Great thing. You just proved that the sync generator in the dizzy of a Renix will not cause a no-start problem. Thanks for doing that.

 

No problem

 

Thank you Cruiser! The 10-pin connector up front I was not aware of.

 

My 87 did - took a minute to start (sounded like the timing was off while it was "guessing,") but it did start and ran just fine afterwards.

RENIX should start without a valid CMP signal - just takes a minute and stumbled until it gets running. RENIX will not start or run without a valid CKP signal.

 

By unplugging all connectors might I be creating a problem? My two-owner RENIX has 116,000 miles on it and has never been driven in mud or snow. Up until last year it had never been driven off-road. The engine bay is reasonably clean for a 23-year-old Jeep. Is there a potential that I might damage weather seals that are currently doing what they are supposed to do? Just curious, I'm not having any problems or anything.

 

It's a possibility - on my 99 some connectors do have integral rubber or silicone gaskets, for example the fuel injector connectors. I imagine that eventually they'll dry out, could be in a hundred years though lol. I'm not an engineer but I imagine that it'd vary depending on exposure to heat, solvents, and corrosive substances. It's good practice to hit those spots with dielectric grease to keep them sealed. On the pins themselves you can use a product like Gardner Bender OX-GARD or Sanchem NO-OX-ID Special A. These are used in the radio, telco, and electrical industries to promote a solid connection, and, being a grease, they keep out corrosion. I've used the Sanchem stuff a few times to bring rusty connectors back from the dead.

Since we're on the topic I feel it's important to point out that dielectric grease, which so many people love to put on the actual connectors, is an insulator - that's what "dielectric" means. It will keep crap out, sure, but it will prevent a good connection.

 

My 87 woody started. Wow always learning from the Renix Guru.

 

Can you bring her over? I thought it might be fun to check that.....

 

OBD-I? Yes.

Bombproof? Please. I've run across too many spurious DTCs, non-failed failures, and cases where OBD-I was just plain wrong over the years.

RENIX is my first choice - but I'm used to doing my own thinking, and I like not needing special tools for troubleshooting (an MT2500 is nice, but not strictly necessary.)

OBD-II is second - it's got a better track record with me than OBD-I, it was standardized by SAE (they took over from CA,) and that standardization lends itself to some fun accessories and such (ELM327 Bluetooth adapter and Torque Pro on my Android tablet is nice - being able to "read the ECU's mind" lets me spot problems before the ECU does. I'll probably start getting codes on the HEGO sensors in my wife's car in the next few weeks, if I don't replace them first.)

But OBD-I? I'd much rather take a hammer to it and be done with the thing.

 

Now that was very interesting... What's the next myth to be busted?

 

Did you try the first one?

 

Actually I haven't since it was done already

 

Unplug the engine side of your tPS and go for a drive then.

 

Why not?

 

Ignore him this is his third account in the last 30 min to an hour.