The mark on the crankshaft vibration damper is a slot cut into the edge of the damper (see pic in the thread). It won't have the outline like in the pic - you do that, after you find it.

You'll have to feel around the edge of the damper to find it, then rotate the crank into position to mark it. If you have the fan removed, you can slowly rotate the crankshaft until you see the slot. Now mark it, like in the pic.

Unfortunately you've removed the distributor without establishing it was set to #1 cylinder/piston being at top dead center of its compression stroke, so you could go back in with the replacement distributor pinned at #1 using the pin punch.

Now you have to establish that #1 piston is at the top of its compression stroke, then proceed.

 

Howdy all...... young lady, you have now cranked the engine, so the rotor is going to be in a different position, but that's okay. I'm assuming that you never cranked the engine with the dizzy removed. So now we work with it from where it presently sits. It does look like from your previous pictures that you had it in the right position to start with (didn't look that way at first, which is why freegdr said to move one tooth clockwise). I agreed with freegdr's assesment of its position, but in subsequent photos, it now appears to be too far clockwise and needs to go back CCW one tooth. So regardless of where the rotor is pointing now, pull that dizzy up real easy, while simultaneously putting some CCW pressure on the rotor, and turn it CCW just a little as soon as the gears disengage, realizing, as I'm sure you've figured out by now, that the rotor will turn as you lift the dizzy and the helical gears are disengaging. So don't worry about the rotor turning as you lift it or push it back down, just be sure to turn it just enough to slip it back down after moving only one tooth. Now, if by chance, you DID crank the engine with the dizzy removed, then we have to go with CCKen's method of reestablishing a position based on TDC on the power stroke.


My question here may seem like I'm asking something that would have obviously been done, but nothing should be overlooked. Did you plug the cam position sensor wire back in? Are your spark plug cables in the right position and right order (I don't know if you removed them from the cap or not)?


I'm sorry you're having such a time with this. It is difficult for any of us, no matter how familiar with the engine or how proficient at working on it, to be able to describe exactly what to do in a way that's understandable to a novice. If everything is hooked up (and don't forget any wires that might have inadvertantly been disconnected during this endeavor) your engine should at least try to fire, even if the dizzy is off by a tooth.

 

I did not crank the engine with the dizzy removed (I didn't even think to do that) and the plugs are in the the right position and order. I really don't feel confident about the TDC at this moment, that is why I'm trying to bypass that. Can I? I am having trouble getting the rotor back in it's original position. It is stressful! Either it's to far forward or back. When I reposition the oil pump slot and try to change the rotor position, the rotor moves to a place it doesn't belong. I started out using the pin and stopped because that makes the rotor position totally off from where it first started, and that's where it needs to be right? The original hole pinned was a half hole, and that's not working this time.

She's trying to fire but not firing, all spark plugs are good, and cam sensor wire is plugged in.

Don't I need to reposition the oil pump slot each time I pull it up?

 

Please tell me how to bypass this step, as I am totally discouraged right now. Is that possible? Please explain what pinned at one means. There are 3 holes and 1 half hole, the pin was originally placed at the half hole...

 

You have no choice but to follow ALL of the steps that CCKen has described to you. It's called "timing" for a reason. You have to put the distributor in sync with how the cylinders fire in order for your engine to run. You've pulled the distributor out and put it back in a different position. You have cranked the motor and moved all components from their original positions. You MUST Line up all of the operating components in an exact manner for the engine to run. You're just going to have to figure it out or get someone with hands on the machine to help you. No shortcuts!

 

I thought if I didn't crank the car with distributor out I could do it without adjusting the TDC, Freegdr and Bobolink are instructing me differently. I'm getting confused. Also, there is no primary mark on my crankshaft (there are 3!). I've been under the car searching for it and it's not present.

 

Don't be discouraged. Gather your thoughts.

The "pinned" comment was referring to the insertion of a 3/16" pin punch or drill bit (I prefer a punch) in the distributor alignment hole in the distributor plastic ring that the camshaft position sensor pulse ring is mounted to. There's only one hole in the plastic ring that is used for the 4.0 engine. It is shown in the pic below. The pin punch should go through the alignment hole and down through a companion hole in the base of the distributor.



This pic shows the distributor in place at #1 top dead center with the pin punch in place. The modified distributor cap you see in this pic is a tool I made from an old distributor cap. I marked the cylinder positions on the modified cap and placed a mark at each cylinder position TDC. I use these marks for establishing TDC at cylinders I want to check lifter preload and torquing the rocker cap scews - you do not have to be concerned with this though.



Here's another pic with the pin punch installed - without the modified cap.

 

There's onlky one (1) index mark on the crankshaft vibration damper, not three.

Pic shows the slot cut in the edge of the damper.



Pull the bloody electric fan!!! Now you can see it.

 

You have to understand the concept of how a distributor works within the timing system of the engine. Before you removed it, the distributor was lined up in sync with the firing timing of the engine. When you put it back in, you placed it in a different position which made the system out of sync. Now you have absolutely no reference on how to out the distributor back in without pure guesswork. That's why you have to follow CCKen's instructions on how to line up the mechanical components with the distributor placement to put the system in time. If these instructions have you baffled and you can't identify the timing components that you must manipulate, I would recommend that you have a professional do this for you.

 

Ok, I found it but I'm having a time removing this fan. It's new and was a pain to get in, since they've added a bolt to it and I can't get it around the power steering pulley. Please bare with me. Any tips on how to get it out???

 

Got it! Now turn the crankshaft clockwise until the index mark hits "0" ...

 

Yes stop at zero....this may have to be done again so do not reinstall fan. Then remove the dist . Were gonna have to turn the oil pump drivr with a big screw driver to 11 o clock position. Now we wanna insert some thing in the whole in dist as pictured above. then we slip dist in and bolt down . Reinstall all other dist parts . Do not reinstall fan...this video shows what needs to be done . Now if it dont start and back fires dont be scared it just means its 180 degrees out . We will walk you thru that later if needed.....Pay attenion at 1;30 seconds on...

 

Once motors been cranked over its gonna be better to do it on zero.

 

Are ya little less confused now ?

 

Cool, but know this:

The index mark on the vibration damper aligns with the zero "0" mark on the timing chain cover twice.

Once when #1 piston is at the top of its compression stroke and again when #6 piston is at the top of its compression stroke.

Just because you have the damper index mark aligned with the zero mark doesn't mean you are at #1 TDC.

You must establish that the #1 piston is at the top of its compression stroke.