Driving with no track bar
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Driving with no track bar
Hi guys, went ahead and tried to put an aftermarket track bar on my Jeep Cherokee. Where the tie rod end connects to the bracket on the passenger side, the nut was so rusted it was no existent pretty much and I couldn’t get a socket on it. So I took my grinder and chopped off the tie rod end stud with the holes of punching or drilling it out. And many hours I have made no progress, and my track bar is still no on the Jeep. My two options are to have it towed to the shop, or drive the Jeep there, it is only .2 miles away from my house. Would it even be considered safe to drive to the Jeep to the shop without a track bar if I kept it slow? Here is what I am dealing with currently.
Last edited by PoorMansWrangler; 04-12-2019 at 02:42 PM.
#2
CF Veteran
This post has some suggestions:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/tra...-mount-112125/
Remember, that remaining bolt section can only be pushed down (not up), because it is tapered. If it were me, my first hope would be to try and use my u-joint c-clamp press (can be rented at parts stores) to try and press out the remaining bolt section. By placing the non-bolt side of the c-clamp up into the bracket. I would also take the bracket off the vehicle if need be to mess with it, or simply replace it if it got to be too much headache.
The track bar is the primary component locating your front axle laterally (left-right movement). Even though there are a lot of things holding your axle to the vehicle, most of them do not provide lateral support. I would be concerned enough about that, that I would not drive it any distance. The lateral forces could be pretty substantial, even on a gentle turn. I would hate to bend or damage all of the control arms and shock mounts...all at once.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/tra...-mount-112125/
Remember, that remaining bolt section can only be pushed down (not up), because it is tapered. If it were me, my first hope would be to try and use my u-joint c-clamp press (can be rented at parts stores) to try and press out the remaining bolt section. By placing the non-bolt side of the c-clamp up into the bracket. I would also take the bracket off the vehicle if need be to mess with it, or simply replace it if it got to be too much headache.
The track bar is the primary component locating your front axle laterally (left-right movement). Even though there are a lot of things holding your axle to the vehicle, most of them do not provide lateral support. I would be concerned enough about that, that I would not drive it any distance. The lateral forces could be pretty substantial, even on a gentle turn. I would hate to bend or damage all of the control arms and shock mounts...all at once.
Last edited by jordan96xj; 04-12-2019 at 02:53 PM.
#3
Newbie
How rusty are the bolts holding that bracket to the frame? That would be my first choice, to take off the bracket and finish getting that piece out and then reinstall it and the track bar.
#4
CF Veteran
The track bar prevents lateral movement of the front axle. The sway bar might hold things in place for a bit, but you'll probably bend all of the control arms, do a lot of tire rubbing and bend the shocks. When it does shift, I believe you'll only be able to steer in one direction (although I'm unsure of this-- you may be only able to go straight, steering may become auto or you may just have to settle in whatever direction you're going.). Front driveshaft may fall out, but again, have no experience in this.
#5
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Sounds like a tow is the way to go. As far as the actually bracket, I managed to get the two bolts that hold the bracket on but cannot get the last two. Don’t really want to mess up the suspension, just our brand new shocks and control arms and coils on, this was my last piece to change out
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Don't try to drive it to the shop unless you like the axle sliding sideways and bending the control arms. You're not going to drive the bolt through, since it's a tapered shaft like most tie rod ends. Unbolt the whole bracket - only three bolts I think and probably the first thing the shop will do. You can buy aftermarket trackbars that replace the entire bracket for cheaper than the shop is going to charge to unfsck that mess.
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Year: 1995
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O.P. mentioned not being able to get a couple of the bracket bolts out.
To the O.P.
Dude, spray the heck out of that thing with PBBlaster, try to tap the stud out from the top and out the bottom.. if that doesn't work, I would bet you the ball joint press Jordan mentioned would work.. maybe you can even get a c-clamp on it.
Did you try taking a MAP torch to it??? If not, that's what I'd do if the PB doesn't work.
To the O.P.
Dude, spray the heck out of that thing with PBBlaster, try to tap the stud out from the top and out the bottom.. if that doesn't work, I would bet you the ball joint press Jordan mentioned would work.. maybe you can even get a c-clamp on it.
Did you try taking a MAP torch to it??? If not, that's what I'd do if the PB doesn't work.
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I personally find it easier to unbolt the bracket from the frame, difficult to break the taper in situ..I easily break other tapers with 2 hammers
(my) bolts & nuts are a mix of 18 & 19mm, with a nutsert on the frame outer.
I would make every effort to get the 2 remaining bolts..if they are so rusted that they will never come apart, the heads or nuts would need to be cut off, probably by oxy
every nut & bolt under my truck is protected against corrosion by a coating of fish oil
(my) bolts & nuts are a mix of 18 & 19mm, with a nutsert on the frame outer.
I would make every effort to get the 2 remaining bolts..if they are so rusted that they will never come apart, the heads or nuts would need to be cut off, probably by oxy
every nut & bolt under my truck is protected against corrosion by a coating of fish oil
#11
CF Veteran
I would concentrate on just getting the bracket off. It looks like you got a couple of rusted out holes there so I wouldn't reuse it. Order the new one (or get a used one) and while you're waiting work on those bolts.
#12
Old fart with a wrench
DO NOT DRIVE IT without a track bar! You'll do more damage than it's worth. Don't even flat tow it.
I have a friend who's a wizard with an oxy torch. He could heat those bolts up until they are yellow hot, then hit the oxy and blow them out and save the threads!
I have a friend who's a wizard with an oxy torch. He could heat those bolts up until they are yellow hot, then hit the oxy and blow them out and save the threads!
Last edited by dave1123; 04-13-2019 at 10:01 AM.
#13
Senior Member
As a person who occasionally says "Nah, it should be fine like that", don't try it. Look up what happened on the new Jeep Wranglers when the track bars were failing. Either get it towed on a flatbed or get to work on those last few bolts.
#14
Old fart with a wrench
Remember you asked for advise and we gave it. What you do with it is on you. Your jeep, your choice.
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