Hey everyone like the title says im new to cherokees but iv done a bit of research, im sure not even close to knowing even alittle about them though lol. I just bought a 1995 xj with 115k miles the thing drive great everything works without a problem. The only issue that bothers me is that the engine "sweats" alittle no actual leaks but there is alittle oil build up around the valve cover, oil pan, and tcase. I have a feeling its mostly gaskets and planed on changing the valve cover gasket, the oil pan gasket and iv been reading that since im down there i should change the rear main seal as well. I was just wondering if there was any kind of suggested maintenance that should be done when buying a used cherokee to help have a longer life. I know to change all the fluids and the acc. Belt is brand new on the thing so that doesnt need to be changed but any advice would be great. Thanks

 

Hey, welcome to the site and congratulations on the XJ!

Leaky valve cover gasket is an extremely common, oil ends up dripping everywhere and it will make it look like everything else is leaky. Replace it with a nice Fel-Pro unit. I can't remember the name of it but it's silicone with a steel core. None of this cork business. With the valve cover off take a good look around for sludge, etc, and that will help you determine what you might need to do to the engine in the future. With that done give the engine a good clean with degreaser and keep an eye on it over the next few weeks. It's very possible that with only 115k your valve cover was your only leak.

As for other tuneup items:

• Sparkplugs Champion RC12ECC or NGK ZFR5N gapped to 0.035"
• Decent wires
• Premium distributor cap and rotor with brass contacts for longer life
• Air filter
• A decent oil filter. NO FRAM! Purolator, Bosch, WIX, Mopar, NAPA Gold, Carquest Premium, are great filters and well priced. NAPA Gold 1515/WIX 51515 are reliable filters that have extra dirt capacity over stock.
• Clean out the throttle body and Idle Air Controller carefully. Best to do this with them all removed, carb cleaner and a toothbrush are good.
• Inspect the vacuum tube running between the throttle body and MAP sensor on the firewall above the engine. Cracked or brittle will adversely affect power and fuel economy.
• Inspect and clean the CCV system, these are the hoses that run from the air cleaner to the valve cover, and valve cover to the intake manifold. The engine constantly draws a vacuum on the rocker area to suck up fumes. Over time the manifold side (back of the valve cover) will get clogged up with junk. Again carb cleaner and a paper clip should set things right.
• De-carboning the combustion chamber with water is always fun. Do a quick search for the process, tons of videos on YouTube.
• If you have an automatic, check this out: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/free-quick-fix-41821/
• A lot of problems with the EFI system in Jeeps can be traced back to poor electrical connections. Check out 1, 3, 6, and 9 here: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cr...x-tips-153657/ (#11 is the throttle body/IAC cleaning). Note those writeups are for the previous generation, but if you can put two and two together you'll be able to apply it to your model.
• Cleaning the Intake Air Temperature sensor is always a good idea (located on intake manifold)
• If the upstream O2 sensor is original, it's time to be replaced. It's almost done or nearing the end of it's lifetime anyway. The OEM is NTK and is very well priced at RockAuto.com

Fluids:

• Front axle: 80w90 or 75w90 API GL-5
• Rear axle: 80w90 or 75w90 API GL-5 for regular use, 75w140 for offroading or towing. If you have the TracLock limited slip differential there's a friction modifier that must be added. Most synthetic gear oils have this included.
• Transfer case: Any ATF is appropriate for the NP231, for the NP242 I think Dexron/Mercon or ATF+4 may be used
• AW4 Automatic Transmission: Dexron III/Mercon only, sold as D/M as the trademarked name is no longer licensed. Do not use ATF+4 in these transmissions despite what the parts nerds might say.
• AX-15 Manual Transmission: Any oil that is specifically designed for synchronized transmissions. When these were introduced any gear oil off the shelf was appropriate, these days the new standard is actually corrosive. Redline MT-90 is one of the best.
• Engine oil: Doesn't matter that much actually, do some searching and you'll find a number of holy wars on the subject. If it's cold where you are then 0w30, 5w30, 0w40, or 5w40 are good to run. Diesel oils are fine for use. If it's not cold, 10w30, 10w40, or 15w40 can be run in the 4.0L. Synthetic or dino juice are fine.
• Engine coolant: Flush this stuff until it's all clear, heater core is notoriously neglected on these. Run a 50/50 mix of distilled water and the generic green coolant. Remember the block's cast iron.

