wont start
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: south dakota
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i just changed my spark plugs and wires and also my cap and rotor and ignition coil. now it wont start i have everything connected i tried switching the wires around nothing will work i made the mistake by not marking them but iv tried everything i could think of. i was wondering if anyone had any ideas
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 882
Likes: 2
From: Michigan (Home state) Stationed in Montana
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L MPI V8 (318)
First thing to do would be to make sure all your wires and firing order are correct. Make sure they're all on the rotor in the right order. If that doesn't work, pull the plugs. Make sure they're gapped right, then put them in again. If it ran before the tune-up, first thing would be to check what you just did. Make sure the wires go from each plug to the rotor in this order. Plug 1 to spot 1 on the rotor and so on.
Last edited by CherokeeCountry; Feb 22, 2011 at 01:43 PM.
Somthing has to be installed incorrectly. Maybe the rotor was put on 180* backward. Or the wires are incorrectly routed.
Its probably an easy fix, just gotta figure out whats not how it was when you started.
Its probably an easy fix, just gotta figure out whats not how it was when you started.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: south dakota
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
so six is the back of the engine Right?? i just pulled all the plugs again checked the gap and they are good and the cap is on right so it has to be the wires
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: south dakota
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i have tried everything you guys have said still wont start i had the wires running from the back being one and so and it will turn over but not spark i can sit there and turn the key for more then 5 seconds but when i put it as one being on the front and so on i turn the key and it goes for maybe 3 seconds and then something clunks
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Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, WA via Chehalis, WA
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO L6
Be careful w/ excess cranking, The oil pump won't be pumping oil, and you could seize your engine if not careful. If she won't start in 5-7 seconds, STOP and re-check your wires, etc.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 12,367
Likes: 23
From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
The oil pump will be pumping oil when cranking, but you can burn up the starter.
Why did you replace the coil? I think it may be the problem.
Did it run before your "tune up"?
Why did you replace the coil? I think it may be the problem.
Did it run before your "tune up"?
Last edited by Bustedback; Feb 23, 2011 at 01:39 PM.
CF Veteran




Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 5,841
Likes: 117
From: In the middle of Minnesota!
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Gotta look at "cause and effect here".
If the engine ran BEFORE you did this work, the problem is something in the work performed. Of course it could be something else, but the odds on that are not good.
If the wires are all correct and the coil wire is seated firmly on both ends, then it is possible that you got a bad coil right out of the box. It happens more than you would think. I would either test it yourself or take it back to where you got it and try another one.
If the engine ran BEFORE you did this work, the problem is something in the work performed. Of course it could be something else, but the odds on that are not good.
If the wires are all correct and the coil wire is seated firmly on both ends, then it is possible that you got a bad coil right out of the box. It happens more than you would think. I would either test it yourself or take it back to where you got it and try another one.
Gotta look at "cause and effect here".
If the engine ran BEFORE you did this work, the problem is something in the work performed. Of course it could be something else, but the odds on that are not good.
If the wires are all correct and the coil wire is seated firmly on both ends, then it is possible that you got a bad coil right out of the box. It happens more than you would think. I would either test it yourself or take it back to where you got it and try another one.
If the engine ran BEFORE you did this work, the problem is something in the work performed. Of course it could be something else, but the odds on that are not good.
If the wires are all correct and the coil wire is seated firmly on both ends, then it is possible that you got a bad coil right out of the box. It happens more than you would think. I would either test it yourself or take it back to where you got it and try another one.
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