Just caught your alias OD. I appreciate veterans. Welcome home.

(but I still think $900 is beaucoup dinky dau)

 

I'm not a vet. Entire family is but myself. Health issues made it so I couldn't follow in the footsteps.
Anyways. Rock auto prob is $150. But shops do not order from rock auto. They order from the dealer. So that $150 Chinese steel pan from rock auto is a $300+ pan from dodge.
$80 an hour their real rate? My shop was the lowest in Oregon and we where at $95.
Let's say it's $80
80x4=$320 labor for pan
Pinion seal is around 2 hours.
80x2=$160
Up to $480 in labor.
A good gasket set runs about $60. Shops use the good stuff for less of a chance of a come back.
No let's say $40 in oil, filter. That's a realistic price for an oil change at a small shop.
Almost forgot $15 for the seal.
$480+$60+$40+$15 =$595
Now factor in a little shop supplies and hazard fee. And you're right at $600.
Now some pans are glued on. Literally glued on. You have to pry the Bastard off and that bends the Crap out of it. Now you gotta get a pan from the dealer. Dealer cost is around $300.

I've worked for and managed shops for the last 13 years. Most prices are not off the wall like people think. Shops won't call around looking for the cheapest of parts. Mainly because you don't make money on comebacks.

I see a quote of $600 for a pan and pinion seal and I think that's way to Damn low. Lol

 

good explanation.

 

Today I loosened everything and tried repositioning the Intake manifold. I am sure I got it on the guide pins. I could not slide it up, down or side to side. Re torqued everything to spec. Hooked every thing back up. Checked the throttle body and there are not obstructions, the butterfly opens and closes nicely.

Started up and it immediately revved to the max again.

Question, could be be the Idle Control Sensor or Throttle Position Sensor?

Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

RSWiser

 

Another culprit is the injectors. If they did not fully seat in rail, or if rail did not fully seat in manifold.

 

hey ive got some muffled grinding when i engage 4wd hi, grinds when i stop hard or am coasting. not bad most of the time until i get on it, could it be loose linkage?

 

When was the last time the front U joints were greased?

 

is it possible to pass a wire from the driver's side footwell to the passenger's without removing the dash/console and so it's hidden from the view (not hanging freely for everyone to see)? (older body style, it's a 96)

i'd put a led or two under the kick panel to get some light, so I need to run the switch to the whole thing.

 

Just pull the lower dash panel, it's easy.

 

mhm I figured the cigarette tray would not allow me to do that but looking at pictures online it seems that could work. ill try it out thanks

 

I just picked up a 1999 XJ Sport parts vehicle that is running but has a head gasket issue, I need a few parts for my 1998 Sport so this was a great find. I got it home and just noticed that it has the part time and full time option on the transfer case which my 98 does not have. Is this something that can easily be transferred to my 1998 or is it more complicated than it seems?

 

it's easy. Just swap t cases along with the wiring. That's all

 

Hello gentlemen.

I need a second, third and a forth confirmation on whether my rear axle is a chrysler 8.25 or dana 35.

Ive been looking at alot of axle covers to try and spot the differences and to me it looks like a chrysler 8.25 but i still need and experts confirmation.

My jeep is a 1996 xj if that helps.






Thanks

Rear axle



Numbers on the diff cover which i dont know what they stand for

 

That's an 8.25, the square edge along the bottom is the obvious element. But since its a 96 its probably the 27-spline and not as strong as the 29-spline that was used in 97-up. You may want to convert to 29-spline internals if you ever get a locker for it

 

Flat bottom, it's an 8.25. Don't remember the spline Clint on the 96 axles but it's definitely not a 35.