Should I lift (replace suspension) in my 2000 Cherokee?
#1
Should I lift (replace suspension) in my 2000 Cherokee?
So let me set the stage. 2000 Cherokee. 163,000 miles. Northeast jeep so it has some rust. Frame is "solid" according to my mechanic. Just some surface rust. My suspension is shot. I bought the jeep for $1,200 and immediately put $800 into it to fix all visible rust and replace floor pan and rocker panels. I've replaced the front brake lines, brake calipers, rear brakes. A few other small things. My suspension is shot. I'm wondering if it's worth spending the money to replace the suspension. I'm not worried about getting my money back out of it as much as I'm concerned with getting a few more years. It runs great. I'm worried something else might **** the bed or it will rust out before too long. Im also anticipating having to replace more than just the springs and shocks because all my bushings and such are shot. It would be nice to know what else I'd have to replace such as track bar and ?. I don't need a lift any higher than 3 inches, maybe 4. I want to spend as little money as possible without cheaping out and sacrificing quality. I'm hoping some of you have some experience or have been in the same situation and have some advice. BTW... pictures of the springs were taken with jeep up on a lift so it does not show how incredibly worn out they are. Basically inverted. I appreciate the constructive responses.
#3
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You could replace the suspension and easily get another 100,000 miles out of this thing. The Cherokees are awesome, and the drivetrain is sturdy. The main thing to worry about is body/frame rust - and yours is minimal.
For suspension - every piece you want is available either new from a retailer, or used from a wrecking yard. I'm rebuilding my XJ to stock with stuff from Crown Automotive - it's kinda the O.E. option now.
For suspension - every piece you want is available either new from a retailer, or used from a wrecking yard. I'm rebuilding my XJ to stock with stuff from Crown Automotive - it's kinda the O.E. option now.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
In comparison to his it to is. He got his at an auction for couple hundred bucks that had places rotted out. Gonna make it spiffy though right Mahoney? There does seem to be large areas of rust though. I wouldn't lift unless you really want to.
edit: I'm not so sure I would call it minimal. Looking back at the pics it seems the whole under carriage is covered in rust?
edit: I'm not so sure I would call it minimal. Looking back at the pics it seems the whole under carriage is covered in rust?
Last edited by Martlor13; 02-02-2017 at 03:13 PM.
#7
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: Golen 4.6L
That looks like mostly surface rust, a little uglier because you can see where some of the undercoating is hanging on and making it look rougher than it is. HOWEVER, I would be seriously considering some rust mitigation in the near future. Surface rust can turn into holes.
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#8
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going back to the original question; I would think it is worth it to replace the suspension. you can replace it with OEM parts, a 3" lift, or you could do an "upcountry" suspension-which will give you about an inch over stock.
you will need new rear leaf springs, new coil springs up front, and new shocks. If you do a 3" lift there are other parts that should/could be replaced.
do yourself a favor and start spraying everything down now with PB blaster
you will need new rear leaf springs, new coil springs up front, and new shocks. If you do a 3" lift there are other parts that should/could be replaced.
do yourself a favor and start spraying everything down now with PB blaster
#9
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
going back to the original question; I would think it is worth it to replace the suspension. you can replace it with OEM parts, a 3" lift, or you could do an "upcountry" suspension-which will give you about an inch over stock.
you will need new rear leaf springs, new coil springs up front, and new shocks. If you do a 3" lift there are other parts that should/could be replaced.
do yourself a favor and start spraying everything down now with PB blaster
you will need new rear leaf springs, new coil springs up front, and new shocks. If you do a 3" lift there are other parts that should/could be replaced.
do yourself a favor and start spraying everything down now with PB blaster
#10
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4L, 6 cylinder, 190 hp, 225 ft lp torque
That first pic of your Cherokee makes it look like it has a good stance. Anyway, MAYBE a kit like this one http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-sus...-kit-630x.html.
If your going to do the work yourself be prepared for bolts that WILL break because of rust. Wire brush and liquid wrench every bolt your going to touch days before the job.
