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Renix Myth Buster

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Old Dec 3, 2012 | 08:36 PM
  #1  
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Default Renix Myth Buster

Let's all go out to our Renix Jeeps, unplug the distributor harness connector, and see if they start with it unplugged.
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 11:05 PM
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My '89 XJ runs awful with the distributor plugged in. Why is that? and how may I fix this? Or should I? I'm assuming this is why it will not pass emissions.
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 11:41 PM
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^^ replace sensor

why would I want to do this?
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by darknezz
^^ replace sensor

why would I want to do this?
Cam sensor? It's a new Napa distributor.
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by davidap6
Cam sensor? It's a new Napa distributor.
Not a cam sensor in REnix. It's a sync generator for the injectors only. REplace it then.
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Not a cam sensor in REnix. It's a sync generator for the injectors only. REplace it then.
Thank you Cruiser.
So, because it runs better when un-plugged, it is the sync generator and not a harness issue?
Thanks again.
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 06:11 PM
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Update It was my connectors. After I cleaned them up, and plugged my distributor harness, she ran like she should. I went right over to the emission station and she passed. Yay!
Thanks again Cruiser for your input, and I hope that after reading your posts on Renix, I too may be able to conquer my own Jeep.
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by davidap6
Update It was my connectors. After I cleaned them up, and plugged my distributor harness, she ran like she should. I went right over to the emission station and she passed. Yay!
Thanks again Cruiser for your input, and I hope that after reading your posts on Renix, I too may be able to conquer my own Jeep.
What the heck did you do? What connectors? So a good connector refreshing isn't just an old wive's tale?
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 06:36 PM
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Damn renix jeeps and all their problems...


Glad my 91 has the bombproof OBD I.

Lol
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
What the heck did you do? What connectors? So a good connector refreshing isn't just an old wive's tale?

No wives tale here;

I cleaned up the connector harness that connects to the distributor, and another 5 or 6 flat prong connector near the battery, that comes from the dizzy harness, which was not very clean to say the least.
Thanks again, Dave
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by davidap6
No wives tale here;

I cleaned up the connector harness that connects to the distributor, and another 5 or 6 flat prong connector near the battery, that comes from the dizzy harness, which was not very clean to say the least.
Thanks again, Dave
Don't stop there! LOL. Do them all.

Last edited by cruiser54; Jan 10, 2013 at 08:16 PM.
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Don't stop there! LOL. Do them all.
I plan on it. ECM harness is next. All others are done, as well as relays.
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 08:17 PM
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I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight.
ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else.
Revised 07/23/2012
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 08:17 PM
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Cruiser’s Renix ECU Connector Refreshing
Many times when other fixes have failed, it becomes necessary to eliminate the ECU to harness connections as a cause. This requires removing the ECU.
Up under the dash, to the right of the steering column is the ECU. It is held in by three 10mm headed bolts to a bracket. It’s most easily removed using a ratcheting wrench but a socket will work.
Once you get the ECU down, unplug the two harness connectors from it. Visually inspect the connectors and pins.
Using a good quality electronics cleaner, liberally spray both of the harness ends and the ECU pin area.
Now, take a small pick or a dental tool and go to the harness connectors. Using the tool, tweak each female receptacle in the harness plugs so they will grasp the ECU pins more tightly.
Plug the harnesses back on to the ECU and reinstall it. I usually only use two of the bolts because the third is a bear.
Revised 07/11/12
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 08:36 PM
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Mine started ?? Is this a good thing
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