Gottchya. Probly one of the jerks that got s-canned. Not too tough to guess.

 

Any body try this yet took my renix off the road to save cash. Kinda curious what its gunna do??

 

Cowboy up and be the guinea pig. Ain't gonna hurt nuttin'.

 

I haven't tried it yet way to cold to be outside...

 

So I had my TPS unplugged last night & she ran pretty good actually. But not quite as good as the new one properly adjusted though.....he he

Here's one I need to know about.......Is it a bad idea to run a renix without the ballast resistor? Was thinking about doing away with mine......

 

It was added mid-1988,and available as a "voluntary recall" for earlier models.

I've had five RENIX rigs, eliminated two ballasts when they failed, and none of that caused me any trouble.

To eliminate, make a short 14AWG (or larger) jumper lead with 1/4" male spade-type quick-connects, put it in place of the ballast, and seal the connections (heat-shrink is preferred.) Problem solved!

 

Could you define "failure"?
I'm having hot-no starts on my 89 right now. I removed the old BR the other day & the new one had an open back(non sealed). Just sitting there looking at the ribbon wire. She barely cranked & wouldn't run at all.......Put back the old one & been runnunig but IDK what a "bad" one does......

 

Randal, your Jeep needs a pretty "brisk" crank. Ain't gona' happen uniil maybe 300 rpm. The Puter' age is different than when we could push start it within a parking space.

Warm/hot intermittent no spark issues could be the CPS. Cruiser has a great list of stuff, including that found in my signature.



AC voltage CPS test; Small clips on the meter leads really helps.

Unplug the connector at the back of the manifold with wires going down to the bell-housing/cps.
Probe the two wires to the cps with the meter set on AC volts. (a 200 scale on mine).
Crank the engine and note the voltage. (jump it if your battery is low)

Mine somehow works with only .3 my wiring/grounds must be pretty spiffy. .5 seems to be a good mark. One article talked of .5 to .8. **Update, it soon failed. I installed Napa #css980 in my 90.**

If it's low you can modify the cps. With the next largest bit that won't fit in the hole, enlarge the hole's in the bracket just a tad. Now when mounting it's crucial to maintain firm downward pressure on it while tightening the bolts. An assistant could help with that from above.

 

Yea brand new MOPAR CPS and has been modified per Cruisers tips. I drilled out the upper hole to 3/8 & she's resting on the bell house now.

I've done all this.......(from a post yesterday)

Yep, found a bare place in a wire so I slid a heat sleeve over it after insulating & got it all wrapped up & adjusted. (4.85 & .84) Idles & shifts 100% better.

So to date in my rebuild of this thing I have replaced all the freeze plugs, rear main & timing chain seal, radiator, water pump & t stat, ac comp, heater hoses, vc gasket, plugs, wires, dizzy, ignit coil, bosch injectors, fuel filter & reg, front & rear vac harnesses, o2, IAC, TPS, CPS, MAP sensors.
I took Cruisers tips page & added 4 gauge grounds from NAPA at the battery terminal & firewall. Cleaned & shined up the connection down back of the oil dipstick tube. I refreshed ALL all the electrical connections.
I drilled out the upper hole in the CPS bracket to 3/8 & held it firmly down to the bell housing while tightening it back.
I put a new ballast res on today & the damn thing shut off as soon as it started. I put the old back on & she ran fine. The old one is a solid piece. The new one had an open cavity on the backside. What's up with that? I haven't been able to find a new solid piece unit.

And guess what? I still have hot no-starts. Can't figure it out. Nobody can. If it's at normal op. temp. , it will start right back up. If I wait 5 minutes I have to wait till it cools down completely.
I checked fuel pressure & it's 39 & 31. Pump sounds strong when I turn the key.

 

The ballast resistor was added only to quiet down the fuel pump. Bypass it with no worries.

 

The ballast was added in response to NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness) complaints in an effort to reduce fuel pump noise

(It did - but NVH in a Jeep? You want a smooth, quiet ride? Go buy a damned Cadillac! It's a truck, people...)

By reducing the voltage available to the pump slightly (by adding resistance to the circuit,) you reduce the noise of the pump. As long as it still generates the pressure and flow volume you need, this isn't a problem.

"Failure" means an open in the resistor - it's a wirewound, and it's possible for the wire to melt apart (it's a resistor, resistors generate heat. This is why the housing is ceramic...) and "open" on you - when that happens, the circuit breaks and you have no fuel pump.

Two solutions:
- Replace the ballast with a comparable unit (the specified resistance is stamped into one of the tabs.)
- Replace it with a segment of wire of like gage.

I go for the second option.

An "open" resistor can usually be diagnosed either by disconnecting the leads and using an ohmmeter to test resistance (should be close to what's stamped on one of the tabs,) or by unbolting and and looking in - if it's not potted, you'll see an insulator "stick" with a coil of wire around it, and opens are usually readily apparent.

 

Bypass the resistor, at least to test. Check for AT LEAST .35 ACV from the CPS. Do you have spark at a hot no start? Does she fire with a shot of quick start?