Spark Plugs
95' Jeep Cherokee 4.0L 4WD
How often should spark plugs be replaced? Had mine done about 5 years ago. Was thinking about replacing the spark plugs, wire set, distributor cap and rotor. Thoughts?
How often should spark plugs be replaced? Had mine done about 5 years ago. Was thinking about replacing the spark plugs, wire set, distributor cap and rotor. Thoughts?
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,150
Likes: 1
From: Nashville, TN
Year: 1997, 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
It's probably time to get yours done. Mileage is the real factor but assuming at least 10K a year, you are due.
Champion Copper plugs gapped to .035, decent quality wireset and cap.
Don't fall for the fancy 18 element, unobtainium plugs. Good ole coppers work best in these engines.
Champion Copper plugs gapped to .035, decent quality wireset and cap.
Don't fall for the fancy 18 element, unobtainium plugs. Good ole coppers work best in these engines.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by xjsnake
It's probably time to get yours done. Mileage is the real factor but assuming at least 10K a year, you are due.
Champion Copper plugs gapped to .035, decent quality wireset and cap.
Don't fall for the fancy 18 element, unobtainium plugs. Good ole coppers work best in these engines.
Champion Copper plugs gapped to .035, decent quality wireset and cap.
Don't fall for the fancy 18 element, unobtainium plugs. Good ole coppers work best in these engines.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 720
Likes: 1
From: vanburen
Year: 1995 &2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
x3 dont waist you money on them platnium plugs there worthless in these engines lol. I would go for oem plugs as well thats what i run with msd wires and cap and rotor,coil
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 12,367
Likes: 23
From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
The owners manual states that the plugs should be replaced every 30k miles. Plain ol' Champions or Autolites will work perfectly fine.
CF Veteran




Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 5,841
Likes: 117
From: In the middle of Minnesota!
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I go no more than 30k on copper plugs. And copper plugs are all you need on any XJ
87-99: Champion copper
00-01: NGK copper is my favorite with the distributorless ignition. Some guys have good luck with Autolite.
87-99: Champion copper
00-01: NGK copper is my favorite with the distributorless ignition. Some guys have good luck with Autolite.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by tjwalker
I go no more than 30k on copper plugs. And copper plugs are all you need on any XJ
87-99: Champion copper
00-01: NGK copper is my favorite with the distributorless ignition. Some guys have good luck with Autolite.
87-99: Champion copper
00-01: NGK copper is my favorite with the distributorless ignition. Some guys have good luck with Autolite.
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,579
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Plugs, wires, cap and rotor every 30K. Use good quality wires like Napa Belden and dizzy cap and rotor that have brass, not aluminum contacts.
Good time to clean the throttle body and IAC also.
Good time to clean the throttle body and IAC also.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by cheetos
whats the best way to clean the throttle body and IAC?
The IAC for your year might be next to map sensor different from my 01 which is held on my two torx screws to the right of te TB. You need to be careful with the IAC. I just sprayed mines down and carefully wiped it with a cloth your don't wanna damage it
Edit- anyone else can go more into details I k ow I didn't go that deep. I also have pics on my build thread when I cleans mine. Also check out seafoaming your jeep
CF Veteran




Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 5,841
Likes: 117
From: In the middle of Minnesota!
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The Idle Air Control (IAC) is mounted on the back of the throttle body. (front for 87-90) The valve controls the idle speed of the engine by controlling the amount of air flowing through the air control passage. It consists of a stepper motor that moves a pintle shaped plunger in and out of the air control passage. When the valve plunger is moved in, the air control passage flows more air which raises the idle speed. When the valve plunger is moved out, the air control passage flows less air which lowers the idle speed. Over time and miles, the IAC can get carboned up which can have an adverse affect on idle quality. Cleaning the IAC may restore proper function and is an easy procedure to perform and good preventive maintenance so it is never a bad idea.
CLEANING THE JEEP 4.0 IDLE AIR CONTROL
Remove the air filter cover, associated hoses and the rubber boot that goes from the air filter cover to the throttle body. Remove the IAC with a torx driver (2 bolts; one can be kind of hard to get to)
“Gently” wiggle out the IAC from the throttle body. Gasket on the IAC can be re-used if it is not damaged
Clean the IAC with a spray can of throttle body cleaner; inexpensive and available at any place that sells auto parts. Throttle body cleaner is recommended rather than carburetor cleaner as it is less harsh, safe for throttle body coatings and is best for this task. Use cleaner, a rag and a toothbrush and or Q-Tips. Be gentle; don’t twist or pull on the pintle that protrudes from the IAC as it is fragile and you could damage it.
Thoroughly spray clean and flush where the IAC seats in the throttle body with the same spray cleaner
It is also a good idea to clean the entire throttle body itself, the butterfly valve inside of the throttle body and all associated linkage as long as you have things disassembled
Reinstall IAC and check idle quality
CLEANING THE JEEP 4.0 IDLE AIR CONTROL
Remove the air filter cover, associated hoses and the rubber boot that goes from the air filter cover to the throttle body. Remove the IAC with a torx driver (2 bolts; one can be kind of hard to get to)
“Gently” wiggle out the IAC from the throttle body. Gasket on the IAC can be re-used if it is not damaged
Clean the IAC with a spray can of throttle body cleaner; inexpensive and available at any place that sells auto parts. Throttle body cleaner is recommended rather than carburetor cleaner as it is less harsh, safe for throttle body coatings and is best for this task. Use cleaner, a rag and a toothbrush and or Q-Tips. Be gentle; don’t twist or pull on the pintle that protrudes from the IAC as it is fragile and you could damage it.
Thoroughly spray clean and flush where the IAC seats in the throttle body with the same spray cleaner
It is also a good idea to clean the entire throttle body itself, the butterfly valve inside of the throttle body and all associated linkage as long as you have things disassembled
Reinstall IAC and check idle quality
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