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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 03:36 PM
  #26401  
xj_maniac_newb's Avatar
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From: Summerville, Ga
Year: 1995
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Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
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Originally Posted by 89xjrocker
I woulda told em never mind and taken my money elsewhere
I'd already paid for it once. Today was the second time they've aligned it, this was supposed to be "them fixing it". Lol.
Old Mar 14, 2013 | 04:17 PM
  #26402  
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Originally Posted by xj_maniac_newb

I'd already paid for it once. Today was the second time they've aligned it, this was supposed to be "them fixing it". Lol.
I'd tell them it isn't fixed get it right or give me my money back
Old Mar 14, 2013 | 05:07 PM
  #26403  
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From: New Jersey
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 HO
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Originally Posted by mitchlikesbikes
i just ordered the gasket kit for the oil filter adapter.
is this just an "unscrew - replace gaskets - reinstall" type of thing or is there anything else i need to know?

on a 96 4.0 btw
Take an old wrench you don't care about and a t60 and weld the t60 to the wrench like I did here. This will make it alot easier. Bc it is a pain in the butt. A wratchet with a t60 socket will not fit.

If you don't have access to a welder take the wrench and t60 to a shop and ask them to weld it up for you. Buy whoever does it a coffee and you'll be on your way.
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 07:16 PM
  #26404  
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Year: 1999
Model: Grand Cherokee
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So I had my transmission rebuilt about 3 years ago. In the mornings when I first start it up and put it in reverse it moans. As soon as I put it in drive it goes away. Anybody know what that could be? Also I bought some Lucas oil automatic transmission conditioner, do you think that could help?
Old Mar 14, 2013 | 07:19 PM
  #26405  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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The reverse gear in almost every transmission is straight-cut, which tends to be quite noisy. Have you changed the build since the rebuild? Does it to it when the transmission is hot? I wouldn't recommend the Lucas stuff to anybody unless you're trying to get one more week out of something until you rebuild.
Old Mar 14, 2013 | 07:36 PM
  #26406  
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From: Chesapeake Beach, MD
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
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Originally Posted by xj_maniac_newb

I had to show them you could even adjust the castor on a jeep.. Then show them how to move the bolt with the adjustment shoe. Lol i'd rather take it anywhere but there.
Funny you say your mechanic said you couldn't adjust the castor on your jeep, mine told me the same thing and it pulls to the right hard, have had it aligned twice
Old Mar 14, 2013 | 07:42 PM
  #26407  
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Year: 1999
Model: Grand Cherokee
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Originally Posted by salad
The reverse gear in almost every transmission is straight-cut, which tends to be quite noisy. Have you changed the build since the rebuild? Does it to it when the transmission is hot? I wouldn't recommend the Lucas stuff to anybody unless you're trying to get one more week out of something until you rebuild.
No it only happens first thing in the morning. I have done nothing to it since the rebuild. So you dnt think I should even use the Lucas stuff. It's only a conditioner...
Old Mar 14, 2013 | 07:56 PM
  #26408  
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From: Summerville, Ga
Year: 1995
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Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
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Originally Posted by MD_XJ_MD
Funny you say your mechanic said you couldn't adjust the castor on your jeep, mine told me the same thing and it pulls to the right hard, have had it aligned twice
Sounds like you went to a shop as bad as the one i went to. Got to a reputable 4wd shop or one you know works on lifted vehicles often. Even if your jeep isnt lifted.
Old Mar 14, 2013 | 08:37 PM
  #26409  
salad's Avatar
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by jeepcherokee99
No it only happens first thing in the morning. I have done nothing to it since the rebuild. So you dnt think I should even use the Lucas stuff. It's only a conditioner...
Lucas Transmission Fix? That stuff ain't a conditioner lol. It's basically red molasses... I wouldn't want that crap in any hydraulic system

