I was just wondering if anyone knows how far the new pitman arm is supposed to go onto the splines of the steering box. I have tightened the nut as far as I can but can't seem to go any further. This is how it is now. Is it ok or not?



If you look at the bottom picture it doesn't seem like there are anymore threads for me to tighten onto.

 

i would say your good to go. if you don't like how it sits you can always put a couple washers in there to crank it down further.

just wondering, why are you installing a drop pitman arm?

 

This is why

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/99-sport-project-re-5-5-la-sye-8-8-install-1885/

I think I will try to run it up further with a thicker washer or something of the sort. I'm just woried about it moving around on me but i'm not quite sure if it will.

 

I have always had trouble getting a pitman arm off so thought it was a taper fit. If that is in fact a taper fit then tighten to specs and call it good. If it is not a taper fit then you might consider some form of locktite or a nylock nut. There is no crossdrilled hole for a crown nut IIRC.

 

Most are taper fit splines.

Removal: use a pitman arm puller and a really good air gun. grease the puller as it generates alot of heat. Sometimes tapping on the arm a few times loosens up the rust/grit in the spines. Heat as a last resort as it will damage the seal in the gear box.

Install: grease splines, finger tighten to hold pitman arm in place. Hit it with airgun. Mine does 1000ft/lbs so I know its up there. When nut stops turning, its tight.

 

Thanks bouncy. I thought they were taper fit. The heat trick is bad unless you are replacing the box too. tapping with a BFH while using the rented puller has always got the arm free for me but it never just drops off when the nut is removed.

 

it would take me a year to fish through that thread to find the reasoning.

but incase you don't know

you will encounter bumpsteer if you don't drop your tracbar equally (at the frame side or raise the axle side)

i personally think a dpa is useless on an xj. by the time your at that height where you need one you might as well get a complete steering system that is stronger and capable of handling higher lifts.

but i didn't read your thread so disregard this message if you covered it.

 

I also wouldnt run a DPA, IMO it is only asking for trouble. If you are having problems with steering then it is best to change to a better (stronger) steering setup.

 

Okay guys I don't know what you think is going on, but in my build thread I'm adding a 5.5" RE LA lift. If I could afford to spent another $700 on a hi steer system or whatever else you can dream up then I wouldn't have been using the drop pitman arm, but beginners like me buy a kit for a reason! I'm just askng if my situation is ok, not if you would or would not run a drop pitman.

 

You don't drop the pitman arm unless you drop the trackbar as well. I'm not familiar with what RE uses in that kit but if the mounting point of the upper trackbar mount is lowered, then you can use a drop arm but if it stays in the same place, ditch the pitman arm. Like they said above, it'll cause bumpsteer.

 

just letting you know what your getting into

a simple inverted t setup will run about $300 installed.

not much more than the cost of a dpa and relocating the tracbar ( if you were to pay someone to weld it) to avoid bumpsteer issues.

 

I know what i'm getting into. RE is one of the top manufactures of lift kits. Do you honestly think that they would send you a set up that would cause bump steer issues? It came with a trackbar drop bracket that replaces the stock bracket at the frame side along with a trackbar brace that ties back into the other side of the frame. If you guys would take 10 minutes to read the thread that I started about my build up, you might learn something and have some better advice to help people.

I was under the impression that this was a forum to help people which is why I payed the $10 fee to support it. I feel like this is my home on the internet, and love being here. I understand that you are trying to help me by letting me know that there are better setups, but that is not what i'm working towards at the moment. If you can show me some of the setups that you are talking about or help me with my situation please do so.

 

As for your original question. I think that has been answered. Torque the pitman arm nut to specs and then recheck after a few miles to make sure the nut is staying tight. As for washers to be used on the shaft below the splines. They were not on your original p-arm so I doubt that they are needed to be placed on the replacement arm.
Thank You 99 for your inquiry and come back with some pictures of your entire rig after you finish the upgrade.
Blue.

 

10 minutes to you is about 3 hours for me. especially with all those pics. i have dial up

 

Oh I'm sorry I didn't realize that anyone used dial up anymore. Basically it was a progress thread about my 5.5" RE Lift and an AA HD SYE install.