Added expenses, a little bigger tires to make the Cherokee look balanced after you lift it and your gas mileage will decrease. Oh and don't forget all of the other modifications your going to want to do after you get started. (:
Have fun.
If your going to do the work yourself be prepared for bolts that WILL break because of rust. Wire brush and liquid wrench every bolt your going to touch days before the job.
Added expenses, a little bigger tires to make the Cherokee look balanced after you lift it and your gas mileage will decrease. Oh and don't forget all of the other modifications your going to want to do after you get started. (:
Have fun.
#11
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Down here in VA that XJ would scare the hell out of me. I wouldn't mess with that one. I'd suggest finding one from the south with no rust. But that wasn't your question. Assuming the body and frame are solid, that jeep should be good for another 100k. My 90 has 235k on it and is still running strong. Be careful lifting it, after 3" you have to replace a lot more components. I think 2" of lift is the cheapest option. I've spent a bucket of cash and many hours on mine since I bought it. I'm at 5" of lift w/ 33s. I'm about $2500 into lift, tires, and supporting mods. I did all of the work myself and sourced many parts at great prices used. I bought the jeep cheap and it is now in great shape and rides good, so I'm happy with the cost.
5" of lift involved the following:
Control arm drop brackets
5" front springs
Sway bar end links
Track bar
Longer LCAs
New bushings for the UCAs
Drop pitman arm
Shocks front and rear
Shackle relocation brackets
Longer shackles
Bastard pack leaf springs
SYE
Double cardon driveshaft in rear
Rotated rear axle to correct pinion angle (corrected when I welded new perches on the axle)
33" tires involved:
Regearing axles
Cut fenders for more clearance
Extend bump stops
5" of lift involved the following:
Control arm drop brackets
5" front springs
Sway bar end links
Track bar
Longer LCAs
New bushings for the UCAs
Drop pitman arm
Shocks front and rear
Shackle relocation brackets
Longer shackles
Bastard pack leaf springs
SYE
Double cardon driveshaft in rear
Rotated rear axle to correct pinion angle (corrected when I welded new perches on the axle)
33" tires involved:
Regearing axles
Cut fenders for more clearance
Extend bump stops
#12
Thank you to everyone for the advice. This forum never seems to disappoint me. It all really helps although it leaves me kinda stumped. I seem to get a mix between people saying go ahead and put some money underneath it, it has a lot of life left in it (which I know it does) and people saying it has so much rust, I shouldn't waste my money. My problem is I'm a cheap bastard and I don't like to spend money. However, when I do decide to spend money, I only buy quality. I would enjoy this jeep with new suspension so much. I think the current condition is unsafe to some extent because at highway speeds, it doesn't handle bumps or potholes very well at all. I'm wondering if new springs and shocks will improve that. Probably, right? Hmmm. I don't know. I would do it myself because I know it's possible and I could, but as stupid as it might sound to many of you, I'd rather just pay "professionals" than make myself crazy. I already did a lot of brake work and it can be super frustrating when dealing with rust. I'm not a mechanic, not that you need to be, but breaking bolts and such is inevitable and not worth the frustration to me. Who knows, maybe I'll change my mind, maybe y'all can convince me otherwise. Anyway, I'll continue to read everyone's advice and maybe bring it to my local aftermarket shop (which is top notch) and see how they want to screw me. I've actually heard very good things.
#14
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If you really want to spend more money and get the best ride, you can buy OME stuff and get about 2" of lift.
also Rancho sells a 1.5" lift too. Not sure how it rides
Last edited by mikesignal; 02-02-2017 at 07:20 PM.
#15
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
2 rear leaf springs, 2 front coil springs and 4 shocks. Dorman, moog, bilstein, or whatever the local parts store has.
If you really want to spend more money and get the best ride, you can buy OME stuff and get about 2" of lift.
also Rancho sells a 1.5" lift too. Not sure how it rides
If you really want to spend more money and get the best ride, you can buy OME stuff and get about 2" of lift.
also Rancho sells a 1.5" lift too. Not sure how it rides
https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automot...J+leaf+springs
A few of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automot.../dp/B008VPV5NC
Then get some shocks at the local parts store.