RocketMouse

I've searched and found a few old dead threads of someone doing this conversion... but didn't see answers to the few questions I have on it.

1. I've read that the 99 XJ's that came from the factory with the D35 rear diff/axle setup were the models that came equipped with ABS.
If this is so.... is there a way to keep that system in-tact and still do the 97 and up 8,25 conversion? or does that have to be ditched all together?

2. Any glaring pros/cons of doing this conversion vs. leaving the D35 in? Mine isn't going to see anything more than the occasional mild to moderate trails, as this is my DD for now. In the future I may get more aggressive with an actual build. But will the mild trails and mostly DD duties be cause for concern of the dreaded "blow up" of the D35 diff?
Also, at this point, I'm running 235's and doesn't seem to cause a problem... and if/when I lift, it won't be huge, maybe enough to run 31s at the biggest. Anyone running 31's with or without issues on a D35 now?
Or if it's not massively expensive to do the conversion now... I might consider that.

cruiser54

I would keep the 35 then.

paroxysym

id keep the 35... I ran 32s on my d35 in my TJ and wheeled the **** out of it no issues. upgrade the shafts if you want for peace of mind, but aside from that id just keep it. im running 245/75s on my 01 with the d35 with no issues

JSJJ388

Im running 31s on my d35. No issues with it. And Im pretty heavy on the skinny pedal at times.

xjnm

I have the 8.25 and also ABS, but idk much about ABS so I'm not sure if the ABS is only on the front or on both (d30 on front). Hope that helps a bit.

Kymasabe

Hmm, interesting. My 99 has the chrysler 8.25. But, mines 2wd, and i honestly dont know if i have abs or not, im gonna go home and look.

RocketMouse

Thanks for the responses everyone.... I really wanted to know if I was getting towards the max. end with the D35 if I did a small lift to accommodate 31's. I had read a bunch of cases where people managed to blow up the D35. I just wanted to make sure that I wouldn't be putting too much stress on a D35 with that kind of setup in mind. More of, that's right in the middle of the range that a D35 could easily handle without premature wear.
is anyone running beefier shafts in one? Any special mods or manufacturer to go with on them if I went that route?

xjnm.... I'll have to look into that too.. now that you mention it... I only recall seeing ABS associated with disc style brakes.... but I could be wrong..

Kymasabe... easy way to tell if you have ABS or not without even looking under the hood....
Just find a flat stretch of road with no one on it... dry preferably as this is just a test... get your Jeep going at least 30-40mph, in a straight line, and
then just mash the brake peddle hard as you can quick (a panic stop)... you'll feel it in the wheels AND you'll feel the pulsation in the brake peddle under your foot. If the Jeep just comes to a stop with no pulsing in the peddle, then no ABS. Trust me, the first time you activate ABS on any vehicle the feeling under the foot is a bit of an "odd" sensation.

@ paroxysym - did you do any re-gearing on 32s? or is that mainly recommended if you go 33's or bigger? Don't want it to be a dead dog b/c of the stock gearing.

paroxysym

when I ran 32s(255/75s) on my TJ with a d35, I did not regear as it was already 3.73 with a 5spd- so no issues with power. currently the 3.55s with the 31s(245/75s) isn't bad at all on the XJ. i know the previous owner of my jeep ran 33x10s on it, personally idk how that would work- i feel like it would be kind of sluggish. i think 32s would be the biggest id run with stock 3.55s. pic below of my current 3+" OME with 31s for reference


also i saw you asking about shafts for the d35, in my TJ i ran a set of Yukon shafts with no issues... did provide some peace of mind.

firebane

You sure you have abs? Stock 8.25 doesn't have abs and I have never seen a split abs setup.

xjnm

The dude told me it did when I bought it, but now that I look at the factory equip records, I just have "Power front disc/rear drum"... sellers are liars... Good call!

RocketMouse

paroxysym... first of all...very nice looking rig there mate. I personally think somewhere around the 2-3" lift and 31-33 tire gives the XJ's a really nice look. I've heard good things about the quality of a few different manufacturers of lifts and OME is one of them. Almost did that on my old Tacoma 4x4 I had before I left the states.
My only concern of doing that now with the XJ (and probably would've been true with my Tacoma too).... that once you lift, the task of keeping things going is even more frequent than maint and attention needed for a stock one. At least that's what I've been seeing everywhere I look with people that have already done it. If I were to lift at some point, I wouldn't go more than 3". ...as I want a good combination of the little better off-road ability over stock, while maintaining close enough to stock that I won't lose the drive-ability on road and have to replace a ton of parts just to go with the lift. I know some things will have to go but want to keep that to a minimum.

@ xjnm and firebane... YES... 99.8% of sellers can be construed as liars. Whether they intend to or not is another story. I think what it comes down to is they think that their level of knowledge about the vehicle is accurate. For instance, oh yeah... Jeep's in good condition, runs great. Rust? nope, no rust. Then you get there to look at it, and no rust from the doors up but look underneath and it looks like it came from being used in a rock salt quarry. And as for running great, well, linkage is shot, coolant leak from water pump, power steering pump is shot, and a good oil leak going down the side of the block. Sometimes I wonder where the ever livin' F these people come from. I mean if that's their idea of great condition, hell I'd never ride in a car THEY felt safe in.. that's for damn sure. lol.
For me, I've always gone by the book, literally. You look up the definition of what is considered poor, average, good, and excellent condition by blue book standards and it's a whole different ball game. Do I believe everything I read? obviously not.. but when it comes to buying/selling vehicles, those category definitions work well as it makes a level playing field that is accepted nationally.
Sorry for the little rant... I guess I just don't see what's so difficult about the whole thing... it's 3 simple definitions, it doesn't have to be a subjective appraisal like so many people do. It's easy to be objective about it. And being honest with a buyer/seller is going to get the vehicle sold to the right person. Just my 2 cents on that........ dorks. lol

RocketMouse

As for the ABS.... you will also see the light on the dash illuminate for a few seconds with the rest of the lights when you start up your Jeep then it should go out.
Maybe I'm old school.. but personally I really don't care for ABS... I mean sure, it serves a purpose...but I grew up in really cold temps for the winters... and if I'm driving on ice, let's say, ABS is the last thing I would want to kick in. probably because I learned many moons ago how to keep perfect control in that situation without it. Heck, if that kicked in on me while on ice, I know I'd end up in the ditch.... especially if it was black ice.

I think it's fairly reasonable to replace on our older Jeeps if need be, but I've seen some cars out there...ie. SAAB... on their older 9000 series cars that if the ABS module goes out, you might as well junk the car for parts because the module replacement will cost far more than the car is even worth. Sad really...but true. Saw that happen to a friend of mine several years ago. And the car was in otherwise gorgeous condition.