Vermonster00

Backstory:
Before I start, I'm new to this forum and at 18 years old, I'm new to working on cars too. I don't know as much as I should, so bear with me please. I've searched this forum and haven't found the answers to my questions exactly when it comes to this. I just bought my 2000 with 152k miles. I replaced the rocker panels and passenger side floor so now It has very minor visible rust. (My Jeep lives in Vermont). The jeep runs awesome and the previous owner only ran synthetic (which I'll be switching over to a high mileage blend most likely. That's a topic I've read enough about on here). Its leaking a bit of oil (from valve cover) but I bought a new valve cover gasket and ccv elbows/grommets which hopefully does the trick. I fixed the wires in the door jams and all(most) of my electrical system works now. Other than that, it has given me no real problems so far. But I've only owned it for a bit longer than month.
Questions:
My leaf springs are slightly inverted so I know I need to replace those. Does this mean I need to replace my coil springs and shock absorbers? Jeeps drive rough, I know this. but mine sounds like it's taking a real beating going over cracks/bumps in the road.

(This is where I don't know my parts very well) My bushings and ball joints seem like they all need replacing. I'll post some pics.

If I get myself into a job like this, what else should I expect to replace? I assume from the condition of my suspension, nothing's already been replaced or it's been awhile. I know with leaf springs comes u-joints and shackles but that's about all I know.

Most important question: Is doing all of this worth it? It will be a pricey fix so I don't want to replace my entire suspension system and have a bigger issue a little later on. I'm not sure if there is too much rust to go ahead and do this. But I do plan on keeping this jeep as long as I can obviously.

Another thing, you probably already realized I'm looking to keep my jeep stock. No lift or anything (except the natural lift of new springs). Only minor off-roading and the most I'll be carrying is a couple kayaks and a few dogs.

Again, I'm new to all this. Check out these pictures. Not great but best I could take with the wheels still on.

OldTires

Worth it doing all these repairs? Depends how much rust you have and it looks like you have some rust in critical places that cannot be repaired easily or cheaply.

The rust on the frame at the top of the spring coils looks bad. Before doing anything else, I would take the springs off and see how much metal is left there. If there are holes there and the metal is brittle (take a screw driver to it and poke it hard) then there is no use doing anything else to the Jeep. Get rid of it. If it is still solid under all that rust, then you have to wire brush all that rust till you find bare metal, treat it with rust converter and paint it real good.

If you don't want to do much to it and drive it until there is no fix (some suspension component will break and you won't be able to replace it because of rust), I would wire brush as much rust off as possible, spray an anti rust retarder like LPS 3 on the rust spots and drive it until it is not safe to drive anymore.

Whatever you decide to do, if you keep driving it, replace your brake lines ASAP - they look very rusty. Check the ones that go to the rear too, chances are they are rusty too and ready to fail. Also replace the rubber hoses to the brake lines, as they probably need replacing too.

Good luck.

OldTires

You also want to check the amount of rust on the leaf spring shackles, they are prone to rusting away and require new metal welding to fix.

Not to mention you may have the Jeep models with the bad engine head that cracks, which would be another ordeal to deal with and expensive.

Basshark7

2000 has the 0331 Head, Mine is very close to 200K miles and still has the original head, when you replace the valve cover gasket check between the #3 and #4 cylinder, that is where most crack. If your head is still good, be on the lookout for unexplained coolant lose. The sway bar link you have pictured looks exactly the same as mine did right before it snapped on a fire road.

BlueRidgeMark

Who does? Looks to me like you are learning fast!





You did all that in a MONTH????



Young man, you are alright!


You've obviously done a lot of research and a lot of work on your own. You're polite and respectful, and you write cogently and clearly. You put in some effort to learn what you can, to explain your problem and your concerns, and to lay out what you have and what you've already done, so that people don't have to play Twenty Questions to help you.


You are a very refreshing change from the many who come on here groveling for help "Please help!!!" as if they are the only person in the world who needs a pointer or two, and as if their tiny problem is the end of the world. Many of them can't string together a coherent sentence, and worse, they think it doesn't matter and don't try.

You made the effort to craft a post that helps people help you, and I think the mods should make this a sticky to show young people how it's done.

Tell your folks they did a good job.

