I only payed $1,200 but I spent another $800 for new rocker panels, passenger side floor pan, a patch on the back floor, and rust fixed on the door. I needed that for inspection. It would be ideal to find another rust free jeep and use my jeep for the engine, trans, etc. but they aren't all that easy to find around here without critical rust. I'll definitely be on the look out. I needed a vehicle asap so it was a good deal for me.

 

Thanks for all the great advice everyone. I now know my first priority is to replace the break lines whether this is a long term jeep or not. Then I'll have to do some further inspection on the rust and be on the lookout for another jeep in the meantime. I'll probably hold off on the leaf springs if everyone thinks they aren't too bad. (As long as I can carry two kayaks for the summer, I hope). Ill check out the suspension mounts and ball joints and start going from there I guess.

 

Don't break your brake lines.



Look into the cupro-nickel brake lines. Easier to work with than conventional steel lines, and more resistant to corrosion than stainless steel. Good stuff!


Get a decent bender, too. Something like this:





I have not used these, but they look like they would be great for close quarters work.

 

There is pre-bent brake line kits out there too if you dont want to fuss with bending your own. Also replace the rubber brake hoses too when you do new lines as the rubber will become the weak point in your brake system once new lines are installed. As far as the suspension goes, do you want to keep it stock height? or lift it? if you want to keep it stock get OEM replacement leafs and Shackles as well as new coil springs for the front. if you want to lift it look at a lift kit that has full leaf packs not just add a leafs.

 

Edited to remove quote.

No need to use a bending tool with the new nickel/copper brake lines unless you are trying to make the bends as clean looking/factory as possible. I started using a bending tool when I replaced some lines, but quickly found its just easier and faster to bend by hand. They don't kink like the old steel lines.

 

Agreed, the cupro is easy to do by hand, but you get a much cleaner job when using the bending tool.


Please don't use the QUOTE button just to REPLY. It just clutters up the board for no good purpose.

 

How's this project coming along? What did you end up doing about the front spring perch rust?

 

Well I ended up replacing the brake lines on both sides in the front with the help of my father using the "cupro-nickel" tubing. I ask replaced the front brake calipers and the internals of the rear drums + new pads all around. I contemplated replacing the suspension but have not decided it's necessary yet with the amount of rust. I haven't done any scraping or used any POR15 because the winters here are brutal and I have no heat in the garage. So far, I have had no problems with the jeep and I'm not sure what I'll do about the suspension if anything.

 

I had a ‘90 with rotten shackles in the back. I replaced them with some very beefy shackles with a few inches of lift. They rotted in a few years.. and that was 1/2” material!

 

I have a ‘98 as a winter driver on which I have performed all the work you have done/will need to do. I also reside in NE, mostly, and I know well the damage road salt can cause to vehicles. Honestly, yours doesn’t look structurally detrimental, as shown.

At least you have an indoor area to work on it, but I know an unheated garage is difficult to work in when the temps are in the teens 😂.

Use heat on all nuts/bolts. MAP gas works fine. Really heat those leaf spring bolts, let them cool. You may need several cycles of heat/cooling, and PB Blaster inbetween cycles can help. As I did, you may find your existing leaf springs are broken, the bolts are rusted to the bushing sleeves, shackles will need replacing and the rear shock upper mounts will likely be a challenge. Damage to these components can contribute to the noise you say you hear while driving over bumps.

As you remove parts, wire brush mounting areas, brackets, etc and rust treat as mentioned above. Even just several coats of brush-on rustoleum is good, after rust removal.

Also, research bar pin eliminators for the shocks. Especially for the rear (upper). If you’re lucky enough to remove the stock mounting bolts without breaking them this time, the BPEs will make the job easier next time.

One last thought: anti-seize grease. Lots of it!

Have fun!

My Winter Driver:

 

Will this eventually be a project that you want to build up? If so take your time and do it right.

 

Did you just box and seal the lower rear quarters?

 

I’m guessing that question is for me.

I don’t want to hijack this thread, so please pm me with any other questions about my rig.

Yes, when I removed the rear bumper ends I discovered the lower rears were gone. I cut out all the rust and made some pans out of some galvy I had. Riveted in with sealant everywhere. I know water is coming in through those silly rubber tail light bottom mounts, so those will get sealed up too.

Again, please direct future questions about my rig to me directly.

Thank you.

 

Yes. It was. Thank you for the response. I was considering the same thing but just for added clearance. I will post pics soon.