Any ideas/thoughts? I'm thinking about just tearing out the battery tray this weekend and maybe just welding up a steel one of sorts depending what happens. Unless that might cause cruise to stop working? Does it sound like maybe it's just disconnected inside the dash? I've heard that's a pain to get to...

 

Hang on - do you have a Grand Cherokee? The vacuum line routing might be different than an XJ...

In an XJ, we start at the intake manifold with a fitting and a check valve, go along the firewall, behind the engine, T into the HVAC system, along the firewall, along the fender, T into the cruise control servo, under the battery, and into the bumper where the reservoir is.

You can place the reservoir wherever you want, physically, but I imagine it's better at the end of the run.

Again, this is an XJ.

 

both of my horns were shot so I decided last summer to relocate them inside the engine bay. I only got around to make one, but it was working fine until a couple weeks ago and I'm at lost why.

Basically the horn grounds itself with the mounting location, so I used a small hole in the engine bay and put a bolt to hold it there. I got some wire to get from the old mounting location to the new one which is right in front of the master cylinder. Everything worked fine and I called it a day.

Now since a couple if weeks, I only hear the relay clicking. At first I thought bad ground, too much debris inside the fender, but even after cleaning everything and tightening it down, no luck.

any ideas?

 

Hey Salad, I pulled the fuel rail off today and primed it y turning the key back and forth. No leaky fuel injectors. So now what? Am I'm just worried about nothing?

 

Sounds similar, except it ends under the battery tray instead of the bumper. I'll try to find a pic in the FSM.

Vacuum resi:


Schematic:


Maybe the check valve is bad? Should that valve be in the engine bay?

 

It's possible - do you have anyone else that can smell the oil? My friend and I compared my Jeep and his Hondas and commented that they smell like 2-stroke lol. Did you do the viscosity check by putting a little oil on your finger? If there's excessive gas it'll run quickly. Proper oil will stay viscous.

A small amount of gas in the oil is 100% normal as some slips by on the compression stroke.

Looks like your check valve is on the T to the HVAC... interesting.

Could be bad. Could be a leak.

Ever use one of these?



Brand name is Mityvac - Princess Auto here sells the same tool as a brake bleeder for cheap, I'm sure Harbor Freight has an equivalent.. It's just a vacuum pump with a gauge. Will help you find leaks in a hurry. Also great for bleeding brakes lol

 

alright, and can I do the viscosity check with the engine cold or should I let it warm up to operating temp. Only thing a can compare oil with is a 2008 Honda Civic and a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan.

 

Nope, never have. If it's pretty cheap maybe I'll get one. The dealer did say I have a vacuum leak...it's just weird that my cruise is still working, I thought that was supposed to be the first thing to stop working...

 

Cold is good. Probably don't want 200 degree oil on your hand... lol

Go for it!

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-b...kit-69328.html

Absolutely indespensible! Once you've got this puppy, go through the engine bay and pop off the vacuum fittings in that circuit you're trying to test. Try each one of them and find the one that isn't holding vacuum.

 

Random question here..

When installing shackle relocation brackets. Does the amount of lift even out with the extra pinion angle changed? Or do you typically end up with more positive pinion angle?

 

pinion angle will change whenever you change the rear mounting point of the leaf packs. Either longer shackles or shackle relocation brackets.

 

Just picked this the other day. Other than buying a new TRE and collar, is it at all possible to replace the boot on the side that attaches to the drag link?

 

Yes you can replace just the grease boot.

What makes you think the joint is still good?

 

Just grabbed the first ZJ tie rod I could at the junk yard. Out of all the threads I read I never read anything about checking to see if the joint was good lmao

 

I have a 99 grand cherokee I replaced the heater core, it was a little crazy then one of the kids took the ground cable when I wasn't looking I put it back together and heard a clicking and saw the dash go crazy. I quickly disconnected the battery. Took everything back apart and put the ground on.
I went to start it and I have no power to the dash, radio windshield wipers and nothing when i try to start. I have power to the horn and the lights. Can someone help me in the right direction. I checked the main fuse 17 and it was good. Which relays should I be looking at? What else should I look at?
And not sure if this is how I am supposed to ask a question but I just need some help here