Do you go through mud?

 

the trans/tcase isnt moving at all, the pivot point on the shift linkage keeps working its way out of the retainer i guess youd call it and wobbles around instead of moving the linkage. looks like that boostwerks linkage will fix it, and get rid of that garbage design so im gonna go with that.

edited, just edited the pic to show what i mean. the whole pivot thing slides back and forth, and i can push it and seat it back in the hole no problem, but it doesnt seem like anything is there holding it in. so after shifting a few times it works its way back out again. i tried getting an e-clip on the back side to hold it, but there was nowher near enough room to get in there behind that bracket

 

Sometimes

 

Stock XJ in good condition can do that just fine lol.

Get reliable brand blank rotors and drums, and reliable brand ceramic friction. Check the calipers for good movement (you may need to replace the pins and boots), check hoses, replace all drum hardware (get the kits), adjust the drums properly. Vacuum leaks will affect braking performance too.

 

There's a little rubber thing that's supposed be in that hole. Check the other joints of the linkage and you'll see what I mean. These are kind of expensive for what they are. Maybe a local jy will let you have em free.

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrai...FQaBfgodk0UAug

 

Ok so I have searched this a lot and read tons of write ups, but none are what i'm looking for. So my auxiliary fan(electric one) doesn't come on when it hits 218F or above, the only way to get it on is to turn on the defrosters or the AC and then it isn't a constant thing, comes on for a few seconds every couple of minutes or so roughly. I'm going to replace the relay in a bit and see what that does but I dont think thats the issue. I'd like to just wire in a manual switch, the problem is every write up is for 88-95 or 97-01 and my jeep seems to literally have a mix of both. I don't want to deal with hunting wires through relays and crap, is it possible to just take the 2 wires that run from the connecter at the Efan and splice into them? Running wires to the front for a switch? Bypassing in relay and sensor junk? No write up I have found does this.

 

How do you know that? Have you used an OBD-II scanner or IR thermometer? If you are going based on the gauge in the cab you have to second- and triple-guess everything it tells you - it uses a different sensor from the PCM (which triggers you fan) and that sending unit in the back of the head is notorious for failing.

Doesn't sound like a relay problem to me... more like your A/C system leaked all the refrigerant out lol

 

My temp gauge got bumped when i did a dash swap, so at 210F it says its at 100F lol. I know this because I have an OBDII scanner that I connect and can see the info through my phone. I redid the entire cooling system last summer, new everything. And it stopped alot of overheating besides when going slow and trails or idling.

I'll put in a new relay, just from what most of what I've read if that fan still comes on from AC/Defrost on then the relay is good. But for the sake of assurance I will replace it.

Its definitely possible my AC has no refrigerant, I have not turned on AC in the 2 years I've owned the rig besides testing for the fan and when I first purchased it.

 

Where should I buy an ac manifold gauge set? Advance auto, napa or other source? I usually deal with advance over autozone or oreillys.

Just trying not to spend money on a gauge set that will break after I unhook it, like my harbor freight fuel pressure kit did which they took back.

 

WTF is going on here?



Also is this the ecu?

 

Ok so i replaced my relay for the auxiliary fan, now its throwing code p1491 i think it is. For the aux fan relay lol. Ideas?

 

Fan relay circuit. Here is what the FSM says to troublseshoot

1 Ignition on, engine not running.
With the DRBIIIt, read DTCs and record the related Freeze Frame data.
Is the Good Trip Counter displayed and equal to zero?
All
Yes ! Go To 2
No ! Refer to the INTERMITTENT CONDITION Symptom (Diagnostic
Procedure).
Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 2.
2 Turn the ignition off.
Remove the Radiator Fan Relay from the PDC.
Using a 12-volt test light connected to ground, probe the (A16) Fused B+ circuit in the
PDC.
Does the test light illuminate brightly?
All
Yes ! Go To 3
No ! Repair the open or short to ground in the (A16) Fused B+ circuit.
Inspect fuses and replace as necessary.
Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 2.
3 Disconnect the PCM harness connectors.
Measure the resistance of the (K173) Cooling Fan Relay Control circuit from PDC to
PCM harness connector.
Is the resistance below 5.0 ohms?
All
Yes ! Go To 4
No ! Repair the open in the (K173) Cooling Fan Relay Control circuit.
Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 2.
4 Measure the resistance between ground and the (K173) Cooling Fan Relay Control
circuit.
Is the resistance above 100 kohms?
All
Yes ! Go To 5
No ! Repair the short to ground in the (K173) Cooling Fan Relay
Control circuit.
Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 2.
170
DRIVEABILITY - GAS
TEST ACTION APPLICABILITY
5 Measure the resistance between the (Z307) Ground circuit and a known good Ground.
Is the resistance below 5.0 ohms?
All
Yes ! Go To 6
No ! Repair the open in the (Z307) Ground circuit.
Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 2.
6 Connect a jumper wire between the (C23) Radiator Fan Relay Output circuit and the
(A16) Fused B+ circuit in the Relay harness connector.
Did the Radiator Fan actuate?
All
Yes ! Go To 7
No ! Replace the Radiator Fan Relay.
Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 2.
7 NOTE: Before continuing, check the PCM harness connector terminals for
corrosion, damage, or terminal push out. Repair as necessary.
Using the schematics as a guide, inspect the wire harness and connectors. Pay
particular attention to all Power and Ground circuits.
If there are no possible causes remaining, view repair.
All
Repair
Replace and program the Powertrain Control Module per Service
Information.
Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 2.

 

I dont think its even anything that complicated. The key was on my seat, and I wiggled the new relay trying to get it out of the slot and the fan kicked on for a second. Didn't think it could do that? Plus I've put the old relay back in and tried clearing the code and it stays there. I hate electrical crap and really have no idea what half the info posted here means lol. I can tear down anything mechanical and deal with it, electrical is a complete loss and hurts my head to deal with. Why would putting in a new relay cause the CEL?

 

Depends, where is it? You just posted a picture of a generic automotive plug... lol

Maybe you took the picture in the driver's side floor area and maybe you have power windows and that's someone's bypass for the lock... or maybe not...

1993 XJ PCM lives under the hood on the left fender... that says "ELECTRONIC BRAKING SYSTEM" on it.

You will want to learn how to use a multimeter then because VT Jeep posted all the information you need to troubleshoot the circuit (although for formatting is ****-poor and he should really edit that ****). There's no magic pill, no silver bullet, we aren't in front of your Jeep. You've gotta test it.

 

my front wheels hop I guess.When I'm in 2wd sharp turning.It's like it feels when in 4wd and you cut the wheel sharp.Why is it doing that?