Just saw a Cherokee Sport in good condition, so I'm wondering what makes this model year better or worse than the few years before and after this one.

Thanks for your help!

phil

 

Biggest drawbacks are the 0331 head and heat soak issues. IMO. Both '00 and '01. Google it. Tons of stuff out there to educate you. Also all '01's are CA emissions. '00 can be either. CA emissions means the dual cat set up. Kinda of a pain there too. Most will tell you '99 first and '98 second are the years to buy. I think the dual exhaust manifold set up might be a little less prone to cracking on '00 and '01 as opposed to the one piece design in '99 down. Just a guess on my part though. Don't let the things I mentioned keep you from buying an '00 or '01. Just stuff that you need to know when looking and them. Hey if the price is right and you are mechanical enough to do your own work......

 

0331 head like Ralph said.....not all crack, but some do. Usually the signs are unexplained coolant loss, and of course if the oil is milky. Replacement heads are $450, gaskets about $100........... Heat soak can be an issue if the coolant system is not maintained. Usually only happens in hot weather. if you drive the Jeep, turn it off for about 3 or 4 minutes, then start it back up and it has a misfire that goes away after a short time, then that is heat soak.

The biggest issue is the cooling system. I would check the coolant level, make sure it is at the full mark on the reservoir, then drive it at least 30 miles, make sure you didn't lose any. Check the temperature make sure it's not running hot too. If it's running hot then walk away. After you test drive it let it sit and idle for 5 minutes see what the temps are.

 

In regards to the 331 head crack issue, I'll just add to check the oil dipstick and pull the oil filler cap then check both for signs of coolant contamination in the oil.
And hope the seller didn't clean any signs of contamination and just did a fresh oil change with a small crack in the head.

Far as the heat soak, its a definite problem. There are TSBs out on it which marginally worked in my case. The electric fan delay killed that problem dead in its tracks.

Another pesky issue at least with my 2k is it likes to eat radiators. Check the radiator close for any signs of a leak.

 

It doesn't always show in the oil.


As for eating radiators, has the vehicle ever been in a collision? If the radiator mounts are just a bit tweaked, you can torque the radiator when you install it, and vibration and that slight torque team up to pull seams apart.

If it's just developing leaks, look for a grounding problem. Electrolysis or galvanic corrosion (different, but often confused) can eat radiators and heater cores.

 

Your right not always with a small seeping crack, but with a wide open severe crack it should show.
Doesn't hurt to check the dipstick and oil filler cap which should only take a few seconds.

One other thing i forgot to mention for the OPer is to check the oil pressure which might be related to a cracked head.
If its under or close to 13 PSI hot idle, i myself would pass on that XJ.
That engine with that low of oil PSI is not long for this world IMO.

With 330, 000 miles on my 2k, i think 3 radiator replacements is probably just wear and tear except maybe for the 2nd one.

The original OEM radiator lasted about 290,000 miles.

The 2nd radiator an OEM Mopar lasted under 2 years before it sprung a small leak. Only a 1 yr. warranty from Mopar.

On the 3rd radiator now with a supposed lifetime warranty. We'll see.

I live out in the country with lots of bugs, big'n hard bugs which could be taking a toll on my radiators. The bugs are such a big problem i have to flush them out out of the radiator periodically and open up bent fins.

No front end or any car/car collisions, just a couple deer swipes and some A-hole who bashed in my passenger door at Home Depot ..thankyou PDR, all good as new again!
No ground (or electrical) issues, went through all the grounds.

Thats a good idea to check the radiator mounting bolts with the latest radiator. I don't need a 4th one. lol

 

I would say if you're go My to get an 00 or 01 then try to find a one owner. Also if it has a new radiator and water pump and thermostat and so on it's more likely it has been overheated. Or it might be their attempt in fixing a running hot issue or something.

 

Honestly i wouldn't buy a 00-01 because of the head problem the funny exhaust on them and the low pinion front diff.Id look 91-99 the most rust free and as virgin you can find and afford.

 

It seems almost like a hit or miss. I found mine with 184k on it and *knock on wood* it runs great, but my buddy has just under 140k and has nothing but problems with heat soak and his cooling system.

 

Rust would be my primary concern. I dont care for the extra 02 sensors and precats (if so equipped), nor the cylinder head, but id rather deal with all that than rust.

 

Kinda of the reason I bought my '00. Some surface rust issues, hood and roof, but pretty much solid. Kinda of cheap running but not really driveable also made me pull the trigger on her.

 

people don't like the 2000 because of the head and lp 30 up front.


i bought my 2000 with over 200k on it.. no head issues but i did replace the cooling system just so i know the condition of it.. and being i'm only at 3.5" of lift the LP isn't an issue for me..


my biggest concern would be rust. then check for cooling system issues. depending on what your build plan is the 2000 may not be for you.