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Old Jun 24, 2014 | 03:49 PM
  #43786  
Gabriel wolf's Avatar
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Joined: Jun 2014
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From: San Diego,Ca.
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: IL6 4.0 Power Tech HO
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
Thanks XJwonders! I guess i need to sharpen my search skills. I think i am going to do this.

Thanks again for everyones help!! Hopefully eventually i will be able to pay it forward on here.

Last edited by Gabriel wolf; Jun 24, 2014 at 03:50 PM. Reason: misspelleing
Old Jun 24, 2014 | 03:56 PM
  #43787  
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From: Fayetteville, NC
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by EZEARL
Since you'll have your meter out might as well test the IAC.

Pin sequence;
A B C D

A to D/B to A = 40 to 80 ohms

B to C/C to D = open
Is there a list of multimeter ranges for other sensors? I plan on testing the IAC CTS TPS and Oil pressure sending unit. Going to retest my fuel pressure according to a post I saw

Last edited by crabmushrooms5; Jun 24, 2014 at 07:02 PM.
Old Jun 24, 2014 | 04:05 PM
  #43788  
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Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
'Water pump inlet tube' will likely need to be replaced also.
Maybe too late for this info, but I found a problem with my 4.0, and probably with all 4.0 that have been neglected. You get an accumulation of crud, slim at the back of the block. I've tried vinegar,(don't leave it in too long 4 days max), mean green, ammonia. Next is Oxy Clean. Only way to get to it is remove the trans or motor, and pop that back plug out. You'll be surprised at what you find
Old Jun 24, 2014 | 04:21 PM
  #43789  
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Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
I am going to install an electric line lock for my rear brakes. I need to get some 3/16 to 1/8" NPT compression fittings for the rear brake hardline. Anyone have any tips for when I cut into the hardline so that all the brake fluid doesnt empty out the MC?

DON'T use compression fittings on your brake lines. Most states it is illegal!!
Flare fittings only, for your safety and the other guy.
Old Jun 24, 2014 | 04:39 PM
  #43790  
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From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by HappyPappy
DON'T use compression fittings on your brake lines. Most states it is illegal!! Flare fittings only, for your safety and the other guy.
i used compression fittings on brake lines of different vehicles I owned and never had any problem with them blowing apart or leaking. And I know so many other people who have done the same with no problems.
Old Jun 24, 2014 | 06:00 PM
  #43791  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Question. My JY Driveshaft that i rebuilt for the front, same size as existing rear one (which use to be the front one) has play at the slip yoke, up and down movement. Can i rebuild the slip yoke or just have a Driveline place fix it. Can it be fixed? Didn't notice it as i did the u joints.
Old Jun 24, 2014 | 06:52 PM
  #43792  
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From: Bath, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I just want to gather opinions on this before I jump the gun. What clutches do you guys run on your 4.0/AX-15 combos? I work at autozone so I can get the duralast with a discount but if there's a better, more commonly trusted one, I'd like to go with that
Old Jun 24, 2014 | 07:58 PM
  #43793  
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From: WV
Year: '96
Model: Cherokee
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I used this test on my '96. '91 thru '97 use the same IAC.

IAC ohms test:
Pin sequence;
A B C D

A to D/B to A = 40 to 80 ohms

B to C/C to D = open

Last edited by EZEARL; Jun 24, 2014 at 08:33 PM.
Old Jun 24, 2014 | 08:05 PM
  #43794  
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From: WV
Year: '96
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by Daughtersgift
I have tried to search this forum for several weeks about leaks when it rains. i have a 2001 Cherokee sport and took apart the rear & can not pin point where my leak is coming from. 1st I replaced the liftgate weatherseal, but I can still trace a small amount of water coming in the rear driver's side cargo area pillar dripping. This continues to drip thus seeping the carpet in the cargo area then collecting under the rear seat behind the driver. I have resealed the roof rack holes. I have also attempted to reseal the liftgate hinge on that side with silicone. I cant see or feel any water where the wires come into the rear from the liftgate. Please help? I put everything back so my daughter can use the Jeep & stuffed a few rags to collect the water at that one spot to collect the water instead of it travelling thru the cargo area then to the back seat. Thanks

Tried using a hose (slow running) to find the leak?
Old Jun 24, 2014 | 08:38 PM
  #43795  
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From: Hagerstown MD
Year: 93
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 w/Flux Capacitor
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So, I replaced the fuel filter today and this thing was dated 05. To my horror when i pulled the end going into the metal fuel line...
THIS CAME OUT

Name:  IMG_20140624_205338_882_zpsf735bc2e.jpg
Views: 27
Size:  27.6 KB

So my question is: What should i do about this? Seafoam for the next 10 tanks? Or just replace my injectors because there's no way those things could be working right
Old Jun 24, 2014 | 08:56 PM
  #43796  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Picture isn't in focus, all I can see is dark stuff and I think a pine needle. Are there particulates in your fuel?

If you're concerned about particulates in your fuel system the only thing you can do to clean injectors is to back-flush them.
Old Jun 24, 2014 | 09:02 PM
  #43797  
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From: Hagerstown MD
Year: 93
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 w/Flux Capacitor
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Originally Posted by salad
Picture isn't in focus, all I can see is dark stuff and I think a pine needle. Are there particulates in your fuel?

If you're concerned about particulates in your fuel system the only thing you can do to clean injectors is to back-flush them.
The dark stuff is gas. It came out that nasty rust color.
Old Jun 24, 2014 | 09:32 PM
  #43798  
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Fayetteville, NC
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by salad
No reason to suspect fuel pressure from your description. How exactly does this thing not start if you don't have the pedal down? Does it not start at all like it can't get air or will it fire and then die super quickly if you don't hold the pedal down? The latter generally indicates a poor battery.



^^^ good stuff. Which model years is that good for?

Thinks its the latter. Thanks for the help. I know I'm kinda freaking out since there was an attempt on the life of my XJ. Going to see if I can scoop up some 4awg at advance to upgrade.
Old Jun 24, 2014 | 10:04 PM
  #43799  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Question. My JY Driveshaft that i rebuilt for the front, same size as existing rear one (which use to be the front one) has play at the slip yoke, up and down movement. Can i rebuild the slip yoke or just have a Driveline place fix it. Can it be fixed? Didn't notice it as i did the u joints.
Bumping this. The play is the slip yoke in the middle of the DS where the zerk is. I can grab it and it'll have 1/2" play in all directions.
Old Jun 25, 2014 | 12:59 AM
  #43800  
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From: ks
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by CherokeeJon
I just want to gather opinions on this before I jump the gun. What clutches do you guys run on your 4.0/AX-15 combos? I work at autozone so I can get the duralast with a discount but if there's a better, more commonly trusted one, I'd like to go with that
I tried the perfection kit from advance on mine and within 5000 miles the TO bearing was shot and the friction disc was bald. Second time around I'm running a Luk kit with a full metal Crown TO bearing. Never had a problem since.



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