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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
I just installed a "new" engine into my 93 XJ. I took pictures when I removed the old engine, but apparently missed something. I do not remember where this wire goes to. It's black and when I touched ground, it sparked to high heaven! It connects to a plug that goes into the fuze box. I'm trying to avoid cutting all the wire loom off to see where it goes in to the box. I was told it may go to the starter, but I didn't disconnect any wires from the starter. I just removed them from the battery side and pulled the starter out. I got everything together and nothing happened when I tried to start it. The battery may be close to dead, so I'll try another one. However, the voltage meter when I turn the key says 12v. Does anyone know what this wire is and where it goes? Also, does anyone have a checklist of electrical items to check once everything is installed? I have two other connectors that are clean, so they plug into something. But, there aren't any other somethings disconnected.
I am planning an engine swap soon and extra bolts, or wires, is one of my fears for sure. But that wire doesn’t look factory to me but I’m not sure. If it is not cranking and a big wire like that I would lean towards the starter. But if it’s a constant 12v I dunno.
I still haven't figured out where that wire goes, so I'm going to remove the wire loom and see where it connects at the fuse box. However, I did find the starter solenoid wire and connected it properly. It cranked, but didn't turn over. Ugh!
I ensured it's at TDC, set the "dial" on the oil pump at 11:00, ensured the rotor is at 5:00. The other question are, do I need to prime to oil pump? When I set it to TDC for the distributor installation, does it matter which stroke it's on? What else may I have missed?
Yes if nbr 1 cyl id tdc but not power stroke, your 180 out. Simplest quick check is to diagonal all your wires on the dist, if it fires off then that was your issue. You can keep the wires in that config but it will confuse anyone who helps you and maybe you 2 years downline . Since its not running i assume you haven't broken in the cam or lifters yet. I would prime the pump and entire oil system. Its fairly time consuming to do it correct. I did mine by hand with a drill and old distributor without the cam gear ...cranking the engine 1/4 turn every couple of min. ...i was still on engine stand. For you...pull all plugs and crank with starter until you have pressure on gauge for 15-20 sec. Might want to do that several times to get everything wet
With #1 spark plug removed, turn the engine over clockwise using the 3/4″ front crankshaft bolt.
You will see the degree marks on your front cover and you will see the timing mark on the balancer. Mark them with chalk or white-out.
While turning the engine over, put your finger/thumb over #1 spark plug hole. As the mark on the balancer approaches the marks on the front cover, if you are coming up on #1 TDC, pressure in the cylinder will push on your finger. If there’s no pressure, you’re at #6 TDC and need to crank the engine over until you see the marks coming together and you get pressure. Set the mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the front cover.
Yes if nbr 1 cyl id tdc but not power stroke, your 180 out. Simplest quick check is to diagonal all your wires on the dist, if it fires off then that was your issue. You can keep the wires in that config but it will confuse anyone who helps you and maybe you 2 years downline . Since its not running i assume you haven't broken in the cam or lifters yet. I would prime the pump and entire oil system. Its fairly time consuming to do it correct. I did mine by hand with a drill and old distributor without the cam gear ...cranking the engine 1/4 turn every couple of min. ...i was still on engine stand. For you...pull all plugs and crank with starter until you have pressure on gauge for 15-20 sec. Might want to do that several times to get everything wet
As much a question as anything, but due to the Cam Sensor, I don't know how well it would run if you moved the wires around as you suggest... I believe it would cause the fuel injectors to fire 180 degrees off. Crank Sensor tells computer where in the rotation the engine is, Cam Sensor tells which of the two rotations per cycle that the engine is...
I'll accept that. Probably right, it wouldn't matter on a carb motor but its always best to do it right. I can't imagine what that big wire is for..it looks like its made to plug directly into the connector he has it but can't see what kind of wiring comes out the back of that connector