New compressor and drier
#1
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New compressor and drier
Hi all - new to the forum, first post. I have a 2001 XJ and the AC hasn't worked for close to 10 years now. When I short the low side port the clutch does not engage. Thinking about just going ahead and replacing the compressor and drier, then taking it to a shop for a vac and fill. Anyone have any thoughts on these Amazon parts? No reviews on Amazon but seems like a heck of a deal.Thanks in advance
Last edited by Willys55; 07-13-2017 at 10:04 AM.
#2
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You should type in the part numbers or put the link, then maybe someone can respond to the parts....
As for replacing 2 items on an A/C system and doing a vac and fill i do not think that it might be that easy... After 10 years i would probably flush the system, fill and add dye.. Let it run for a while and then you can see what needs to be replaced besides the 2 items that should be replaced.
As for replacing 2 items on an A/C system and doing a vac and fill i do not think that it might be that easy... After 10 years i would probably flush the system, fill and add dye.. Let it run for a while and then you can see what needs to be replaced besides the 2 items that should be replaced.
#3
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
I can't see any links in your post either, but check Rock Auto for part numbers and then check Ebay, Amazon, and Google for the best price
Replace any and all o-rings that you can, then assemble it and pull vacuum on it to make sure it's not leaking. If the vacuum holds, add dye and compressor oil, and fill the system with refrigerant
Look at the condenser in front of the radiator, if it is plugged up or dented up they are fairly cheap and easy to replace and you might as well do it while the system is empty
Replace any and all o-rings that you can, then assemble it and pull vacuum on it to make sure it's not leaking. If the vacuum holds, add dye and compressor oil, and fill the system with refrigerant
Look at the condenser in front of the radiator, if it is plugged up or dented up they are fairly cheap and easy to replace and you might as well do it while the system is empty
#4
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Year: 2000 and 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I can't see any links in your post either, but check Rock Auto for part numbers and then check Ebay, Amazon, and Google for the best price
Replace any and all o-rings that you can, then assemble it and pull vacuum on it to make sure it's not leaking. If the vacuum holds, add dye and compressor oil, and fill the system with refrigerant
Look at the condenser in front of the radiator, if it is plugged up or dented up they are fairly cheap and easy to replace and you might as well do it while the system is empty
Replace any and all o-rings that you can, then assemble it and pull vacuum on it to make sure it's not leaking. If the vacuum holds, add dye and compressor oil, and fill the system with refrigerant
Look at the condenser in front of the radiator, if it is plugged up or dented up they are fairly cheap and easy to replace and you might as well do it while the system is empty
good stuff...
Last edited by nujeepguy; 07-16-2017 at 01:06 PM.
#5
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There an HF standalone vacuum pump on sale for $90, so with 20% off coupon you're looking at about $72 which is pretty decent. I have one of these and it works well for occasional home use, though I'm sure it would not hold up long being used constantly in a pro shop environment:
https://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm...ump-61245.html
(As far as I can see this is not on the ever-increasing list of HF items excluded from their 20% off coupons.)
https://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm...ump-61245.html
(As far as I can see this is not on the ever-increasing list of HF items excluded from their 20% off coupons.)
#6
Senior Member
When my evaporator failed because crud collected against that part from the exterior air intake, I replaced everything. I got a vacuum pump and manifold gauge set for the service.
It doesn't make sense to guess at the problem(s). Evacuate the system, shut off the valves and see if it holds or leaks. Squirt in some R134a to locate the leaks. I use an electronic sniffer.
Plan on always installing a new receiver/ dryer when replacing other parts.
Always wear eye and skin protection during R134a service. Follow all appropriate safety procedures.
It doesn't make sense to guess at the problem(s). Evacuate the system, shut off the valves and see if it holds or leaks. Squirt in some R134a to locate the leaks. I use an electronic sniffer.
Plan on always installing a new receiver/ dryer when replacing other parts.
Always wear eye and skin protection during R134a service. Follow all appropriate safety procedures.
#7
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Sorry I guess the picture didnt work. Here is the link to what I was thinking...
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#8
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I can't see any links in your post either, but check Rock Auto for part numbers and then check Ebay, Amazon, and Google for the best price
Replace any and all o-rings that you can, then assemble it and pull vacuum on it to make sure it's not leaking. If the vacuum holds, add dye and compressor oil, and fill the system with refrigerant
Look at the condenser in front of the radiator, if it is plugged up or dented up they are fairly cheap and easy to replace and you might as well do it while the system is empty
Replace any and all o-rings that you can, then assemble it and pull vacuum on it to make sure it's not leaking. If the vacuum holds, add dye and compressor oil, and fill the system with refrigerant
Look at the condenser in front of the radiator, if it is plugged up or dented up they are fairly cheap and easy to replace and you might as well do it while the system is empty
My thought is that since this has been out for 10 years, Im better off replacing the major components to save $$ then bring to a shop to vac, test, and fill.
I've just done very basic work on it so far and am concerned that AC work is over my head, esp if its this old.
#9
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There an HF standalone vacuum pump on sale for $90, so with 20% off coupon you're looking at about $72 which is pretty decent. I have one of these and it works well for occasional home use, though I'm sure it would not hold up long being used constantly in a pro shop environment:
https://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm...ump-61245.html
(As far as I can see this is not on the ever-increasing list of HF items excluded from their 20% off coupons.)
https://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm...ump-61245.html
(As far as I can see this is not on the ever-increasing list of HF items excluded from their 20% off coupons.)
#10
Senior Member
When my evaporator failed because crud collected against that part from the exterior air intake, I replaced everything. I got a vacuum pump and manifold gauge set for the service.
It doesn't make sense to guess at the problem(s). Evacuate the system, shut off the valves and see if it holds or leaks. Squirt in some R134a to locate the leaks. I use an electronic sniffer.
Plan on always installing a new receiver/ dryer when replacing other parts.
Always wear eye and skin protection during R134a service. Follow all appropriate safety procedures.
It doesn't make sense to guess at the problem(s). Evacuate the system, shut off the valves and see if it holds or leaks. Squirt in some R134a to locate the leaks. I use an electronic sniffer.
Plan on always installing a new receiver/ dryer when replacing other parts.
Always wear eye and skin protection during R134a service. Follow all appropriate safety procedures.
The orifice tube is part of the condenser to evaporator liquid line
#12
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There are also good deals for vacuum pump / manifold combinations on eBay.
Plan is this weekend to change the oil filter adapter gaskets and muffler. A/C is probably up next.