WomanNeedsJeepExpertise

I have a now constant squeak coming from the distributor/rotor cap that I replaced over the summer while doing a tune-up, what could be the problem? Thanks.

WomanNeedsJeepExpertise

I'm thinking I should take off the cap and grease it up with some dialectic grease or WD-40??? What do you guys think?

Bobolink

Just before it fails completely, it'll start squealing constantly. Mine did the same, squeaked intermittently, mostly when cold, sounded like the serpentine belt. When I pulled it, it was so stiff you could not turn it by hand. Your distributor shaft bushings have failed. Of course, check it first, but I figure you'll be buying a rebuilt distributor and replacing it. But don't just pull the distributor......get things lined up first, rotor on #1 plug wire, timing mark on TDC on #1 cyl, etc. Procedures are on the net and on this forum, or in your trusty repair manual.

WomanNeedsJeepExpertise

Why a rebuilt distributor? So you're saying I need a new component? Nothing to do with the cap? Are new ones unavailable or expensive?

Bobolink

A reman is much cheaper than a new one (if you can even get a new one anymore), and should be just as reliable. The reman that I put in mine was about 5 years ago, and has not had any issues. You should be able to get a reman for about $50 plus core, or you just take your old one in when you buy the reman, and save yourself having to pay the core charge. Most stores have them on hand, so they must be in demand. I replaced mine when I was away from home on a trip, so called the local Autozone (which I don't normally use for parts). They had two in stock, so I grabbed one. A simple 30 minute job.


And no, I don't think it's the cap. There's nothing in the cap that moves and would cause a squeal

Bobolink

I just looked on Autozone's website and they show a new one for your year, $60, or a reman for $40. Both have a limited lifetime warranty.

WomanNeedsJeepExpertise

I looked and it said a distributor was $368.99, what is it called specifically??? Also, I prefer the Advanced Auto around here. I'll take a picture of the plugs to make sure I remember the order.

WomanNeedsJeepExpertise

Okay, I was looking at the wrong distributor, I'll take it off in the morning and bring it with me. I'm happy to soon be free of this noise, and get my lady patched up! Thanks!

Bobolink

Oh yeah, you don't need that Accel model.....

WomanNeedsJeepExpertise

Okay, I need to remove the auxiliary fan to the crankshaft vibration damper (cvd), right? But what exactly is the notch on the cvd? I get that I need to turn it, but I'm not sure what position the notch needs to be in to turn it to 0 degrees… or will I know based on the mark left on the rotor?

Also, I'm assuming I need to buy one of those silver sharpies, right?

Bobolink

You shouldn't have to remove the fan or anything. It's not the easiest thing to see, but it's easiest to highlight the timing mark from underneath the truck. If you still have a splash shield on there, you would have to remove that, but that's all. Once you get the mark highlighted with your silver MM or a piece of chalk, turn the crank by hand, clockwise as seen from the front (use a 19mm or 3/4" socket and breaker bar of even a ratchet). When the mark is at TDC with the pointer on the block, and the distributor rotor is at about 5 o'clock, you are at TDC on #1. Unbolt the distributor, and as you remove it, you'll see the rotor turn as the gears (distributpr and cam) unmesh. Remember how this looks, and position the rotor on your new distributor in the same position as the one ended up when you pulled it. It will turn back to that 5 o'clock position as you push it down and engage the gears again with the cam. If there's any problem getting it in, you might have to align the oil pump shaft slot with the key at the end of the distributor shaft. But if you don't move the crank while the distributor is out, it should slip right on back in and engage the oil pump.


To be honest, you really don't have to do any of the lining up on TDC. But you do have to position the rotor on the new distributor exactly where it was when you removed the old one. I just prefer to line it all up, in case I find some reason to want to turn the crank with the distributor out.

WomanNeedsJeepExpertise

I just hope I don't have to move that fan! It's a pain. Do you have an XJ? I want yo make sure the TDC is correct to prevent extra work in the future. Got the duralast gold from Auto Zone, Advance Auto didn't have it in stock. I'll get it done today or tomorrow, and report back. Thanks again.

CCKen

You may want to read through this thread:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/d...es-i6-2840114/

You don't have to find #1 TDC compression. Before removing the distributor, remove the cap and camshaft position sensor, reinstall the rotor, then rotate the crank until the timing marks match and the rotor is pointing just past the #1 (like in the pic in this thread), verify the distributor is in time by inserting the punch or drill, then remove the distributor.

Leave the damper where it is, then install the replacement distributor as described in the thread.

WomanNeedsJeepExpertise

Thanks!

WomanNeedsJeepExpertise

The old distributor won't budge, should I use PB blaster or WD-40???