Squeaking Distributor/Rotor Cap
1. Can you afford to disable this vehicle in your driveway (I assume that's where you're working on it) and pay for a tow to a shop to fix this if you get to a point of failure?
2. Are you absolutely sure the noise you heard is from the distributor?
I see lots of expensive red flags here. Don't want you to get in over your head.... And wallet.
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Joined: Feb 2014
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From: north of the Rio Grande, south of the Red, east of the Pecos, west of the Sabine
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
Orlo's point #2 is well taken. My original suggestion was to check the old distributor once pulled before actually replacing it. But if you find that the distributor shaft is not binding, causing that squeal, and decide you don't need the new one, if you don't install it, you should be able to return it. If it is indeed the distributor that is squealing, there is nothing else on the distributor that could be making the noise other than the failed bushings. I don't understand your question about the position of your "rotor cap." A little PB Blaster might help in the removal. Gently tap the side of the distributor housing to help loosen it.
Last edited by Bobolink; Dec 21, 2014 at 08:46 PM.
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Orlo's point #2 is well taken. My original suggestion was to check the old distributor once pulled before actually replacing it. But if you find that the distributor shaft is not binding, causing that squeal, and decide you don't need the new one, if you don't install it, you should be able to return it. If it is indeed the distributor that is squealing, there is nothing else on the distributor that could be making the noise other than the failed bushings. I don't understand your question about the position of your "rotor cap." A little PB Blaster might help in the removal. Gently tap the side of the distributor housing to help loosen it.
Last edited by freegdr; Dec 22, 2014 at 05:33 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The rotor is pointing at #6 cylinder. If you have the damper timing marks aligned at zero you'll have to rotate the crank another 360 degrees to align the marks again. This time it should be pointing at the #1 cylinder position.
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Setting Your 4.0 at #1 TDC
With #1 spark plug removed, turn the engine over clockwise using the 3/4" front crankshaft bolt. You will see the degree marks on your front cover. Mark the 0 with chalk or white-out. You will see the timing mark on the balancer. Mark it with chalk or white-out. While turning the engine over, put your finger/thumb over #1 spark plug hole. As the mark on the balancer approaches the marks on the front cover, if you are coming up on #1 TDC, pressure in the cylinder will push on your finger. If there's no pressure, you're at #6 TDC and need to crank the engine over until you see the marks coming together and you get pressure. Set the mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the front cover.
With #1 spark plug removed, turn the engine over clockwise using the 3/4" front crankshaft bolt. You will see the degree marks on your front cover. Mark the 0 with chalk or white-out. You will see the timing mark on the balancer. Mark it with chalk or white-out. While turning the engine over, put your finger/thumb over #1 spark plug hole. As the mark on the balancer approaches the marks on the front cover, if you are coming up on #1 TDC, pressure in the cylinder will push on your finger. If there's no pressure, you're at #6 TDC and need to crank the engine over until you see the marks coming together and you get pressure. Set the mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the front cover.
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 716
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From: Charlotte, NC
Year: 1994 Jeep Cherokee Sport
Thanks guys, seems like I will be waiting to see what happens. I sprayed the base of the distributor with Wd-40, since it was stuck, and while taking those pics, I noticed the rotor looked worn out and had an extra one so I replaced it and the squeal/chirp has disappeared for now, haven't gone back to see if the distributor is loose from the Wd-40 since it's been raining for the last 2 days.
Will re-visit when the rain stops, or the chirp returns.
Will re-visit when the rain stops, or the chirp returns.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Charlotte, NC
Year: 1994 Jeep Cherokee Sport
Do you think it still needs to be done since the noise is gone?
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
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From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Edit: It's always a good idea to use a matched set of cap and rotor. I recommend using the NAPA Echlin cap and rotor set.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 103
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0






