i am looking into the hack and tap and a new drive shaft when i lift the jeep more.

i have found an old thread that says they do work but there at 6.5"+

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f33/st...ft-rear-86410/


MY QUESTION IS, would a front drive shaft work out of a xj, auto work?
..at what lift height?
..with a 3", 4.5" lift ?

SHARE WHAT YOU HAVE USED FOR A REAR DRIVE SHAFT AT YOUR HEIGHT

 

The stock front will work at 4.5". Have a buddy that runs that. I personally spent the cash and went with Tom-Woods. Have not looked back.

 

thanks for the post man, Im looking into using the front driveshaft in the rear for breakage reasons.

if I carry another driveshaft I have three shafts that could get me home.
carnage.

 

When I lifted my rig to 4.5" I used my own front driveshaft for the rear hack-n-tap installation. It fitted good so I sourced another front shaft. Then returned the front shaft to its original position and rebuilt the sourced shaft.
There are a few good sellers of new shafts with Spicer components for $225.

1996 XJ 4.0 Automatic
242 transfer case, slightly longer than 231 !
8.25 axle

 

thanks for the post,

I have a 2001 4.0L, AUTO, 231, c8.25.
I have been thinking 3" but may 4.5" will be the better option...

 

At 4 1/2" I bought a new driveshaft on eBay from Dave's Driveshaft Service custom made for my XJ for $199 with new large Spicer joints in it. About the same price of buy another old shaft and having it rebuilt but this is a perfect fit.


I still carry a spare front shaft just in case.

 

On my 4.5" lift with an IRO/DBO hack-n-tap behind an AW4 (longest trans) to an 8.25 (longest pinion), my rear span is 32" long. Optimal length of a fully compressed shaft (measuring u-bolt center to center) would be about 31". The longest stock front driveshaft for an XJ is the one from the AW4, at 30.6 inches, so about 1.5" of extension. A good tight shaft will work for that but it is pushing it a bit, I have had a few that vibe when the joint is extended that far.

Manual transmissions are shorter, so the front and rear outputs on the transfer case are different positions. D35 rear axle has a shorter pinion which also affects things. Full SYE typically have a shorter rear output as well. All factors to consider.

 

I bought a used front shaft out of an xj, AUTO, 231, for 20.00 bucks.
if I can use it at 3" than I would be set.

 

I ended up running an Adam's when I did my SYE. Bought the kit from them as well, and am very happy with it. Customer service was excellent, and they actually talked me out of doing the more expensive Teraflex SYE.

 

Install sye.

Measure.

Find on chart.

Purchase.

Install.



http://www.myjeepxj.com/useful-infor...aft-infomation

 

I got a Tatton Driveshaft 2 years ago.

I recently blew up the rear u joint because I didn't fix my pinion angle, and now its silent.

 

For strength and price I would find a later model V8 ZJ at the yard. Grab the front shaft. On the later model V8 zj the front shaft has large splines between the axle end and transfer case end. It can be pulled apart to be cut to fit. The spline end can be cut. There is a very thick blue grease used between the 2 pieces. I am at 7.5 inches with a H n T Sye. (true sye on the bench no time) and it works fine there are no splines showing. I should have taken pics when I did mine.

Just make sure when you grab it can come apart, you will see what i mean when your holding it once its been removed from the jeep. If I remember correctly there is somewhere between 4-7? inches of splines to play with to fit your height.

 

You do know that it has to be rebuilt with the larger spicer joints correct then checked for balance, or should be.

 

should be rebuilt, yes.

larger spicer joints? why?

 

Because breaking things sucks. I, and I think most would agree, prefer to put beefier stuff in when I can as long as the price jump isn't huge.