My strategy for preserving the a/c drier:
11-02-2018, 03:17 PM
#1
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My strategy for preserving the a/c drier:
I Think I managed to unhook the hoses at the evaporator and not kill the a/c receiver dryer. It absorbs moisture pretty quick you know and once the descicant absorbs moisture, you can't dry it out (that's what they **say** anyway). Sure ya can replace it, but I'm cheap.
What I did was use some clear plastic tubing from the hose of my argon/co2 welder tank to the inlet of the high-side a/c hose. It fit somewhat snug but not enough to hold major pressure. Under about 12 psi regulated pressure, I removed the low pressure hose from the evaporator first, capped-off the hose end, then unhooked and capped off the other hose (with some black tape stretched across the end). By doing it that sequence, the path of the Argon/Co2 was from the pump through the hoses and condenser and around to the pump and evaporator. The idea was to maintain a 'flood' of CO2/Argon in the system. Then stretched a couple more pieces of black tape tight across the hose ends. It doesn't need to hold pressure, but tight enough to hopefully keep air/moisture from getting in.
IDK, we'll see how it works. I'm in the process of removing the A/C box and fixing the foam seals. When I get it finished I'll put a tripple vacuum on it and maybe a 'holding charge' of Argon. Probably eventually get it recharged with R12. I've always wanted to try this. I have a couple other AC systems to service someday ...no reason to replace the dryers if they still work...
What I did was use some clear plastic tubing from the hose of my argon/co2 welder tank to the inlet of the high-side a/c hose. It fit somewhat snug but not enough to hold major pressure. Under about 12 psi regulated pressure, I removed the low pressure hose from the evaporator first, capped-off the hose end, then unhooked and capped off the other hose (with some black tape stretched across the end). By doing it that sequence, the path of the Argon/Co2 was from the pump through the hoses and condenser and around to the pump and evaporator. The idea was to maintain a 'flood' of CO2/Argon in the system. Then stretched a couple more pieces of black tape tight across the hose ends. It doesn't need to hold pressure, but tight enough to hopefully keep air/moisture from getting in.
IDK, we'll see how it works. I'm in the process of removing the A/C box and fixing the foam seals. When I get it finished I'll put a tripple vacuum on it and maybe a 'holding charge' of Argon. Probably eventually get it recharged with R12. I've always wanted to try this. I have a couple other AC systems to service someday ...no reason to replace the dryers if they still work...
Last edited by Jeepwalker; 11-02-2018 at 03:21 PM.
11-03-2018, 12:49 PM
#4
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The Crown ones are $67. I did see some cheaper ones on ebay for cheap, but haven't looked into them. I read where some of the R12 canisters when taken apart didn't have the oil hole in the right position. Maybe that was an issue a 'long' time ago, not today. But I like 'free' better. Maybe I went to a lot of work for nuthin'! (like I usually do 
)
But seriously, I wanted to give it a try in concept, b/c I have a couple classic car A/C systems I want to service where replacement parts are a lot more expensive, and look different than original. This was kind of a 'trial run' you might say. In these parts (WI) a/c isn't as critical.
Hey wait, isn't an 87 Cherokee a 'Classic'??!
)But seriously, I wanted to give it a try in concept, b/c I have a couple classic car A/C systems I want to service where replacement parts are a lot more expensive, and look different than original. This was kind of a 'trial run' you might say. In these parts (WI) a/c isn't as critical.
Hey wait, isn't an 87 Cherokee a 'Classic'??!
Last edited by Jeepwalker; 11-03-2018 at 12:53 PM.
11-04-2018, 08:12 AM
#7
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Year: My Jeep is a GMC
The R12 costs more than your ride is probably worth. 
When the compressor starts puking "black death" and sounds like your shaking a bunch of rocks around in a coffee can.
When the compressor starts puking "black death" and sounds like your shaking a bunch of rocks around in a coffee can.
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11-04-2018, 09:02 AM
#8
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Thanks, I replaced mine when I was doing some A/C work on my 98 XJ. The new accumulator wasn’t sealed up very tightly (it had plastic plugs that would keep out debris but not humidity) so I wondered how you’d even know how far along the accumulator was, desiccant life-wise.
11-04-2018, 09:44 AM
#9
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The R12 costs more than your ride is probably worth.
R12 prices have come down. Look on ebay. But yeah if you go to a shop, they'll nail you up the shorts for R12, and then you don't really know if it's pure R12. There's a lot of contaminated refrigerant out there. Then there's the question of weather a guy SHOULD even use it. It takes 19 years for freon to float it's way to the ozone layer and "A single CFC molecule can destroy 100,000 ozone molecules." (let's not get into a debate about THAT!). I used to work with a fortune 100 mfgr of refrigeration equipment.
To create an R12 system that doesn't leak, some experienced people indicate a neat course of action for people wanting to go to the extra effort:
1) Replace hoses to new barrier-type hoses. You can even cut off the crimp ends of your hoses and take your ends to a refrigerant shop and get new hose crimped on, for vehicles where hoses might not be available (and cheaper too).
2) Replace o-rings with newer better sealing o-rings.
3) Replace the compressor front seal (not that hard to do if you have the 'right' a/c tools)
4) Reassemble and fill under pressure with Helium and wait a week and re-test pressure to determine if there were any leaks out BEFORE adding the freon. Helium has the smallest atomic particle size next to hydrogen, and its cheap and inert. Don't use Nitrogen ...which most shops use. Basically, it if doesn't leak under Helium pressure for a week, it won't leak with Freon.
Of course NO shops are going to want to do the above .....but high-level fabricators and DIY guys could take these steps. I suppose then a guy would probably be better off converting from a newer 134a system ...replace all the parts or aftermarket ...especially if ya had yer Jeep apart and a doner vehicle. So while we're on the subject, are there any major hurdles to overcome, or is it a fairly straight converstion process? I'm talking about a complete system conversion from R12 to 124a? Do you need to replace hvac controls too? What years make the best conversion doners?
Last edited by Jeepwalker; 11-04-2018 at 10:02 AM.
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