puredrive

Anyone have any issues with the drier from NAPA? I replaced the condenser and the orifice tube, and since everyone recommends to replace the drier since it's cheap. I went ahead and replaced it. But now I can't hold vacuum. proceeded to do a dye test and I keep seeing a small traces of dye right under the hose attachment. The o-ring is brand new. And I rechecked that the o-ring was not pinched, and it looks good. Could the AC drier be out of spec?


Part Number: TEM 408568

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...568_0161505128










o-ring

md21722

It's actually an accumulator. If a vehicle has an orifice tube, it has an accumulator. If a vehicle has an expansion valve, it has a receiver/drier.

Are you sure its an active leak? I used a different accumulator when I changed my condenser and I noticed traces of oily residue on the surface of mine. I thought it was leaking. I sprayed it down with some QD cleaner once or twice and it hasn't come back. If you coated the o-ring with oil or didn't clean the flanges with brake cleaner, etc. that's what it could be. If not, I'd take it back to NAPA!

puredrive

I did not use brake cleaner but I did use purple cleaner to wipe it down.

puredrive

crap..I still see dye coming from the bottom of the fitting.

I used brake cleaner, because it does work better at dissolving the 134a& dye much quicker.

Also, I see a small leak at the back of the compressor. It's a relieve valve. can these valves be swapped out? or would it be better to get a new compressor. any suggestions?

The compressor is a 3 year unit that was bought new unit from Advance Auto. ( Sanden SD709 Compressor)

Firestorm500

I would remove and toss the old o-rings, then thoroughly clean the male & female fittings with rubbing alcohol.

Lubricate everything with the proper A/C lube. Make sure there are no burrs, lint, or anything else on the mating areas. Make sure everything is hospital clean, including your hands.

Carefully rejoin and tighten to spec. If it still leaks, then you might have a bad part.

Your purple cleaner and brake cleaner may be too harsh and are damaging the o-ring.

puredrive

Purchased an O-ring kit and it's new. I did add a little of pag oil -just to ease the part into the fitting. using gloves , just to be safe.

I'm spraying from the outside- just to wipe down. I am going to purchase a new compressor, since it seems that no one really sells that valve fitting.

and might as well get a new NAPA hose while I am at it.

JeepBountyHunter

I'm watching this, as this is something I'll do to my 92, after I scratch off the initial 'bucket list' of things to do here.

Firestorm500

Yep, it's going to be hot pretty soon. Might as well fix it right.

md21722

If the rear valve on the compressor is leaking, it's either because it's leaking or you had an over pressure. That valve opens around 500-600 psi. The high pressure switch should cut the compressor off around 490 psi. At least on 2000-2001 models. The accumulator lines are low side and should never be that high. Low pressure manifold gauges stop around 120.

puredrive

Good Idea to also replace the low & high switches? the high switch is still original. Low switch was changed 3 yrs ago by me.

Anyone know on what the lbs should be on that nut that attaches to the accumulator?

The AC hose and compressor are going in this morning. Lets hope that this fixes the issue and I get cold ac air. If not, I am thinking that it could be the blend doors.

md21722

If the switches are working properly I see no reason to change them. Many times they last the life of the vehicle. I am looking forward to hearing the outcome. Mine does not blow cold enough, but does cool the air, but I have held off on changing the compressor. I am pretty sure my blend door works fine. With the system running and actuator removed it takes effort to move the blend door by hand from cold to hot. Recirc seems to change the air flow but I'm not sure if there is a partial leak. Right now I'm getting 42-44F at the vents when its under 80F ambient and about 50F at the vents when its 85F ambient (even on the highway). I'd like to see some temperatures in the 30's like the FSM says I should see...

puredrive

I am reading up on the blend doors. How else can we tell if they are fully opening from side to side?

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/c-h...-sport-178439/

here is a video of my actuator..at least is moving.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eAHLNrhH-Hc

md21722

One of the easier things to do is remove the actuator and move the blend door by the shaft that connects to the actuator. On mine, which I believe is fine, there is quite a bit of suction on it so its difficult to move. I take this to mean its sealing properly. To test recirc, you can simply put a shop rag on the drivers side cowl by the windshield wipers. With fresh air intake, it will suck into the cowl. With it off, it won't do that. I suppose you can also do this by misting water or for those who are smokers see if cigarette smoke is drawn in.

The actuator itself you can test, repair, or replace. They can be had for as little as $30 from some dealers or $70 at the parts stores. Turning the temperature dial should result in movement from the actuator. It only moves about 90 degrees. Typically they get stuck/freeze up. When mine went it would get stuck on hot quite a bit.

Incidentially, my A/C may be fine. I got some fresh batteries for my IR thermometer and it reads as low as 28-40F on my dash vents while my $8 Auto Zone one reads 48F. I put $8 one in the freezer and its reading about 10F but my IR thermometer thinks its below colder. I wonder which one is right. ;^)

puredrive

So Fedex finally showed up and I uninstall the compressor and AC hoses in no time.

then I noticed that the compressor has SP-15 Oil. What is compatible with this?

The previous oil that is in the Jeep is Pag 100. does this mean I have to do a complete flush ?? And toss the accumulator?

md21722

SP-15 is roughly equivalent to PAG 100. Use PAG 100.