Broken bolt extractor! Urgent help pls.
10-22-2011, 02:08 AM
#31
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I feel like I'm missing something here. Why not just blast out the broken easy out & bolt with a gas torch? Drill it , tap it , Botta Boom, BotakBeng. Heck, the guy with the rig might take pity and do it free!
.................................................. ..........V---Hey!, there's an echo in here!---V........
.................................................. ..........V---Hey!, there's an echo in here!---V........
Last edited by DFlintstone; 10-22-2011 at 02:29 AM.
10-22-2011, 02:20 AM
#32
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Year: 1999
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Why dont you do what i did take a cutting torch heat up the bottom of the bolt from the under neath till its cherry red and hit the cutting switch and burn a hole straight thru the pre existing bolt and simply re tap it and get new hardware
10-22-2011, 08:05 AM
#33
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Thx taking time to help out a desperate Jeeper 
I did, i even tilt the jeep to get a wider swing...
Failed!
Bota.....keep in mind its friday, an me an the cap'n have been mixin with cocoa-cola for a while.....
Scenario:
nothing works to remove rusted/sheared/cranky a$$ bolt on cross member
Broke extractor mechanism.
Today:
ok, so no progress correct?
x-member bolts have welded nut up inside frame that bolt threads into correct?
two ways: both are P.I.T.A.
remove remaining x-member bolts and get that member out of way (if possible) support xmission on jack for duration.
1. DREMEL tool......cut away on frame member inboard side a 1 inch square on the vertical side adjacent to welded nut within frame. it takes time, but it does work. Once this square is out, use chisel and 5lb sledge (short handle), break free welded nut from frame stock. If no-go, use dremel to grind away best u can weld area around square nut which is welded to frame. OR, spray MUCH PB or WD or whatever onto your now exposed nut and threaded bolt inside frame rail. LET SOAK LONG TIME
QUESTION on this....bear with me.... do you have ANY grabable portion of bolt below frame? if you do the soak after opening the frame rail as described let it soak for a day or so. The use vice grips to grab what you can protruding below frame and "lefty loosey".
If....that works all you have is a 1 inch square hole in your frame which you can A. weld a piece of similar steel back in OR, B. use some (Iknow everybody is gonna laugh an say i am fullashiza), alumizied sheet metal cut to just smaller that the DREMELED hole you made, and JB weld and A piece of GORILLA tape over that square. let JB weld cure and either remove tape or let it come off on its own over time.
Now, if the PB blast/wd soak worked to get bolt out all you have is gap in frame like above. With that, use a NEW (grade 8 0r 10) nut and grade 8 or 10 bolt when you decide to put everything back in.....use washer an threadlok (maybe?) and JB weld /tape as above.....or,
If I am off base as to your dilemma,,I sincerely apologize, but from what I read....other than welder fab shop, that's my recommendation.
Good luck sir!
cpnwrench
Those ideas crossed my mind, but i'm afraid of hurting the integrity of the frame even i i can weld, which i can't 
.
I'm concern with the fuel line which is next to the broken bolt and like i mentioned above, i can't weld.
I spoke to a local auto shop and they claim that they can remove it (for the cost of 10x6 pack + 5 large pizza
), so i'm gonna give them a try since this problem has taken tooo much of my time.
I really appreciate everyone for taking time to help me out.
Get a bigger hammer Failed!
Bota.....keep in mind its friday, an me an the cap'n have been mixin with cocoa-cola for a while.....
Scenario:
nothing works to remove rusted/sheared/cranky a$$ bolt on cross member
Broke extractor mechanism.
Today:
ok, so no progress correct?
x-member bolts have welded nut up inside frame that bolt threads into correct?
two ways: both are P.I.T.A.
remove remaining x-member bolts and get that member out of way (if possible) support xmission on jack for duration.
1. DREMEL tool......cut away on frame member inboard side a 1 inch square on the vertical side adjacent to welded nut within frame. it takes time, but it does work. Once this square is out, use chisel and 5lb sledge (short handle), break free welded nut from frame stock. If no-go, use dremel to grind away best u can weld area around square nut which is welded to frame. OR, spray MUCH PB or WD or whatever onto your now exposed nut and threaded bolt inside frame rail. LET SOAK LONG TIME
QUESTION on this....bear with me.... do you have ANY grabable portion of bolt below frame? if you do the soak after opening the frame rail as described let it soak for a day or so. The use vice grips to grab what you can protruding below frame and "lefty loosey".
If....that works all you have is a 1 inch square hole in your frame which you can A. weld a piece of similar steel back in OR, B. use some (Iknow everybody is gonna laugh an say i am fullashiza), alumizied sheet metal cut to just smaller that the DREMELED hole you made, and JB weld and A piece of GORILLA tape over that square. let JB weld cure and either remove tape or let it come off on its own over time.
