run the bar because of the slope.

Clear as mud?

 

Here you go, dukie

Axle A:



Axle B:




I need to install the new Teraflex knuckle in the passenger side of Axle A, which is the axle currently installed under the Jeep.

If I take the driver side knuckle from Axle B, I can use my JCR steering instead of the OEM toothpicks.

But! The thicker tie rod won't fit under the leafs if it's mounted OTK on both sides. And the driver side knuckle on Axle B is already reamed OTK.

So the question is this:
Can I install the tie rod OTK using Axle B's driver side knuckle and UTK on the new Teraflex knuckle?
This would put a slope in the tie rod's connection, and I think it would clear the springs with a full turning radius.

(The drag link is a non-issue. It will be well above the leaf springs, attached to the Teraflex knuckle's high steer arm)

 

Not sure if anyone knows what's up but I went for a four hour round trip ride and it seems to be holding the grease. El Cheapo Quick Steer from Rock Auto and since I can replace three for the price of one Moog, I'll just "wait and see."

Though if experience has taught me anything, I'll buy three and still end up buying Moog...