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Uhh Car Won't Move?

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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 08:14 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by savagess2546
How hard are CPSs to diagnose/replace? The car started right up for me when I went to check the fluid. It seems that it's shutting off when too hot and when given time to cool down, it starts back up.

That's a common "CPS on the way out sort" of symptom.


Originally Posted by savagess2546
I didn't do any of the lift on this Jeep so I'm not sure what the P.O. did.

I'm sure what the PO did! He did stupid!

You need to figure out why that arm is hitting the oil pan.
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 04:29 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark
That's a common "CPS on the way out sort" of symptom.





I'm sure what the PO did! He did stupid!

You need to figure out why that arm is hitting the oil pan.
The track bar being too short for the lift causing the axle to be off center seems like the likely culprit. I'm just going with what makes sense. I don't have a lot of experience with this kind of thing since it's my first car/4x4 (granted I've had it since '09).
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 04:49 PM
  #33  
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The stock lines are as high as the joint where the tranny pan tube and dipstick tube join. At the front of the engine one turns to the drivers side. On the drivers side it connects to a rubber hose to the bottom of the radiator. The other one ends and a rubber hose connects to a long metal tube that's factory bent to lead up to the upper radiator cooler connection. If you have a cooler, plumbing will be more complicated.

The overheat on shutdown. Do you have a 16 lb radiator cap? Thermostat should be 195 with a jiggle pin at top. Any leaks? If the coolant boils and turns to steam then the gauge may peg. Coolant boils at higher temperatures with a pressurized radiator cap.

Multiple failures could cause no start. CPS is probably most common. But there are relays, shifter interlocks, fuel pump etc that could cause this. If it cranks but does not fire and you hear the fuel pump, I'd carefully check the CPS (or just replace it).
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 02:59 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by md21722
The stock lines are as high as the joint where the tranny pan tube and dipstick tube join. At the front of the engine one turns to the drivers side. On the drivers side it connects to a rubber hose to the bottom of the radiator. The other one ends and a rubber hose connects to a long metal tube that's factory bent to lead up to the upper radiator cooler connection. If you have a cooler, plumbing will be more complicated.

The overheat on shutdown. Do you have a 16 lb radiator cap? Thermostat should be 195 with a jiggle pin at top. Any leaks? If the coolant boils and turns to steam then the gauge may peg. Coolant boils at higher temperatures with a pressurized radiator cap.

Multiple failures could cause no start. CPS is probably most common. But there are relays, shifter interlocks, fuel pump etc that could cause this. If it cranks but does not fire and you hear the fuel pump, I'd carefully check the CPS (or just replace it).
I already have an entire thread devoted to the overheating issue and its still not diagnosed. The cap is 16lb.

Fuel comes out of the injector line vent at high pressure. Can't ever hear my fuel pump.

CPS seems like culprit. I had no spark when it wouldn't start then out of nowhere the spark came back.
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 09:03 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by savagess2546
I already have an entire thread devoted to the overheating issue and its still not diagnosed. The cap is 16lb.

Fuel comes out of the injector line vent at high pressure. Can't ever hear my fuel pump.

CPS seems like culprit. I had no spark when it wouldn't start then out of nowhere the spark came back.
Injector line vent?
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Old Jul 5, 2014 | 08:58 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Injector line vent?
I'm not sure what it's exact name is. There's a cap you take off then there's a tire valve looking thing, press it and it relieves pressure off the fuel system. Fuel was spraying out of that when I pressed it so I know fuel was getting to the engine.
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Old Jul 5, 2014 | 09:03 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by savagess2546
I'm not sure what it's exact name is. There's a cap you take off then there's a tire valve looking thing, press it and it relieves pressure off the fuel system. Fuel was spraying out of that when I pressed it so I know fuel was getting to the engine.
That's all fine and dandy, but if the pressure is too low, it ain't good. Use a gauge to verify fuel pressure.
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 07:37 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
That's all fine and dandy, but if the pressure is too low, it ain't good. Use a gauge to verify fuel pressure.
Well it's not a fuel pump issue because the issue altogether is intermittent. When the car dies, all power to the ignition coil is gone and at one point (while in the desert) I was smelling burning electrical. That's why I wonder if maybe the CPS just fried while out there. Could a sensor fry from lack of fluid?
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 07:39 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by savagess2546
Well it's not a fuel pump issue because the issue altogether is intermittent. When the car dies, all power to the ignition coil is gone and at one point (while in the desert) I was smelling burning electrical. That's why I wonder if maybe the CPS just fried while out there. Could a sensor fry from lack of fluid?
I don't think a sensor fries from lack of fluid. They're not liquid cooled sensors.........
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 08:23 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

I don't think a sensor fries from lack of fluid. They're not liquid cooled sensors.........
Wait...are you saying i can keep my gas gauge if i run out of gas? Dammit.
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 09:09 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by FruitSnacks
Wait...are you saying i can keep my gas gauge if i run out of gas? Dammit.
Absolutely.
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 02:10 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
I don't think a sensor fries from lack of fluid. They're not liquid cooled sensors.........
I'm just grasping at straws. Trying to figure out why so much went wrong all at once.
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Old Jul 11, 2014 | 04:27 PM
  #43  
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So I haven't gotten a yes or no about rerouting the transmission line. Do you think I should relocate it or just baby the thing until I get a new track bar or something?
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Old Jul 11, 2014 | 11:25 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by savagess2546
So I haven't gotten a yes or no about rerouting the transmission line. Do you think I should relocate it or just baby the thing until I get a new track bar or something?
Still gonna hit the pan. Drive gently until you get the geometry right.
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 07:00 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Radi
Still gonna hit the pan. Drive gently until you get the geometry right.
What do I need to look for as to what's causing this? I don't want to pay a mechanic a fortune just to tell me I need to replace this or that and adjust something. I'm planning on replacing the track bar at the very least. What's the best way to make sure the front axle is centered under the car? What I mean is what's the best reference points to measure to ensure it's centered.
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