Normal, check fluid level. If it was low in fluid then it will take some time till all the air bubbles (noise) get out. It's not immediate.
I suppose you are talkig about the 2 inch BB from either teraflex or procomp. You don't need shims and track bar.

97-99
PICTURE


you prolly lost the little clamps that hold the switches in place. Look on the bottom of the door behind the panel.

 

Ok, adding fluid to my differentials(gonna get it changed soon, this is temporary) and I've never done it before. i found the socket on the front one no problem and that seems easy(unscrew fill, close it up). So I look at the rear diff and there is what looks like a rubber plug?! Is this right? If I pull it out what's under it? Is this really all that's holding the oil in the diff? I can see that some oils is leaking from it, should I replace it? Is this something I can pick up at NAPA? What rear diff is this? (96 sport, stock as far as I know) thanks for the help.

edit: Ok I figured out it's a Dana 35, is it limited slip?

 

when i start my 1987 jeep wagoneer 4.0L FI 6cyl, it starts fine but doesn't idle.

 

i normally have to deppress the gas pedal until the engine warms up in order for it to idle

 

sounds like a sensor issue, my first two guesses based on the symptoms would be the Throttle Position Sensor or the Idle Air Control Valve.

Another possible issue could be the coolant temp sensor or any temperature related sensors as you say the engine idles fine after it warms up.

I suggest getting a multi-meter if you don't already have one and testing all your sensors one by one.

 

i just bought an adj trackbar from RE for my 4.5 inch lift.. i have to redrill the bracket hole to 5/8ths inch. the tierod is in the way of my drill.. if i drill at an angle the hole will be crooked.. how do i get around the tierod to actualy drill the hole straight.. i tryed jacking up the car but i didnt disco the sway bar and go high up but i probably should have tried that.. i thought i could come here and maybe get an answer.. any suggestions? anyone whos done this before?

 

well i was just going to cut the outside of it. companies that make the guards? heck with that i want to build it. this is a built not bought jeep. my last one was a bought not built and it drove me crazy but now i have a welder its on. was just going to cut and put the outside piece in just to have a good body line to follow for the armor.

the window thats great news i wasnt for sure. ill pick one up then and go to town.

 

cutting it out isn't worth the hassle IMO. I'd just pull/bang/push the dents out the best I could and the bolt a piece of 1/8th on for a quarter guard and incoporate a new tail light into that. Something along the lines of what THOR4x4 makes...

http://www.thor4x4.com/html/xj_corner_guards.html

It'd be really easy to fab up your own version of that. I'd bolt not weld so that if you need to remove it, It'd be fairly easy.

 

yeah i was thinking of doing that same thing but adding tube fender flares too. but i dont think 1/8 is going to be enough but 3/16 is probably too much though. my thinking a sheet that big in 1/8 would be a little flimsy, thoughts?

 

No, my bad. I meant to say 3/16ths, 1/8th is too thin and 1/4 would be overkill(for most that is)

Thor uses 3/16ths and its a good compromise for weight and strength.

 

Relax dude, haha, yes that little rubber thing holds all the oil in there. Just put some silicone on the cap before you put it back on. Don't overfill the pumpkin over the hole. The sport did not come with a trac-loc diff, anyway there is a tag that says it if it's a LSD.

 

Don't be lazy remove the steering linkage.

 

Ok two ?'s can I fit 30x9.50 15's with a 4 backspacing on a stock hight jeep without rubbing,and i want to put an open loop radiator in do i have to change the upper rad crossmember on my 87.

 

yes, no.

 

thnx for the fast reply,I love this forum