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Old Oct 3, 2023 | 08:14 AM
  #16  
Sworvoo's Avatar
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From: Alberta Canada
Year: 2000
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Originally Posted by awg
I have done a few roof rust repairs. Its essential to remove all corrosion that is FeO4 that physically expands with water and air

I use an angle grinder with a wire wheel then rough stripping pad, this leaves bare metal, sometimes needs a couple of goes, I will dremel pits

then rust convertor, and its much better if you can use 2 pac products to paint, as they dry by chemical catalyzing, not evaporation of thinners, which leaves pores

Using porous single pac products allow the air and moisture to react with any remaining rust, and it bubbles back up

2 pac has some pores, but its a tiny fraction. You need a compressor and spray gun
Thanks for this. I always wondered why everyone was so adamant about removing all the rust. Seemed like people we just repeating what they heard from others. But the expansion contraction and softness making it vulnerable to water pathways makes so much sense. I always figured that despite what people are always going on about, if it was sealed it would be fine.
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Old Oct 9, 2023 | 09:29 PM
  #17  
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From: Alberta Canada
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So the roof repair continues. I don’t know how many hrs I spend with the ole angle grinder. Long enough that once I stopped my hands felt like they were vibrating and pins and needles at the same time. So due to the time it took, the hands that wanted to fall off, and just wanting to be done, this is what I got. If you look quick it looks pretty good right




Now this is what I was dealing with. I used a “rust remover” gel after lots of wire wheel and 60grit. I used a paint that claims it is for direct to metal, no primer needed and will adhere to rust. I sure hope it is the miracle product it claims to be. I would really love it to last more then one year.

I will show the fiberglass repair when I do it.
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Old Oct 25, 2023 | 08:01 AM
  #18  
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From: Alberta Canada
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I used a “long strand” resin to cover the rust holes. I had to trim the rubber seal for the windshield to get all the way to the front edge of the room.




Then standard bondo and paint. So t look too close. I was running out of steam to perfect the bondo job. Paint sure doesn’t fill imperfections as well as you want it too.



It is snowing up here already and this is perhaps part of the problem. Gonna try some suction cup dent pullers and if that doesn’t work I suppose I can push the roof up from the inside.

I will give an update in the spring as that will be the equivalent of 10 years of corrosion for you folks in California
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Old Oct 25, 2023 | 11:55 AM
  #19  
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From: TX
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
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Awesome job man! Glad to see you went ahead and sealed it. My '91 suburban had a barn fall on the roof, rather than scrap it i went a cut a good roof of one at the scrapyard. We chopped off the old one, mig welded the 'new' one on. New paint job, now no one can tell. Easily quadrupled the value of that truck (and i mean it was worth maybe $2500 before the new roof). I've driven it from Texas to California twice now, and once to Longmont, CO and back! If you love your vehicle, there's really no job too big. Keep that thing on the road
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Old Oct 25, 2023 | 03:20 PM
  #20  
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From: Long Island, New York
Year: 2001
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Thats an insane amount of work but it all looks great...if your only issue now is the pooling of rain or whatever water...put an extra 3 or 4 coats of whatever on top. Im sure at 20 mph all that water will blow right off and what collects when not moving. the extra coats of paint will keep it from damaging the metal when your not driving. OR just run an extra layer of fiberglass or bondo to make taller then paint with a few more layers. Im sure the stock roof isnt as good as your new repair
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