So im runnin abt 4 inches of lift rite now and my driveshaft has a pretty good angle in it. Alot of people buy SYE (slip yoke eliminators) but would it work if i put bushings or washers under my crossmember to lower my entire drivetrain and then bought longer bolts for the crossmember. Im just lookin for some feedback and opinions before i consider doing this. Thanks.

 

Like a transfer case drop?

 

A transfer case drop might help cover up the problems but you may want to eventually get a sye.

 

yep that is how you do it and if you are making your own, i think tha 1.5" drop is max you want to go, someone correct me if i'm wrong, or just buy a kit bc i think they aren't more than $20 for the cheap ones.

 

itd be like a TCD for the rear tho

 

Thats what they are talking about.

 

Yes, I would suggest doing a T case drop. I don't think you want to go more than 1.5 inches though, because when you drop your t case it tilts your engine to the rear, and puts allot of pressure on your motor mounts. Although this will work, it would be best to get an SYE kit..

 

1" max. is RECOMMENDED.

Along with the 1" TC drop, you should use axle shims to point the pinion of the rear axle towards the TC

Ask about what shim to use and you will get 1000's of replies, each being different.

Get a magnetic angle finder (most get them from Harbor Freight). They are cheap.
With the driveshaft removed, place angle finder on both the output shaft (shaft itself not the seal) and the axle pinion.
Take the two numbers and subtract the smaller from the larger and that will give you a degree number. The "optimun" number is somewhere in the range of 6-9* (I usually shoot closer to the 9* mark)

Subtract the "target number" from YOUR number and this will give you the size degree shim you will need.
MOST TIMES its is something on the order of a 3, 4 or 6* shim (MOST TIMES)

When purchasing axle shims make sure you get OAM (over axle mount) or SOA (spring over axle). This will ensure the shims you get will be "flat" on both faces ( a true wedge shape) Anything else will be for sping-under-axle mounting which will have a curved face...do not try to make these work. You will only cause damage.

When installing axle shims new leaf spring center pins should be acquired. Usually they are 5/16". Use center pins. Do not go the cheap-a$$ route and use regular bolts and try to round the heads. The hassle is not worth the couple extra pennies.

The shims will have a small depression in the center. This is where you will want to drill an 11/32" hole (1/32" installation play for bolt...nothing more).

Jack rear of XJ up. Jackstand the BODY. Remove rear tires. Allow axle to go full droop. (Unbolt bottom of shocks if needed) But do not remove jack.

Remove U-bolts. If you didn't think ahead and Anti-Siezed them when you did the lift--get new ones and cut the old ones off. Saves ALOT of knuckles

C-clamp an both sides of center pin. About 5" on each side.

Cut/grind head of center pin off. (Saves..well refer to the U-bolt step)
Push old pin out.

Put shim under spring, push new pin up. Make sure you install the shim in the proper orientation (thicker edge towards the rear)
Tighten all up.
Remove c-clamps, jack axle back up. Re-align the pin back in the hole.

I use a ratchet strap around the brake drum and up to the unibody (there is a hole in front of the spring mount) then just ratchet it forward until the pin drops in the hole. Everytime I have done shims the axle shifts backwards and needs to be pulled front.

Re-install everything, making sure to re-torque all fasteners

Repeat for other side.

With 4" of lift TC drop/axle shims are merely band-aids. Get some money together and invest in a good quality SYE and a decent rear driveshaft.