Now, if the PB blast/wd soak worked to get bolt out all you have is gap in frame like above. With that, use a NEW (grade 8 0r 10) nut and grade 8 or 10 bolt when you decide to put everything back in.....use washer an threadlok (maybe?) and JB weld /tape as above.....or,
If I am off base as to your dilemma,,I sincerely apologize, but from what I read....other than welder fab shop, that's my recommendation.
Good luck sir!
cpnwrench
I took a solid piece of 2x4x1 and drilled out 2 wholes for new studs. Took the biggest bit I had and went 1/2 way down threw the holes and put in 2 grade 8 bolts. Welded the bolts in and made them big fat and nasty. Took my angle grinder, made the block flat on the top side. Cleaned where the old studs on the uni body where and grinded the studs flesh and welded them right over the old studs.
Been like that all summer, no issues. Just have a good drill press and some oil/lube
Been like that all summer, no issues. Just have a good drill press and some oil/lube
.I feel like I'm missing something here. Why not just blast out the broken easy out & bolt with a gas torch? Drill it , tap it , Botta Boom, BotakBeng. Heck, the guy with the rig might take pity and do it free!
.................................................. ..........V---Hey!, there's an echo in here!---V........
.................................................. ..........V---Hey!, there's an echo in here!---V........
I spoke to a local auto shop and they claim that they can remove it (for the cost of 10x6 pack + 5 large pizza
), so i'm gonna give them a try since this problem has taken tooo much of my time.I really appreciate everyone for taking time to help me out.
10-22-2011, 12:28 PM
#34
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I broke two of these bloody studs. Just went in from the top through the floor. Lifted the carpet and shifted a seat (4 bolts) there was a couple of caps which allowed access to the captive nuts under all that. I just broke the nuts off and then fired a bolt through the hole. Took couple of hours tops. I think there was a small bit of floor cutting involved but nothing major. 2mins with a welder sealed it back up again 
Maybe the RHD wagons are differently set-up? Seemed like the easiest option to me at the time.
Maybe the RHD wagons are differently set-up? Seemed like the easiest option to me at the time.
Last edited by Coog; 10-22-2011 at 12:32 PM.
10-22-2011, 07:09 PM
#35
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most all frame and such are grade #8 bolts, the "ease out" is of a harder and extremely tough steel, cinter punch might work but remember it's just as tough as the ease out. one thing you might try is a 1/4" dimond bit for drilling concrete. take it VERY slow and plenty of water. this works i have used it on the job site
10-23-2011, 08:10 AM
#36
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I broke two of these bloody studs. Just went in from the top through the floor. Lifted the carpet and shifted a seat (4 bolts) there was a couple of caps which allowed access to the captive nuts under all that. I just broke the nuts off and then fired a bolt through the hole. Took couple of hours tops. I think there was a small bit of floor cutting involved but nothing major. 2mins with a welder sealed it back up again
Maybe the RHD wagons are differently set-up? Seemed like the easiest option to me at the time.
Maybe the RHD wagons are differently set-up? Seemed like the easiest option to me at the time.
most all frame and such are grade #8 bolts, the "ease out" is of a harder and extremely tough steel, cinter punch might work but remember it's just as tough as the ease out. one thing you might try is a 1/4" dimond bit for drilling concrete. take it VERY slow and plenty of water. this works i have used it on the job site
I'll took into those options after i cool off....
10-23-2011, 07:34 PM
#38
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Mr. Bing, I've got more than a few hrs in with that heat wrench. (ox/Acetylene torch). Maybe you do also. Anyway those smaller bits like nuts and bolts really do blast right away. Little easier than 3/4" plate. A local muffler shop or welder might do it for you very cheap, just hit it well enough that you can drill it , tap it or chase it out.
10-24-2011, 12:19 AM
#41
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Thank you for all the suggestion.
In the middle of putting the Jeep back together.
Once running, i might just bring it to an auto shop and get it removed.
Btw, i have an idea but not sure if it will work.
How about welding nuts over the frame, like a permanent transfer case drop?
Appreciate your inputs.
In the middle of putting the Jeep back together.
Once running, i might just bring it to an auto shop and get it removed.
Btw, i have an idea but not sure if it will work.
How about welding nuts over the frame, like a permanent transfer case drop?
Appreciate your inputs.
10-24-2011, 03:32 AM
#42
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Year: 1990
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Had that problem once too, I went all okie on them and carefully used an air hammer to break (more like crush) off the head of the offending bolt. took about an hour.
10-24-2011, 03:37 AM
#43
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Before you take it in to a shop you can try a hand impact tool with a screwdriver bit in it, I've used one to knock loose seized up bolts with stripped and broken heads.
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