im starting to wonder as I just changed my oil recently yesterday and I decided to buy some more sealant this time I stumbled across blue devil.

Now I previously only tried bars leak brand which actually seemed to slow it down alil.

But now after one day im down a half of quart just about so it seems yesterday I had about 5.5 qaurts now I prolly have 5.

Product said it takes like 2 days of driving around.

My dad told me to pour the stuff in first then add the new oil.

I hope I dident make things worse I mean ppl have said this stuff really worked out for them

 

Why not fix the problem right? All of those stop leak additive are garbage and only cause bigger problems by plugging up everything.

 

Idk why not lend me 1000$ bucks so that I can take care of it

 

All im trying to figure out is if I add another quart to fill it back up will I be ok once the stuff has fully worked its way in might it actually leak less.

I noticed what I thought was seepage down buy the bottom of the oil plug so I wiped it dry and looked at the spot again just a few mins ago and I dident notice any drops near the oil plug built up this time however the oil is new also there could have been alil old oil residue from when I screwed the plug back in. just wondering.

I am aware it needs a seal so no need to state the obvious

 

I was just letting you know that you will cause more problems putting that crap in your engine.
The way you reply you are not worth the time or the money. Even try to help people like you is worthless!!!

 

the way you replyed was as if I thought pouring sealants in my car was the same as replacing a gasket or rather that I wasn't aware a gasket is leaking.

I just don't have 500$-1000$ to replace one right now heck my jeep doesn't even have a book value its an 89.

Totaled im good for 300$. That's all an insurance company will give me so 10-15 bucks is a lot cheaper then say 500$ that's the only reason

 

Blue Devil costs like 60 bucks.

A rear main seal costs 8 bucks and you can change it yourself and you won't be putting a bunch of crap in your engine. It's not difficult.

 

man are you sure its the rear main? I agree with not "leak stop additives" so make sure its the rear main, keep a weekend day open, drop the pan and change the rear main for like 12 bucks, replace the pan gasket while your at it 20$.

 

Yeah, I'm sure you've looked at it but a bad valve cover gasket can look a lot like a bad rear main.

 

If I knew how much this would really cost me id have it done you have to drop the tranny don't you and also is it a 2 piece seal or what.

 

Well ok ill look into it and replace the valve cover first then if that fails look into the rear main.

All I know at this point is oil burns off my exhaust is all over the bottom of my tranny and even alil further and at the bottom of the motor there even alil on the front axle.

 

Bet it's the valve cover. If the back of the block is covered it's the valve cover.

You have to drop the oil pan and the inspection plate. Transmission stays put. It's a 2-piece seal.

 

I agree with the above posts that say to do it yourself; its really quite easy...just makes a mess. Find a good spot, preferably in a garage pull drain plug and let oil drain overnight to get as much oil out of the motor as possible; pull the pan and get it out (hardest part; just have to find the sweet spot in the front axle clearance by lifting the jeep by the frame), then depending on the year I think you have a rod bearing rail cap thing; 12 nuts and thats off, then the rear main seal cap...the bottom half of the seal can be kinda tuff to get out, the top you just have to tap out with a brass punch being careful to not scratch the metal...once it pops loose its easy to pull out. Put new seal in being careful of the direction its facing, a little sealant at the mating surface of the two halves and reassemble opposite of removal. A $15 rear main seal, $20 oil pan gasket and refill with fresh oil you will never have to worry about another drop leaking for another 50k+ miles. Takes an unexperienced person prob a 1/2 day taking their time. An experienced person can get it done in a couple hours. In the end you will be like "that was it.?" and feel great about the accomplishment.
If your a jeep addict like many of us its a good thing to know how to do. Once you get good enough at it it never hurts to have the know-how being such a common problem and easy to solve with these motors you can start helping your other jeep buddies out with theirs and make a few bucks on the side
Anywhoo I'd be dumping 20/50 weight oil in it before I wasted any money on "stop leaks" as they dont work, and the problem is only going to get worse until its fixed the right way so I say find a weekend and just tackle it...you'll be glad you did. Just dont pry the oil pan or the rear main seal cap off, use a rubber mallet and tap from side to side until it pops loose. I'm sure you can find lots of online resources and probably even youtube videos to help...hmm; maybe I should make a video on the one I'm gonna do this weekend on my mj I just picked up

 

"Takes an unexperienced person prob a 1/2 day taking their time. "

You forgot the 5-6 hours of scraping old gasket off the bottom of the block. Also iirc you don't use rtc on that rear bearing cap, otherwise it would create a gap between the two halves of the seal. Also, OP, the seals have a metal rod in them that you can see from the ends as a little round indent, that's where you want to put your punch. Otherwise you'll get frustrated trying to tap it out without scratching your block and getting nowhere quickly.

 

5-6 HOURS TO SCRAPE THE GASKET OFF THE BLOCK!? Good greif; thats some pretty crazy gasket material your working with! I find a razer blade works beautifully and efficiently, being careful to not gouge the block too bad but even then its pretty dang hard to do too much damage with a razer blade lol...I have never had a block surface prep take me longer than 20-30 mins. It is highly suggested you use sealant between the gasket halves, but the absolute minimum amount is necessary to fill that minor gap, like not even pencil eraser size blob...and yes, I forgot to mention the metal seal reinforcement in the middle of the seal as your target for the punch. I looked on youtube after my last post and there are several videos on this; I didnt have time to watch any of them but I am sure there are at least a couple good quality instructional videos to give you a visual of what to expect before you even try tackling it