Did you photograph how it was before you pulled it? You want to have a firm understanding of whence the harness came so that you can find where the wiring will connect. Also, was that as far back as you could have gone with the wires? I've only worked with the connector to the switch so I don't know how long that the wires are nor where there is a connector on the other side.

 

The bizarre part is that the lights are stuck on. If the switch were popped loose, I can see that happening. But totally missing, I'd expect them to not work at all.

 

I am still puzzled as to why someone would remove the brake switch from the brake pedal, what they did with the wiring, and why. Not knowing the vehicles history i would trace the wiring from the taillights, forward, to make sure nothing else is hacked up.

 

Note from DJ

I have followed your problem from the beginning and I have a different thought as to what the problem might be.

I be leave the remote starting system; if it were wired correctly before it would activate the start cycle it would need to verify that the auto trans was in park or natural position and the brake pedal was depressed; which is the same information that was conformed before the normal start up.

If this information is correct your problem might be relate to an electron failure with the remote starter system which is issuing a signal that the brake pedal is depressed.

But without a diagram as to how it was intended to be wired we have no idea if the stop light switch was to remove or not. If you can retrieve the manufactures name and a part number off this device they might also provide a wiring diagram.

We know where the stop light switch is supposed to be mounted; and there diagrams as to how it is supposed to be wire.

But we have known idea as to how this system was wired or if it is the problem.

 

I did take a quick snapshot, but I had to go to work today so I was pressed for time at the yard. And with that time constraint, yes, that was as far back as I could go with it. It was all together with a monstrous mess of wires and wouldn't pull out easily. On top of this, the Cherokee I was pulling it from (the only 2001 in the entire yard) looked like it had been sitting in the middle of a deep forest ... active spider nests all over the thing.


Junkyard Cherokee wiring




Yeah. I am going to do that when I get this light issue back in order.


I definitely appreciate this input. One of the boxes says, "VALET 551R" and the other box says, "HORNET 725T".
And true, just gotta take one step at a time I suppose. And try everything? Heh, why not.

 

This may help with your reverse engineering:

https://bowwoweddie.files.wordpress....0/04/n551r.pdf

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/75...rnet-725t.html

 

I want to add something as perhaps a left-field longshot idea. I recently had the problem with my brake lights staying on all the time as well. I didn't have the same symptom of not having to press the brake to start the engine, but who knows, could still be related. What I found when trying to trace the problem was that my brake light bulbs had become separated from their housing in a way that they still lit up, but also caused a short that made them stay on all the time. Clearly you have something weird going on in the brake switch department, but if everything was working fine one day and then all of a sudden your lights started staying on, maybe it's something different. Just something to rule out at least I guess. Good luck!

 

Note from DJ
If it was my Jeep I would unplug the connector from the VALET 551R black box and see if the brake lights go off.
If you do post back the results.

 

Lights ever work ?

 

Just for giggles, pull the rear cargo area side panel on the driver's side and check the trailer tow wiring harness for shorts or loose wires. There's a couple of molded black boxes in that trailer harness that might supply power and if they are shorted to the brake lights, there's your problem. The harness in my 2000 XJ went up in smoke! I had to rewire ALL the lights and rear wiper motor.

 

Roommate helped with splicing the wires, slapped new Standard brake light switch on that connector. Everything now works as normal.
Yeah, I don't get it either...

Nonetheless, thank you everyone for your help in resolving this issue. It is very much appreciated. I will come back here if anything else arises from this. For now ... just happy to have it fixed.

 

Note from DJ
Thanks for the update.
Happy Jeeping.

 

I'm glad that pulling an old switch was your ticket, but I am so very curious as to how the wiring was before you spliced. If you feel so inclined, then please post a few photographs of that. I've driven salvaged/rebuilt vehicles and this is out there for me...