Have fun with that one.. I've got one too

 

This could be very likely on mine.
WHen I did the first oil change on this jeep since the PO the oil filter was stuck like hell on the adapter. I finally got it off after mutilating the filter.

Then when I changed the oil saturday I removed the old filter, and not only was the seal still on the old oil filter, another seal came out from inside the adapter.. like it had just been sitting in there??!?

I put on a Mopar filter, cranked it up and let it run for like 10 minutes, no leaks.

Then when I came out this morning I noticed the bit of oil on the ground.

 

The seal you grabbed was left over from the old filter. The o-rings for the adapter are internal and there fore would not get spit out.

 

You didnt have full synthetic before. Thats another reason why it leaked too,possibly, fromt the smoother oil. Happened to me when i went to full syn but smoothed out now. Also, did you run a bead oof oil around the filter when you installed it. Wonder if it seated properly.

 

That's why I will run conventional all day every day.

 

Xj88,

Before you do the vc make sure you move the hose clamp that holds the upper rad hose on the thermostat housing. You will thank me later! Lol

 

Yes I did lube the filter seal..
Thats what the PO failed to do..and why it stuck like hell when I tried to get the old one off.
I was just running cheap quaker state before, for only about 800 miles, just to see how nasty it would be..

I wanted to transition to the rotella t6 since it has such great reviews.

 

can i have a help here about my jeep beeping for about 5 times after i turn on the ignicion key ? i dont have nothing unusual in the panel but now always 5 beeps before i start the engine....thankyou

 

What year is your Jeep?

 

Hey my mobil 1 HM works well lol. sucks during that warm weather transition though. The 5W wears thin faster. Need to do an oil change once i can get to walmart and get me some oil. $25 for 5qt jug of Mobil 1 HM plus $6 per quart

 

2000...jeep cherokee classic

 

That's normal. Seat belt reminder.

 

I run service pro 10w just because it's free at work plus a wix filter

 

Stupid questions..maybe.. Haha, I'm getting a front locker soon, my question is this. Will it be okay if I leave the front locked for awhile until I get the rear locked? No damage will be cause by just having more traction towards my front wheels? Next question. The RC tie rod upgrade kit says for 4+ inches of lift. Is it okay to run it on my 3 inch lift?

 

Thanks ...this is always good advice. But. I have zero rust issues. Seriously. Honest injun. None. I was even able to remove all four of my rear upper shock bolts without breaking 'em (I did replace the factory grade 5 bolts with grade 8's though, lol). This was originally an Arizona car, that I bought before I left California: clean as a whistle. (Well, not clean, exactly lol.)

And I still do PB and CRC FreezeOff anyways lol ...I really need to buy stock in those companies lol.

So rust is not my issue; the "outside" torx bolts came out "no problem".

The problem is I can't wedge a frickin' T40 socket AND the necessary ratchet (or breaker bar or whatever-I-tried-in-desperate-frustration) IN that space to get to the "inside" torx bolts. Nothing fits.

Even with the door fully open, nothing in my toolbox fit. Even with the super short T40 socket that my bestest neighbor loaned me when he walked over to see what my latest folly was ...still no room in there/

Aaaaarrrggghhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



...that was not the response I was hoping for, sigh.

Crapcrapcrapcrapcrap.

...and you just know that there had to be a factory tool that did this easily, simply, and painlessly.

Thanks salad. I would not have thought about searching for filter adapters for info about door hinge bolts tools.