Please help!! Brake lights stuck on
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: My Playground is New Mexico
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Please help!! Brake lights stuck on
I have a 90 xj and my brake lights stay on when the engine and all switches are off. I opened the door and can smell that electric smell like you get when an electrical device is on or hot. When i press the brake pedal the lights do get brighter so i dont think its the pedal switch. Anyone have any ideas? oh and i pulled the break light fuse and they go off.
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: My Playground is New Mexico
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
#4
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Riviera, Texas
Posts: 4,172
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Year: 1998 Sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Not always. My ex had her ford do the same thing. When you don't push the peddle it's shorting and not making full contact. When you push the peddle it's making full contact.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: My Playground is New Mexico
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
awesome, thanks you i will check it out. is the switch on the driver side or firewall side of the pedal?
Trending Topics
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: My Playground is New Mexico
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
so there is a 4 amp inline fuse that connects to one of the wires on the brake light switch and then goes straight into the fuse panel. when i pull it the lights are no longer stuck on and i do have brake lights still. just not sure what else isnt working since i pulled it?
#10
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Broward County Fl.
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes
on
22 Posts
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
so there is a 4 amp inline fuse that connects to one of the wires on the brake light switch and then goes straight into the fuse panel. when i pull it the lights are no longer stuck on and i do have brake lights still. just not sure what else isnt working since i pulled it?
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: My Playground is New Mexico
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
not sure but now my dumb bendix brake system isnt acting all funny. it actually brakes without wheel chatter?! lol i gues it wasnt a bad fuse to pull seeing as how everything works fine now haha
#13
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Posts: 7,964
Received 952 Likes
on
767 Posts
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
So now you know - when somebody on a forum says, "Replace this or that." without doing any testing, it's usually the wrong thing to do.
Test first, then replace.
In this case, you could have tested the switch just by disconnecting it, and putting a jumper across the connnector. You would have functioanlly replaced the swtich and would have immedicately seen that it made no difference. So, you'd know the problem was elsewhere without spending money on a switch you didn't need.
Throwing parts at a problem based on somebody saying "Oh, I think it must be this part." or, "Well, I had a problem that sounds the same and replacing that part fixed it." is lousy troubleshooting, and often very expensive, but it's what we see most often on this board.
Replacing basic maintenance items (coil, plugs, rotor, etc., and sometimes sensors) is an exception, of course. They are known problem areas and should be done on most of these old vehicles.
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: My Playground is New Mexico
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
So now you know - when somebody on a forum says, "Replace this or that." without doing any testing, it's usually the wrong thing to do.
Test first, then replace.
In this case, you could have tested the switch just by disconnecting it, and putting a jumper across the connnector. You would have functioanlly replaced the swtich and would have immedicately seen that it made no difference. So, you'd know the problem was elsewhere without spending money on a switch you didn't need.
Throwing parts at a problem based on somebody saying "Oh, I think it must be this part." or, "Well, I had a problem that sounds the same and replacing that part fixed it." is lousy troubleshooting, and often very expensive, but it's what we see most often on this board.
Replacing basic maintenance items (coil, plugs, rotor, etc., and sometimes sensors) is an exception, of course. They are known problem areas and should be done on most of these old vehicles.
Test first, then replace.
In this case, you could have tested the switch just by disconnecting it, and putting a jumper across the connnector. You would have functioanlly replaced the swtich and would have immedicately seen that it made no difference. So, you'd know the problem was elsewhere without spending money on a switch you didn't need.
Throwing parts at a problem based on somebody saying "Oh, I think it must be this part." or, "Well, I had a problem that sounds the same and replacing that part fixed it." is lousy troubleshooting, and often very expensive, but it's what we see most often on this board.
Replacing basic maintenance items (coil, plugs, rotor, etc., and sometimes sensors) is an exception, of course. They are known problem areas and should be done on most of these old vehicles.
#15
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Broward County Fl.
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes
on
22 Posts
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
So now you know - when somebody on a forum says, "Replace this or that." without doing any testing, it's usually the wrong thing to do.
Test first, then replace.
In this case, you could have tested the switch just by disconnecting it, and putting a jumper across the connnector. You would have functioanlly replaced the swtich and would have immedicately seen that it made no difference. So, you'd know the problem was elsewhere without spending money on a switch you didn't need.
Throwing parts at a problem based on somebody saying "Oh, I think it must be this part." or, "Well, I had a problem that sounds the same and replacing that part fixed it." is lousy troubleshooting, and often very expensive, but it's what we see most often on this board.
Replacing basic maintenance items (coil, plugs, rotor, etc., and sometimes sensors) is an exception, of course. They are known problem areas and should be done on most of these old vehicles.
Test first, then replace.
In this case, you could have tested the switch just by disconnecting it, and putting a jumper across the connnector. You would have functioanlly replaced the swtich and would have immedicately seen that it made no difference. So, you'd know the problem was elsewhere without spending money on a switch you didn't need.
Throwing parts at a problem based on somebody saying "Oh, I think it must be this part." or, "Well, I had a problem that sounds the same and replacing that part fixed it." is lousy troubleshooting, and often very expensive, but it's what we see most often on this board.
Replacing basic maintenance items (coil, plugs, rotor, etc., and sometimes sensors) is an exception, of course. They are known problem areas and should be done on most of these old vehicles.
Last edited by freegdr; 12-07-2013 at 01:03 AM.