That's all I can think of right now... keep tabs on the rust! You'll learn a lot as you hang around some more.

 

New to you XJ....congratulations! They are a very solid vehicle. 115K is barely broke in for the drivetrain on your XJ..... Salad has provided you with some very good maintenance information as you get to know your new ride.

*Yes, you know that all fluids need to be replaced. Oil, coolant, transmission, transfer case, differentials. Fluids are the lifeblood of your XJ! Also get a new 195 degree Mopar stat in there and all new hoses if they appear old. Don't want any cooling system fiascos or you will have much bigger fish to fry like a blown head gasket, cracked head, etc.

*Tuneup. Always a good idea unless you have believable records of those parts being replaced recently. Fresh Champion copper plugs gapped to .035, quality plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter and check/replace the air filter.

*Start with replacing the valve cover gasket as leaks of course migrate down and are tough to troubleshoot the root cause. No need to replace the oil pan gasket or rear main seal unless you are having serious leakage after replacing valve cover gasket. A few drops of oil here and there is just your XJ marking its territory! Another source of oil leakage to keep in mind on the XJ is the oil filter adapter o-rings.

Good luck and enjoy your new XJ!

 

Excellent suggestions above^^ from 2 very respected members of this community.

 

Saving the link. Well written guys.

 

If every new XJ owner followed salad's and TJ's advice, the post count on this site wuld be cut in half.

 

^^ agreed....

much love shown for you here OP ... Excellent find also

 

Wow this is all an amazing information thanks alot guys. As far as the hoses they look like there in great shape its just the fittings on the ends that look a tad rusted. Theres no dripping that i can see its just like a thick feel oil build up at the bottom, thats y i assumed it was also the oil pan but ill defiantly change the valve cover gasket along with the tune up suggestions and clean up the bottom and see whast really going on. Thanks again guys for all that great info!

 

Sometimes I'll spray the cleaner/degreaser right there in the Wall mart parking lot, then go to the car wash. Gotta watch right away after you blast it clean. (stay away from the dizy and the manifolds. Common sense). If you go very far oil might blow around or drip so you don't really know where it actually came from. Keep a good eye on the oil filter adapter.

 

then they'd have to be banned !!!

 

Every old engine burns oil, if it doesn't it's empty. Defiantly check the floors and back hatch area for rust holes, look behind the body trim for more rust, check your u joints, linkage, brake lines, dry rot, noises, cracked or sagging leafs, make sure your bushings are tight, make sure the exhaust isn't falling off, lug nuts are tight, grease up the fittings, then repeat all that like every week and your vehicle will last a long time.

 

Well as far as the rust in the floor pans they were just replaced and resealed so thats good the underside has a quite a bit of rust but from what iv read thats common, the cat it almost rusted all they way through so i was thinking of replacing with straight pipe since the 95s dont have to pass emissions here in ny i was TOLD idk how true it really is but i was told that you get better gas milage without a cat, i just think itll be cheaper then buying a new/used cat, the fuel filter looks like its got quite a bit of rust as well might hold out till the spring on that since its holding up fine now, the exhaust hangers do look like there hang out by a thread though and as far as the bushings go they look fine. Everything basically looks like surface rust

 

Eliminating your cat is against federal law and discussion of such is in violation of the site's rules.

However, consider a $50 replacement from http://performance-curve.com/thunderbolt-spincat.aspx

 

You must have a catalytic converter for federal emissions laws. Talk of removing it is a no no in this forum.

 

^This, also I'm not sure about NY but if they are like PA, pre-OBDII (pre-96) vehicles are exempt from the actual emissions test but still must pass a "visual-emissions" inspection which checks to make sure all required emissions equipment is intact and you don't have any exhaust leaks.

For the surface rust hit it with some rust inhibitor paint, preferably something like POR15, Rust Bullet, or Chassis Saver. Rust-Oleum Rusty metal primer and paint (oil-based, preferably the brush-on stuff) is a decent option on a budget but isn't as durable as the above listed options. Surface rust isn't a major issue but needs to be treated before it turns into a major problem. Make sure to read and follow the directions for whatever products you use.