HA! I type so slow, once again a bunch came in while I was pecking away.

So Salad. I sold a spice rack! Shipping to Canada would have been over $30 Wtf? The sale kind of matters. Took allot of work to repair the dozer to yard the trees I cut up to the portable wood-miser mill, then season the lumber, build the shop, then design and make the thing. http://www.ebay.com/itm/150957453287...84.m1559.l2649

I'm 23.50 ahead though!

 

Uhhh if it was an Intrepid with the 2.7 then it was "burning oil" lol

Not bad, I like the wedges you used to keep the shelves in. From the front I thought they looked like sconces. Could be a place to get creative if you drill them out, put random Christmasy crap in them like holly or little elves. Yeah the magical border stuff is pretty annoying. You should see what it takes to get Jeep parts up here...

 

Yeah. I've got to take my FSM in, and I'm tired of being "profiled" as a "gross polluter," when there vehicles 10-15 years newer that actually do worse on emissions (per conversations with CARB, WRT my specific vehicle.)

And if one more "tech" stalls out my clutch on the rollers, I'm going to stuff him up his own ***** - after he changes my clutch! Whoever heard of a mechanic who can't handle a stick? It's not like my clutch is difficult...

I think I'll convert it to AWD, if I get a chance...

 

I have yet to try it, but read it can be tested by actually rapping near it with metal and listening for a change in the engine. Anyone who has twisted a disrtibutor would know what retarding sounds like. Anyway it's not good. Labored, muffled, unhappy. A loose rattleing bracket somewhere can trick that sensor into retarding your timing, as well as the 'pinging, or 'pre-detonation" it was designed for.

Down on the left side of the block, forward of the CTS I think.

 

Correct. The knock sensor is threaded into a blind hole, just above the oil sump rail and below the CTS. It's pretty much the lowest-mounted sensor on the RENIX engine.

A decent bit of metal (steel, brass, whatever - just not lead, it does need to be fairly hard) tapped against the block near the sensor should cause a noticeable effect. If it does not, either the sensor is shot or there's a wiring fault.

The knock sensor is the only one that is "along for the ride" - it only generates a signal when something goes wrong. Also, if you examine the wiring harness, you'll see the wires wrapped as a pair in metal foil - this is important! It is there to shield the signals wires against "crosstalk" from other circuits, which would cause false signals to be generated.

RENIX will run just fine without the knock sensor, it just won't know if there's spark knock, and therefor won't adjust timing to get rid of it.

After 1990, the boss was still present on the block (in most cases,) but went umachined. If you try to throw an HO block into a RENIX application, simply drill & tap that boss M10-1.5 for the knock sensor - try to not go through! The knock sensor merely requires a solid mechanical connection, it doesn't need oil.

For the knock test, it's usually easier to reach up from underneath. Since your ear is the primary sensor used for this test, you merely need to be where you can hear the engine run. Under it will serve.

 

if you think OBD-I sucked, stay far away from the 88-93 Volvos, Mecedees, and BMW's!!!!

Over the years I must have collected over 200 different data link connectors and software components just to watch them sink off in despair as OBD II began to rise from the depths of the Auto Manufacturers around the world. Truth is, the reason every manufacturer had their own was because up until the Government stepped in around 1992 and decided that "ALL" vehicles in the US have uniformed and understandable data formats by 1996....which in turn would allow for tighter Smog/Emissions Control as well.

 

On a side note....BMW is leading the way with 1,178 individual check engine codes! When you pull a CEL code on the 2012 BMW it will direct to the exact cause of the problem..............won't be needing any mechanics long after this, just part changers.

 

That would be quite cool. Would an AWD xj just use a 242 with it locked in full time or go a different route?

 

I think of Renix as OBD-0. They're fairly predictable and at the dealership, we learned their nuances. The original scan tool, if you could call it that, was a real POS. The MS1700.
Tough times back then. Crappo diagnostic tools, new technology, and more discriminating customers.

I remember the people whining about fuel pump noise before ballast resistors, AC droning noise before the muffler in the hose, intermittent high-revving at start-up, front diffs not engaging because of vacuum harness issues or bent shift collars, of course only on snow days, camber issues because the front axle housings were jigged wrong at the supplier, liftgate harnesses failing, exhaust pipes grounding out on trans crossmembers because they were made incorrectly, etc. And that's with only half a cup of coffee in me and not looking at notes or TSBs.

Still, I grew to appreciate Renix over the years and got used to them like an old friend.

 

And for you new folks seeing this thread, here's a list of the write-ups I've done or accumulated addressing the nuances of the Renix Jeeps. If you click on the link in my signature, you will find the write-ups and the post number will correlate with the number on the outline. All cheap and easy stuff, listed somewhat in order of importance.

　
Revised 11-02-2012
* means instructions have been written.
　
1-Ground refreshing*
2-C101 connector refreshing**
3-Connector and relay/receptacle refreshing*
4-Coil/ICM contacts*
5-Checking sensor grounds*

6-Sensor ground upgrade**
7-CPS testing and adjusting*
8-TPS testing and adjusting*
9-ECU connector refreshing*
10-Trans plug connector refreshing*
11-Throttle body and IAC cleaning*
12-Setting your 4.0 to #1 TDC*
13-Renix Distributor indexing**
14-Restoring throttle butterfly adjustment*
15-Rear main seal diagnosis*
16-Vacuum test for exhaust restriction*
17-HO engine into Renix*
18-Improving the instrument panel ground*
19-Headlight harness installation*
20-4WD shifting tips*
21- Renix EGR valve test*
22- Renix vacuum harnesses**
23- CPS timing advance mod*
24-4.0 Engine date codes*
25-Valve cover mod*
26- Snugging up intake manifold bolts
27- CPS wiring bypass
28- Setting base idle
29- Renix O2 sensor diagnostics

　

 

i believe i have read most of those

 

I'll bet you have. It's nice to have them all together in one spot where I can add to them or edit them.

 

Hell Cruiser and this info is the reason I joined this forum.
My 90 was heading to the junkyard till I stepped in and bought it.True story! Its my intro to the cherokee world.The elderly couple I bought it from towed it behind their motorhome,didnt figure it was worth anything because of mileage and no KBB value.Wouldn't pass az emissions,retirement center tagged it and was going to be removed.Owner wasn't willing to put a dime in it.
Long story short,I now have a new addition to the family.So what if needs a little attention,dont we all?

 

I agree it is very nice

 

Wasn't I PMing them to you one by one at one time?

Now it's like ordering Chinese food. You need a #1, #5, and for dessert a #11. Eggroll?