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Squeaking Distributor/Rotor Cap

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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 07:38 PM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by WomanNeedsJeepExpertise
What could that loud bang sound be? I'm scared. I only had one sip of wine, my head is clear, but that was a really loud bang. Should I just leave it alone?
Your call
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 07:43 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Timing out that what that was.
That was a really loud bang, could I mess up any of the components??? I love my Jeep! My son nearly jumped out of his skin! My daughter ran outside and thought someone got shot! I will get it right tomorrow. Please tell me if I need to pull the #1 plug from the engine or cap to check for compression?
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 07:44 PM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by WomanNeedsJeepExpertise
That was a really loud bang, could I mess up any of the components??? I love my Jeep! My son nearly jumped out of his skin! My daughter ran outside and thought someone got shot! I will get it right tomorrow. Please tell me if I need to pull the #1 plug from the engine or cap to check for compression?
Engine, and dought it.
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 07:49 PM
  #154  
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Have a good night...
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 07:51 PM
  #155  
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No 1 plug is one closet to radiator b4 ya ask...
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 07:52 PM
  #156  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Have a good night...
Happy New Year Free, you deserve the most in 2015.
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 07:57 PM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Heres what needs to be done when the red clears...Keys removed from ignition a must.....You'll have to remove the #1 spark plug and place your finger over the hole while someone turns the crank. You'll feel air pressure on your finger when the piston is approaching TDC compression. At this time the index marks will be approaching each other. Bump the wrench on the damper bolt until the mark aligns on 0. That's #1 TDC compression. Then remove dist align oil shaft at 11 and pin dist and install.
Wait, one last thing, how many times does the crank need to be turned before getting to #1 TDC Compression?
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 08:14 PM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by WomanNeedsJeepExpertise
Wait, one last thing, how many times does the crank need to be turned before getting to #1 TDC Compression?
When air pushes finger off no 1 hole bring timing mark to 0
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 08:22 PM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
When air pushes finger off no 1 hole bring timing mark to 0
Got it. Thanks.
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Old Jan 1, 2015 | 12:38 PM
  #160  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Really need to do the valve cover gasket next motors nasty....
That's my next project, but I've done it once before so it'll be good.
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Old Jan 1, 2015 | 12:46 PM
  #161  
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Originally Posted by Orlo
You have to understand the concept of how a distributor works within the timing system of the engine. Before you removed it, the distributor was lined up in sync with the firing timing of the engine. When you put it back in, you placed it in a different position which made the system out of sync. Now you have absolutely no reference on how to out the distributor back in without pure guesswork. That's why you have to follow CCKen's instructions on how to line up the mechanical components with the distributor placement to put the system in time. If these instructions have you baffled and you can't identify the timing components that you must manipulate, I would recommend that you have a professional do this for you.
Thanks.
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Old Jan 1, 2015 | 01:41 PM
  #162  
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Originally Posted by CCKen
Cool, but know this: The index mark on the vibration damper aligns with the zero "0" mark on the timing chain cover twice. Once when #1 piston is at the top of its compression stroke and again when #6 piston is at the top of its compression stroke. Just because you have the damper index mark aligned with the zero mark doesn't mean you are at #1 TDC. You must establish that the #1 piston is at the top of its compression stroke.
CCKen, I finally understand all of this! BUT one thing, after getting to #1 TDC, clarification, do I simply use the pin punch if the rotor lands in position at cylinder 1 or do I remove and re-install, utilizing the pin punch, 11 o'clock, 1 o'clock, 5 o' clock replacement system?
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Old Jan 1, 2015 | 01:45 PM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by CCKen
The mark on the crankshaft vibration damper is a slot cut into the edge of the damper (see pic in the thread). It won't have the outline like in the pic - you do that, after you find it. You'll have to feel around the edge of the damper to find it, then rotate the crank into position to mark it. If you have the fan removed, you can slowly rotate the crankshaft until you see the slot. Now mark it, like in the pic. Unfortunately you've removed the distributor without establishing it was set to #1 cylinder/piston being at top dead center of its compression stroke, so you could go back http://youtu.be/bdrEgWvlAGc with the replacement distributor pinned at #1 using the pin punch. Now you have to establish that #1 piston is at the top of its compression stroke, then proceed.
"Unfortunately you've removed the distributor without establishing it was set to #1 cylinder/piston being at top dead center of its compression stroke, so you could go back with the replacement distributor pinned at #1 using the pin punch"

This statement is throwing me off…
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Old Jan 1, 2015 | 02:53 PM
  #164  
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Remove no 1 plug from cylinder head. Place finger over hole. Have some one turn crank bolt until you feel air trying to push your finger off the hole.. Then turning very slowly line up timing mark on zero. The first time it lines up. Like this.....
Attached Thumbnails Squeaking Distributor/Rotor Cap-dscf2764-1-.jpg  
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Old Jan 1, 2015 | 02:56 PM
  #165  
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Then remove distributor install punch as shown here.....
Attached Thumbnails Squeaking Distributor/Rotor Cap-dscf2782.jpg  
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