Hey all, I have a blinker/turn signal issue. Problem started last week. Blinker doesn't click when initiating. I figured relay was going out, especially since it is apparently random. It has been getting worse, to the point where I am manually clicking the blither.
I thought this would be simple. I went to NAPA and bought a new flasher unit. Installed it right there at NAPA, same issue. Awesome... Jeep is gonna make me learn again! Drove home, scratched my head, turned blinker on and walked around Jeep. Signals are, in fact, working, but at warp speed! Checked both left and right. Same issue, except that my passenger rear isn't working. Looks good, but now working. Tried flashers, nothing... Nothing at all. Ok, says me, it's gotta be the fuse! Pulled 15A fuse, looks good. But, in the spirit of testing and thoroughness, pulled the 15A from radio and put it in turn signal place. Same issue! So, if it's not the flasher, and it's not the fuse, what could be causing this issue? As always, thanks for the help!

BTW, I did a search of the forums and came up empty, nothing that fit my issue.

 

Do the hazards work properly?

There are 2 flashers in there. Did you replace the correct one?

 

Hazards are not working. At all. At least blinkers are working in their warp speed fashion

 

Swap the flashers and report back.

 

Ok, where to start? Flasher... Changed it, got absolutely nothing. No blinkers, no e-flashers. Worried me starts jeep, turns on headlights, tries everything again. Headlights, marker lights come on. Go to rear, and find the first pic... This is a hot shorting wire... PO mistakes really starting to grind my gears. I make an adjustment, swap over the flasher relay, everything turns on. Blinkers as normal. Briefly. In a few moments, less than a minute, it resumes the previous problem. Took out the e-flashers, it is very hot. I don't think this is normal. I think there is another wire shorting somewhere else. This only accelerates something I have been planning, which is running all wires in a new look along the roof gutter. I will take my multimeter and see what I can find. Also will purchase new e-flashers and see if this one is just failing. Thanks for the suggestion cruiser! Helps to narrow down things. Genius! Let's just strip some insulation, and take this yellow wire and just wrap it around! For reasons that are unclear...?
I'm confused... What is the purpose? Why would they just leave it like that? ....
With exposed conductors...

 

There are folks who can bend a digging bar in a sand pile. Like the PO.

 

Yeah, trust me, the more I dig into this, the more hidden surprises I find. I paid $1200 for this jeep, and while I don't regret it, I should have tried for a lower price. Anyway, I guess now this thread will transition from a mostly advice seeking thread to a more progress based thread.
my next steps arerunning new factory coded wire for the rear end and isolating what is exposed. Also going to get new flasher relay on payday. Will keep everyone posted!
Oh, before I forget, instead of dosconnecting the old rear harness and connecting the new harness, a line at a time, I am actually in the process of developing a new fuse block. It should go well with my new dash. For the wiring, that means I will actually be using my new fuse block on the rear harness first!! It should be as simple a process as running the lines, connecting them to the new fuse block, full termination up to the devices powered by the new block. Then, pull the applicable fuses or properly dead end the cables, connect the new cables, attach power to the new block, and test. This will be a great experience for me. I will be sure to share it all with you.

 

So I think I have figured it out. Improper wiring both rear sides. I think they rednecked a trailer harness. Blinkers and break lights have new wires running from them. Gonna have to cut them out, solder the original wires back together, and heatshrink it for now

 

So this is what I did:
disconnected battery and soldered all but the brake wire. The PO had simply cut out insulation and wrapped connecting wire around the blinkers on both sides and brake wire. The blinkers had over an inch of insulation cut away, so I cut and soldered them together. All work gets covered with electrical tape.
The edit is due to me taking lots of pics to upload, but the uploader keeps messing up. So you guys get the short version without pics!

Unfortunately, this repair of exposed wires did not actually fix anything. Peace of mind, check. Blinkers working correctly? Nope. Leaning more towards that flasher relay now that all electrical connections are secure and sound.

 

How to properly dead end cables. Heat shrink, fold over excess heatshrink, put small shrink band around excess
Passenger blinker
Driver's blinker. Always use heatgun, much safer
Solder kept to minimal. No need for gobs
Tape for brake line

 

Properly done crimping is superior to properly done soldering. That's why it's mil-spec for many applications. Also used in aerospace, including areas where soldering is specifically prohibited. Recommended for marine applications, though soldering is 'permitted'.

 

Actually soldering is preferred in many critical components aboard naval vessels. It is also the only approved method for splicing cables (Sorry, it's my profession). The only real reason you see more crimps in naval applications is the positive controls they have. All crimps must be done with a ratcheting dye crimper, manual, or mechanical, crimpers are not allowed to be used aboard naval ships per ... Well I won't go down that road.

Anyways I figured it out. It was my emergency flasher unit. Just changed it and all is well. No clue why that relay would cause that issue, but for future info, if your blinkers are on the fritz, check both flasher units and the fuse. I don't know if anyone can relate, but there ya go.