I got the seal to change out today when I did my oil change. It requires a T60 to unbolt the housing, but it looks like you can't even get the torx on the bolt head without unbolting the motor mount and lifting the motor up, anyone have any tricks for this one?

this is the trick that was used on my 98 grand cherokee,

you get that t60 socket, tap out the bit part of it

then you can put in in the spot but you can't or don't have room for a socket at the end which is why you took it out of the socket and at this point you use a wrench on it.

i am not sure if there are other ways or what but thats what they did on mine.

Interesting. T60 doesn't get used often, might be worth the sacrifice to see if that would work. Good looking out, thanks!

once tapped out, I used 2 x identical $1 spanners over the Torx hex, then, place a short pipe over the wrenchs, from above or below, crack that loctite

once done, tap the T60 hex back into the 1/2" adaptor..no "sacrifice" needed

the reason i used 2, is reports of quality spanners breaking, the crank angle must be identical, $1 Chinese ones from the auto store, tape them together

Better to cut the Torx bit short and use a 6-point socket and 3/8 ratchet or breaker bar on it. I marked my bit after I stuck it in the bolt, then stuck in in my socket and marked it. I ground the distance between the 2 marks off the end of the bit so it would be fully seated in the bolt and in the socket and Lo and Behold my ratchet fit in that small space! I then switched to a breaker bar and a pipe to break it loose and used a wrench to unscrew it. I used the ratchet to tighten it up. I did not use Locktite to install it because I didn't think it necessary. That makes it easier to remove it the next time.

I used a Dremel cut-off wheel to cut the bit a little at a time so it wouldn't get too hot and take the temper out of it. When I was finished with it, I tapped in into the original socket it came in just enough so it wouldn't get lost in my toolbox. My brother suggested I weld a 1/2" nut to the bolt so I could use a 3/4 wrench to take it off the next time and I'm thinking about doing that.

My mechanic said he has broken an 12mm Snap-on wrench trying to change one.

done 3 with my $1 wrenches 12mm x 2, they all had loctite on them and took a lot of torque

funny, I did not want to bust out my quality tools, it would have been touch & go for a single 12mm spanner.

did not add loctite either...figure a really bad oil leak will be a fair warning sign

IIRC, the factory used red loctite on them. If the engine is running, run it to operating temp to soften the loctite. That should help. Its possible it was done once before and none was used. As a safety measure, disconnect the battery. Swing the breaker bar too far and you could arc the starter. I havent done it, but its a thing.

Found this. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/com...herokee-75462/

That Fram PH 3614 cross references as a Wix 51348 or 51348XP. Remove the filter nipple from the adapter before you remove the adapter from the block, it's much easier.

Thanks for the good info everyone. It will have to wait until next oil change now. It's hard to ***** really because everything else on XJ's is so easy (for the most part) to get to/replace/fix etc.

I must be the only one who uses a hammer to get that bolt loose.... Once the T60 is in and the wrench is on, I just smack the open end of the wrench with a BFH and it cracks the loctite loose. Done a few that way and never had any problems.

I used a socket cap

Watch bleepinjeeps video, I just watched it today.

Those socket caps are kind of cool.
Never knew they existed.
Think I am going to have to buy some just to have.
HF has the same thing for a fraction of the price.
Wonder if they are any good.

HF ones should be OK and yea they are pretty handy...I just keep loosing mine.

That's the only way I've seen it done... unless you have a "slim-line" breaker bar. But honestly I'd just use the standard method, not worth buying a specialised tool for such a rare use. I've never needed anything but my regular one in the decades I've been working on cars, trucks, and motorcycles.

I've been thinking about doing mine, just get a couple drops from it...but I don't lose enough oil to even change the level on the stick.... so don't feel like dealing with this little PITA project until I have to as I have zero other leaks at this point on mine.