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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 08:47 AM
  #3766  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
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Originally Posted by lfhoward
Thanks for the quick reply, Dukie. I drove roughly 3,000 miles before I figured out what was going on with the cracked head. 2000 miles of that was the end of the last oil change (from which I took a sample to have it tested for coolant) and 1000 miles was on new oil.

The Jeep's in the shop now for a head replacement (waiting for the new head to ship). Are cam bearings something the shop could check while the engine is disassembled, or do we have to wait for everything to be put back together again to get a good read on it? It seems a shame to put it all back together just to take it apart again if the bearings need replacing.
Cam bearings require the entire engine to be removed and disassembled, but they rarely are the ones that get damaged. The crank bearings are the ones that are usually affected. They can be inspected/replaced with the engine in the vehicle just by removing the oil pan.
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 08:47 AM
  #3767  
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Ok that sux than cuz I wanted to do this myself but the Haynes manual said that if I needed to replace a seal or bearing to take the axle shaft to a machine shop so I thought I was better off having a professional do it
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 08:49 AM
  #3768  
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Originally Posted by jeepcherokee99
Ok that sux than cuz I wanted to do this myself but the Haynes manual said that if I needed to replace a seal or bearing to take the axle shaft to a machine shop so I thought I was better off having a professional do it
seals you can definitely do yourself. Bearings you have to bring the axle to a machine shop in your case.

http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAxleSeal.htm
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 08:56 AM
  #3769  
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How do I figure out wat axles I have on my 99 grand Cherokee limited without a tow package or factory hitch on it? I dnt kno if that changes wat axles I have or not bn the fact it doesnt have a factory hitch on
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 09:00 AM
  #3770  
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Originally Posted by jeepcherokee99
How do I figure out wat axles I have on my 99 grand Cherokee limited without a tow package or factory hitch on it? I dnt kno if that changes wat axles I have or not bn the fact it doesnt have a factory hitch on
look at the diff covers.
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 09:00 AM
  #3771  
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N I have the 6 cylinder
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 09:01 AM
  #3772  
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It says it on there?
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 09:13 AM
  #3773  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
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Originally Posted by jeepcherokee99
How do I figure out wat axles I have on my 99 grand Cherokee limited without a tow package or factory hitch on it? I dnt kno if that changes wat axles I have or not bn the fact it doesnt have a factory hitch on
the best way is to email jeep your VIN and ask for your build sheet.

However i'm going to guess and say that if it's a '99 WJ Limited, you have the v8 and most likely have the d44a rear end, and LPd30 front.
d44a


EDIT: How can it be the limited and have the v6? anywho, in that case you probably have the d35 rear end.

Last edited by dukie564; Mar 18, 2011 at 09:21 AM.
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 09:19 AM
  #3774  
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From: BC Canada
Year: 1988
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Originally Posted by 00skgsport
Still need advice. 2000 XJ (cherokee sport w/ 9" rear drums, non abs system). I recently replaced front pads and rear wheel cylinders, rear brake hardware and rear shoes. Thanks to this site, everything is correctly installed, working, and rears were adjusted. Replaced brake fluid; bled everything. Rears are locking up if I make a hard stop, even from slow speeds. What is going on?

Some searching here did not yield results, and searching the net shows everything from the brake systems are poorly designed, to that's the way they work, to replace proportioning valve. It wasn't doing this before the brake job, but the old rear shoes were soaked in brake fluid from the leaking wheel cylinders, so probably weren't working well. One suggestion early was to make sure that the surfaces the front pad tabs ride on are clean and lubed. They are.

I got quite the look from the woman in front of me in traffic last night when I locked up in stop and go traffic. Please help.
Try backing off on the adjustment to loosen them up.
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 09:22 AM
  #3775  
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It is limited n it is a 6 cylinder
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 09:23 AM
  #3776  
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LPd30 front, d35 rear
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 09:23 AM
  #3777  
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My diff is definitely the second picture thx dukie
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 09:25 AM
  #3778  
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My rears dnt have the c clip on the axles tho that's wat Haynes manual said so wuld that still b the same for the axle seals they can b replaced without removing the wheel bearing?
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 09:36 AM
  #3779  
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Originally Posted by jeepcherokee99
My rears dnt have the c clip on the axles tho that's wat Haynes manual said so wuld that still b the same for the axle seals they can b replaced without removing the wheel bearing?
you are correct, you don't have the c-clips, but you still need to drain the fluid so it doesn't come out the end of the shafts when you pull them. Procedure for the seals is the same.

this should clear things up - it's more specific to your model
http://www.jeepslimited.com/index.ph...d=22&Itemid=98
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 09:43 AM
  #3780  
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Thx but again he says bring ur axle, bearing, and SEAL to ur machine shop. So I guess I will trust that my mechanic did replace the left rear axle seal without taking off the wheel bearing.



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