BotakBeng

Failed!

Tried breaking it with center punch.
Tried breaking it with pin punch.
Tried drilling it with cobalt drills.

I'll try a masonry drill bit tomorrow....any one in particular? Won't know what to tell them at the store.

I Totally lost now ,
I might call a few auto repair shop and see if they can and how much.

Help please.

DTK'96XJ

My instincts tell me a masonry bit isn't a good idea.. ? I DUNNO!

JeepingDan

Only way I know is to just break it up with a good punch and heavy hammer.
I've tried mason bits and whatever. It's just a waste of a bit.

BotakBeng

Thank guys.
I told myself to be patient and not loose my cool but after 4 hrs.....i done!

Cash for junker time

JeepingDan

What are you trying to get it out of?

Jest wundering..

BotakBeng

From the unibody main frame.
Its one of the 4 bolts that holds the transmission crossmember.

JeepingDan

That explains why it's not breaking. If it was in something solid like a cylinder head then it would be easy. A piece of sheet metal like the frame is absorbing the impact.

The Rooster

picture of the spot?

n_a_i_w

Hey! I resent that Redneck remark!!!!!!!! LMAO!!!!!!!!

n_a_i_w

Get a bigger hammer ..... Good luck man.

Turbo X_J

Can you get anything next to the ez out in the hole to turn it out?

Is it a blind hole with a weld nut? Maybe you can smack it hard enough to break the nut loose.

War Eagle

x2 to get something next to the ez out.....did u try drilling it out, like a broken nut?
and the weld nuts are round...ive drilled many holes thru the unibody to access them with a hole saw...
good luck

cpnwrench

Bota.....keep in mind its friday, an me an the cap'n have been mixin with cocoa-cola for a while.....

Scenario:

nothing works to remove rusted/sheared/cranky a$$ bolt on cross member

Broke extractor mechanism.

Today:

ok, so no progress correct?

x-member bolts have welded nut up inside frame that bolt threads into correct?

two ways: both are P.I.T.A.

remove remaining x-member bolts and get that member out of way (if possible) support xmission on jack for duration.

1. DREMEL tool......cut away on frame member inboard side a 1 inch square on the vertical side adjacent to welded nut within frame. it takes time, but it does work. Once this square is out, use chisel and 5lb sledge (short handle), break free welded nut from frame stock. If no-go, use dremel to grind away best u can weld area around square nut which is welded to frame. OR, spray MUCH PB or WD or whatever onto your now exposed nut and threaded bolt inside frame rail. LET SOAK LONG TIME
QUESTION on this....bear with me.... do you have ANY grabable portion of bolt below frame? if you do the soak after opening the frame rail as described let it soak for a day or so. The use vice grips to grab what you can protruding below frame and "lefty loosey".
If....that works all you have is a 1 inch square hole in your frame which you can A. weld a piece of similar steel back in OR, B. use some (Iknow everybody is gonna laugh an say i am fullashiza), alumizied sheet metal cut to just smaller that the DREMELED hole you made, and JB weld and A piece of GORILLA tape over that square. let JB weld cure and either remove tape or let it come off on its own over time.

Now, if the PB blast/wd soak worked to get bolt out all you have is gap in frame like above. With that, use a NEW (grade 8 0r 10) nut and grade 8 or 10 bolt when you decide to put everything back in.....use washer an threadlok (maybe?) and JB weld /tape as above.....or,

2. Torch the crap out of it (the broken bolt area) with an easily obtainable butane torch canister from anywhere until its red hot and use vise grips to turn bolt and extractor remains out.(again, if there is anything to grab)

One thing,,,,,I am presuming you have some part of this still protruding from the frame.

By using a dremel (and lots of wheels,bits, etc.) you are minimizing surface penetration as they are designed for that purpose. (small footprint)

If I am off base as to your dilemma,,I sincerely apologize, but from what I read....other than welder fab shop, that's my recommendation.

Good luck sir!

cpnwrench

Niac

[QUOTE=Metalgearmurder;1271704]HOLY ****! Are you being for real!?! WHy would you even type that?

Because it works.

hi im adam

I took a solid piece of 2x4x1 and drilled out 2 wholes for new studs. Took the biggest bit I had and went 1/2 way down threw the holes and put in 2 grade 8 bolts. Welded the bolts in and made them big fat and nasty. Took my angle grinder, made the block flat on the top side. Cleaned where the old studs on the uni body where and grinded the studs flesh and welded them right over the old studs.

Been like that all summer, no issues. Just have a good drill press and some oil/lube