Try changing your fluid with the correct stuff. Not sure which transmission you have... 42RE is supposed to be ATF+3 only, 45RFE is ATF+4. Try the Grand Cherokee-specific forum section
Old Mar 14, 2013 | 08:47 PM
  #26410  
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Cherokeekid4x4
Well if you are wanting to stay at 6 inches yes go with RC 3 inch full leafs. Or these ( since I can't find just 3 inch springs) won't look to bad with a little extra in the back that's how mine was. Then it settled. http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=XSP
Thanks!
I went with the (non rc) 3.5 leaf packs.
Old Mar 14, 2013 | 09:21 PM
  #26411  
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Year: 1999
Model: Grand Cherokee
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Originally Posted by salad

Lucas Transmission Fix? That stuff ain't a conditioner lol. It's basically red molasses... I wouldn't want that crap in any hydraulic system

Try changing your fluid with the correct stuff. Not sure which transmission you have... 42RE is supposed to be ATF+3 only, 45RFE is ATF+4. Try the Grand Cherokee-specific forum section
This is the stuff.

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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 10:43 PM
  #26412  
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What's up guys Im in the market for a winch I'm leaning towards a superwinch and I want to run synthetic rope that won't break the bank something around 8000lb to 10000lb any suggestions are welcome
Old Mar 14, 2013 | 11:38 PM
  #26413  
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I have a 2000 Cherokee Sport 4.0L v6. Ever since i got my baby 5 years ago, i've had problems with misfire codes..usually its the first cylinder and the plug has gotten really nasty, so I replace it and its fine.

When I start my jeep, the engine runs rough, I can hear a knocking, and it seems like the same thing as when my first plug is bad (like its skipping a cylinder). Sometimes if I let it run for a few minutes, the knocking goes away. Other times when I let it run, the light starts to flash. This happened again when I was leaving work tonight, and after letting it run for like 10 minutes the knocking wasn't getting any better and I chanced it and drove home. Probably 5 minutes down the road the knocking was completely gone.

I have been screwed over by a lot of different mechanics with this problem, and have paid to replace the coil pack, the o rings around the fuel injectors, and had a mechanic try to tell me that the knock in my engine was because i needed an oil change. (i may be a girl, but i'm not an idiot..and I had just had the oil changed)

Essentially I'm looking for some insight to what is actually going on. I'm 600 miles from home at school, and don't have any choice but to take it somewhere and get it looked at, but I really don't want to get screwed over again. I spent $400 last month to get the same problem "fixed" and I'm right back where I started, and can't afford to shell out another $400.
Old Mar 14, 2013 | 11:51 PM
  #26414  
odgreen's Avatar
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From: some small town oregon
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by lshort8907
I have a 2000 Cherokee Sport 4.0L v6.
No you dont....
You have a 2000 Cherokee sport 4.0l straight 6.

Last edited by odgreen; Mar 14, 2013 at 11:58 PM.
Old Mar 15, 2013 | 12:37 AM
  #26415  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
Premium Member
 
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by lshort8907
I have a 2000 Cherokee Sport 4.0L v6. Ever since i got my baby 5 years ago, i've had problems with misfire codes..usually its the first cylinder and the plug has gotten really nasty, so I replace it and its fine.

When I start my jeep, the engine runs rough, I can hear a knocking, and it seems like the same thing as when my first plug is bad (like its skipping a cylinder). Sometimes if I let it run for a few minutes, the knocking goes away. Other times when I let it run, the light starts to flash. This happened again when I was leaving work tonight, and after letting it run for like 10 minutes the knocking wasn't getting any better and I chanced it and drove home. Probably 5 minutes down the road the knocking was completely gone.

I have been screwed over by a lot of different mechanics with this problem, and have paid to replace the coil pack, the o rings around the fuel injectors, and had a mechanic try to tell me that the knock in my engine was because i needed an oil change. (i may be a girl, but i'm not an idiot..and I had just had the oil changed)

Essentially I'm looking for some insight to what is actually going on. I'm 600 miles from home at school, and don't have any choice but to take it somewhere and get it looked at, but I really don't want to get screwed over again. I spent $400 last month to get the same problem "fixed" and I'm right back where I started, and can't afford to shell out another $400.

You'd probably be better off starting an actual thread for this. Could be a number of things and we'll need to know more about the problem and more about what's been done already. Also your engine is Inline and not a V configuration.



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