Vermonster00

Thanks! I really appreciate that reply. When I said "I" replaced the rocker panels and floor, I actually meant I had a buddy of mine do it who did an amazing job. My father helped me with the wiring as well. More like I helped him actually. I guess my choice of words were a little deceiving. Although I have done my research because when I own something or if I am interested in something, I like to learn as much as possible about it. Being able to write properly and comprehensively is something I picked up on in school and I appreciate your nice words. It's something young people and some older people don't value enough nowadays.

dmill89

^This


^and this,


Those front spring towers look scary, but it is always hard to tell just from pictures (could just be surface rust and paint bubbling or could be severely rotted metal) make sure to check those out and see if their solid, and also check the rest of the frame and other suspension mounts. If there is any significant structural rot it probably isn't worth fixing or spending money on a full suspension overhaul, and your best bet is to either sell it and look for something with less/no rust or do the bare minimum to make it safe and get a year or two out of it until the rust gets too severe for it to be safe/drivable (assuming that it isn't at that point already).


If the rust isn't too bad and is fixable clean/fix/treat it (POR15, RustBullet, Chassis Saver, etc.) ASAP, it will only get worse on its own. Suspension wise it looks like a full overhaul is in order, the coils are probably ok, but the insulators look shot, as you noted the leafs, shocks, ball joints, and sway bar links all look like they need to be replaced. The shocks look like Monroe Matics (the cheapest Monroes) so they have likely been replaced by a previous owner, but it looks like that was many years/miles ago (judging from the rust) and they are probably due again (and they're cheap/easy enough you might as well if you are doing everything else).


^Definitely, though a cracked 0331 head (assuming you catch it early enough that coolant contamination of the oil doesn't damage the bearings) is minor, compared to potential major structural rust.

Vermonster00

So I replaced the valve cover gasket and took a look at the head. There are no visible cracks so I believe I'm okay as far as a cracked head goes. I have yet to take the coil springs off to check for severe rust because of time and weather but I did poke around with a screwdriver with them still on. I pushed as hard as I could at the rust on the frame where the spring mounts and it seems like it is pretty solid. No poking through or any weakness that I could find. Does this tell me anything or does the coil spring need to come off? The rear shackles/mounts also have rust obviously but it doesn't seem to be too severe. Same goes for the frame. What can I do to further inspect how severe my rust is? To the eye, it looks like everything is there where the shackle mounts to the frame and I can poke around without pushing through and making any holes or anything. I don't know much about this but to me, the metal seems pretty solid.

Vermonster00

Here are some more pictures that will maybe better explain what I'm seeing.

denverd1

that is encouraging. I would want to make sure frame rails are fairly solid too before you start putting time and money into it. poke around the frame rails on the inside and out to make sure you have a good platform to build on. I would be most worried about the areas right behind the front tires, looks like salts one a serious number on everything it touched. Use a screwdriver to test several spots on both sides.

You're going to have some issues snapping bolts when you start working on things, thats for sure.

GregB58

2x what BlueRidgeMark said !! As far as Jeep advice goes, I'm not the one offer any since I know very little (I'm a 57 year old noob ;-)). But I will say you have come to the right place to get help from many experts.

OldTires

If it feels solid, then wire brush all the rust spots as much as possible, hose it down real good with the garden hose (get rid of salt). Once dry, spray LPS 3 on the rust spots. It only lasts a few months and you have to reapply it, but it helps.

Then spend around $300 on leaf springs and shackles, and another $300 on new break lines.

Chances are though, that other things are going to need work too, and then you will have to gauge how much to spend or when to cut your loses.

Bocefus

I would advise to only spend the bare minimum to keep it roadworthy or better yet, sell it and find a more solid Jeep. I see just too much rust to throw more money and time at it.

If you do plan on keeping it for awhile, change the brake lines just for safety's sake. Check the front ball joints and tie rods for play and replace as needed. I probably wouldn't go to the effort of changing leaf springs, shocks, bushing, etc at this point. The leaf springs actually aren't sagging that badly yet.

brielly1

I would remove the front springs and really check the mounting area/clean it up. Honestly, Ive seen worse when it comes to rear springs so as long as the shackles are in decent shape you could probably wait a bit on that repair. First and foremost, replace those brake lines! You can do it yourself using nicop premade lines that can be bought at almost any parts store. They easily bend by hand. Chances are that all lines will need to be done. A little time and less than $100 you'll at least be safe. Its hard to tell if your ball joints are bad from looking at pictures. Jack up the front, grab the tires at 12 and 6 and try to rock the tire. If its tight you're good for now. You're jeep looks a lot like mine did when I bought it minus the rust near the front springs. As long as everything checks out solid, you can slowly replace the parts and get yourself a reliable vehicle. You'll learn a lot during the process.

Larry's XJ

X-99 on the brake lines unless you stop driving it and dump it now. Do what is needed to keep minimum saftey.

I'd keep an eye out for one better that needed engine, trans, or such and use this for some.

What was your purchase price?