So my 2001 XJ has been leaking a decent amount of transmission fluid since I bought it in October. I have been reading on this and other forums and watching YouTube videos about the subject. Upon examination I noticed that my transmission cooling line was leaking from the fitting on the transmission itself. I believe it is the return line. So I got a replacement fitting and decided today to finally tackle the job since I have good weather here today and free time. The actual line itself didn't seem to be in too bad of shape, needing replacement down the road but not today. So I go to take the fitting off and I had a heck of a time with that. The plastic was all melted and ceased into the metal. With a lot of squeezing and pulling I finally got the line out, but the end snapped. So now I need to replace the line. No big deal right. Well

This is the rubber hose im trying to disconnect.

This is the quick disconnect tool I purchased today.

Thats the new fitting i have screwed into the transmission. Its the one that's closest to the rear of the vehicle.
I follow the line up towards the radiator and see that there's a rubber hose connected to this end and then another metal line on the other end of the rubber hose. Here's where I really have a problem. Apparently I needed a 3/8 quick disconnect tool, so I went and got one from the parts store down the street. I still can't get the thing disconnected. I don't know how to use the tool or remove the hose. There's some stuff on YouTube about this problem, but nothing specific to the xj that I have. I do not have the one with the plastic clips, that would be too convenient 🙄. So now it's dark and tomorrow it's going to rain and my vehicle is up on ramps in the backyard stuck where it is until I can get this problem fixed. Can anyone help me figure out how to get this line off without causing more damage. I really need this xj back because it's my only wheels at the moment. Also was wondering if anyone knew if I need to put an o ring on the end where I broke the line. I know the part has one on the end that I screwed into the transmission. But do I need to put another o ring in the actual line before I mate it with the plastic piece? I can't tell if the original one had an o ring because I can't get the broken end out of the old one. One final question regarding this matter, does anyone know the part number of the transmission cooling line I'm referring to so that I can find it at the auto parts store. I've found a couple of different lines online and can't tell which one is which. Any helpful replies are greatly appreciated. I am new to this forum and to the world of xjs. Mine has 136,000 and was owned by my grandmother and father before he sold it to me for $2000. I love the Jeep and plan on trying to bring it back to it's former glory. I'm all about stock, nothing against lift kits but that's not for me. I just want a super reliable vehicle that can handle anything mother nature throws at me. Thanks for taking the time to read this and reply!

 

Up Date New image and new Parker #' 68HB-6-MI14

The hose clamps started to weep fluid after a few months - so I upgrade to Fuel clamps which have not come loose after 3 years!




The BEST way to deal with these is to place this leak prone design in the trash where it belongs. Best transmission mod: Parker 14 X 1.5 metric thread Hose Barb (Mfr# 68HB-6-MI14), hose clamps, about 3" of 3/8" fuel line. A small 6mm wrench to tighten the clamps where a screw driver will not reach. NO need to cut the lines.


Chrysler's bad design regurgitated by Doorman

Parker's fitting

installed - no more leaks!

 

Those clips can be real hard to get out if there is dirt and crud packed in there, preventing you from squeezing the clip ears in. Douche it out with some cleaner. You also might need to push in a little when you first squeeze the ears. I believe the new fitting has the o-rings
pre-installed?

Also, for other future readers. Be careful threading the new fitting in. If you cross thread it or tighten it too much, you can break the cast aluminum boss off the side of the transmission and then you're really screwed.

 

All good advice! And YES the Parker fittings come with O rings

 

i replaced that type with barbed fitting and a hose clamp at the cooler end. hate the stock set up. i will soon get rid of those junk fittings on the fuel lines.

what a royal pain.

BESURE TO USE FUEL INJECTION TYPE HOSE CLAMPS. do not use the perforated band type of clamp. Rubber may extrude thru the perforations, and thus loosen.

 

Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it. One question though. Should I be trying to get the rubber part to disconnect on the upper portion of the hose or bottom. I still don't fully understand how to get it off. Also when should I spray on there to clean the gunk out. I don't want to use anything that might hurt the actual hose itself. Thanks.

 

You can tell that that looks like a much better set up. Down the road that's something I'd like to do but right now it's my daily driver and I just need to get it back on the road asap. Also I do need to replace the line because the line busted inside the old fitting. I appreciate your input and advice! Thanks.

 

Rubber portion? In your very first picture, those are crimped connections which don't come apart. There should be quick connects where it attached to the radiator or trans cooler if you have one. For flushing out the connector, I usually use brake cleaner being careful not to get it on any paint. WD-40 or anything similar would also work just fine.

 

Thanks, yeah I used pb blaster on it today and got it off. Also connected the new line with no problems. Will be posting a picture tomorrow to show the replacement for anyone interested. Test drove it today and works great. No leaks!!

 

You're welcome. As for the tube broken inside the old fitting, You'll have to dissemble it to and see. If there's enough tubbing to engage the new fuel line on the passanger side of the break, you can simply cut the tubbing a little after the break with a small tube cutter. However, what caused it to brake? Are all of the tube supports still in-place?

Robsjeep is correct that fuel injection style clamps are better. However, we are not dealing with high pressure lines like a fuel delivery line and gas line is quite substantial in-spite of conventual hose clamps impressing the surface. I've wheeled my XJ over the wash-board dirt trails in Death Valley several times with this set up, and though one of my rear shocks shook loose, the transmission cooling lines stayed secured.

 

was the design for Parker's fitting changed? The fitting I'm finding does not look quite like this one.

 

I can't find it either. Did you happen to find the right one? Same part number shwos a completely different fitting

 

I think this is the part:
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/80258445

And the non-msc part number:
68HB-6-MI14

 

If you are looking for a fitting with a barbed end :