Depends on the design, if both are designed well than you won't damage either during normal use so it comes out to preference. I'm a plate guy

 

Well, it depends on how strong there are.

 

Well I have the Orfab non winch bumper and it seems like thick tube. But I want a winch bumper and was wondering if I should make it into a winch bumper or buy a winch bumper.

 

I have a 89 jeep cherokee laredo that will not shift out of 1-2 gear except with the tcu fuse removed, then i can shift manually. Put in rebuilt transmission,new tcu,speed sensor,tps. Cleaned all the connections and still will not shift in drive, starts in 1-2 gear and stays there...any help would be appreciated...1989 jeep laredo 6 cyl. 4.ol, aw4 automatic...

 

Ever do this?:

Renix Ground Refreshing
The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, failed emission tests, and wasted money replacing components unnecessarily.
The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are:
Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU "Shift Point Logic", Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff.
The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following:
Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint.
Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely.
While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely.
Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end.
First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely.
Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4" socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely.
A suggestion regarding the braided cable:
I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18" long with a 3/8" lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116.
A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10" long with 3/8" terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115.
For those of us with Comanches, it’s very important to remove the driver’s side taillamp assembly to access the ground for the fuel pump. Remove the screw holding the black ground wire. Scrape the paint from the body and corrosion from the wire terminal. Reattach securely.
If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price.
　
Revised 03-04-2013


RENIX TPS ADJUSTMENT
Before attempting to adjust your TPS be sure the throttle body has been recently cleaned. It's especially important that the edges of the throttle butterfly are free of any carbon build-up.
IMPORTANT NOTE: With the Key OFF, and using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS. The letters are embossed on the connector itself. Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it parallels the valve cover and also over near the MAP sensor on the firewall. If you see more than 1 ohm of resistance, or fluctuation in your ohms reading, some modifications to the sensor ground harness will be necessary. The harness repair must be performed before proceeding. I can provide an instruction sheet for that if needed.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION:
RENIX manual transmission equipped XJs have only a flat three-wire TPS mounted on the throttle body and it provides data input to the ECU. It has three wires in the connector and they're clearly embossed with the letters A, B, and C. Wire "A" is positive. Wire "B" is ground. Key ON, measure voltage from "A" positive to "B" ground by back-probing the connectors. Note the voltage reading--this is your REFERENCE voltage. Key ON, back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "C". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be seventeen percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example: 4.82 volts X .17=.82 volts. Loosen both T-20 Torx screws attaching the TPS to the throttle body and rotate the TPS until you
have achieved your desired output voltage. Tighten the screws carefully while watching to see that your output voltage remains where it is supposed to be. If you can't achieve the correct output voltage, replace the TPS and start over.
Sometimes, after adjusting your TPS the way outlined above, you may experience a high idle upon starting. If that happens, shut the engine off and reconnect your probes to B and C. Start the engine and while watching your meter, turn the TPS clockwise until the idle drops to normal and then rotate it back counterclockwise to your desired output voltage.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION: RENIX automatic transmission equipped XJs have a TPS with two connectors. There is a flat three-wire connector, same as the manual transmission vehicles have, and it is tested the same as the manual transmission equipped vehicles, as outlined above—FOR ALL ENGINE MANAGEMENT RELATED ISSUES.
However, the automatic TPS also has a square four-wire connector, clearly embossed with the letters A,B,C, and D. It only uses three wires and provides information to the Transmission Control Module. THIS SQUARE FOUR WIRE CONNECTOR IS USED FOR TRANSMISSION/SHIFTING RELATED ISSUES ONLY. Key ON, measure voltage between "A" positive and "D" ground. Note the voltage. This is your REFERENCE voltage. Back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "D". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be eighty-three percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example 4.8 volts X .83=3.98 volts. Adjust the TPS until you have achieved this percentage. If you can't, replace the TPS and start over. So, if you have an automatic equipped XJ your TPS has two sides--one side feeds the ECU, and the other side feeds the TCU.
FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION RELATED ISSUES: Check the square four-wire connector side of the TPS.
If you have ENGINE ISSUES check the flat three-wire connector side of the TPS.
For those with a MANUAL TRANSMISSION--the TPS for the manual transmission XJs is stupid expensive. You can substitute the automatic transmission TPS which is reasonably priced.
Revised 09-22-2012

 

Adjusting linkage on a NP242?

 

Think this is Google or Wiki?





Transfer Case Linkage Adjustment
Straight from the FSM:

SHIFT LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT
(1) Shift transfer case into 4L position. (make sure your shifter is fully in the 4L position)
(2) Raise vehicle.
(3) Loosen lock bolt on adjusting trunnion (Fig.
87).
(4) Be sure linkage rod slides freely in trunnion.
Clean rod and apply spray lube if necessary.
(5) Verify that transfer case range lever is fully
engaged in 4L position. (you can do this under the vehicle at the transfer case)
(6) Tighten adjusting trunnion lock bolt.
(7) Lower vehicle

 

Hmm then that's not my problem. Tcase linkage popped out while I lowered my Trans and now it's not wanting to go back into 2wd. I've got to throw it down, reverse, etc to get it back in.

 

You're 100% sure you don't need to adjust it?

 

I've got a 2004 Jeep Cherokee that recently has had an issue with the speedometer needed bouncing all over the place and occasionally after I've been driving for a bit acts like it doesn't want to shift from 1 to 2. I've had the crank sensor replaced because it wouldn't start and was told that was the issue...I've been told by many and looked online and seems like the issue with the speedometer and shifting could be a faulty speed sensor. I had a diagnostic scan done at auto zone and that did come up. I've had the speed sensor replaced and just picked it up tonite. It was fine driving home, no engine lights on and shifted fine. drove it a few hours later and the needle started jumping and then the shifting issue started and the engine light came on. Any thoughts on what it could be? The mechanic told me today that if there was an issue to bring it back which I will because it could be a faulty tps sensor. Would that cause the needle to bounce like that and the issue with shifiting?

 

Mine had/has same problem. Don't come to a forum for advic if your not going to listen to it. Especially from a seasoned man such as Cruiser. Odds are he is right. Mine just needed adjusting.

 

Is it a 2004 Grand Cherokee, or are you outside the USA, driving what we call a Liberty?

 

Just a recap............
The starter wasn't "completely" bad but, getting there so, I replaced it.
I'm not sure the relay was actually bad, or even going bad but, it's got a new one now anyway.
Finally narrowed it down to the Neutral Safety Switch and found the write-up about renewing it so, I removed the thing and took it apart to clean it up.
BTW, whoever routed the wiring harness for that needs their *** kicked repeatedly. It was ziptied in 3 places (which I can understand) but, it was also wrapped around the dipstick tube 3 TIMES!.......which made it quite the challenge to remove.
Anyway..........I carefully removed the cover (so as not to lose any parts) only to find that the sweeper arm was split right down the middle and was now in 2 pieces. So ok fine, I have to buy a new one. I called all around town (including the local Jeep Dealer) and nobody has one in stock. Prices ranged from $205 to $395. The cheapest I was able to find one online (with shipping), was $150.00 but, 5-7 days shipping and I need it ASAP so I called this little hole-in-the-wall parts store that I'd almost completely forgotten about. They didn't have one in stock but, will have me one tomorrow morning for $167.

 

What year did they make the jeep cherokee fuel injected

 

No I did adjust it but it didn't fix my problem so there's something else.