Best locker for price?
Powertrax is the shiz. I had one in my 05 Z71 till wheel hop made it go boom. It was totally my fault and I don't think I could've broke it any other way. Gettin one for my Jeep asap. If you can contain your throttle to less than 20%, it won't lock up. It's fully synchronized and silent in operation. Get if for $480 I believe. That's how much it was for my Chevy anyways
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 17
From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Well technically it's always locked but allows the outside wheel to outrun the inside wheel in a turn as long as your under 20% throttle. It's more like an overrunning clutch than a locker. It is energized by the drive pin wedging itself between 2 oval shaped holes so the more throttle/resistance, the more locked it is
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,209
Likes: 3
From: st.george utah
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 4.0
Originally Posted by XJdryva
Powertrax is the shiz. I had one in my 05 Z71 till wheel hop made it go boom. It was totally my fault and I don't think I could've broke it any other way. Gettin one for my Jeep asap. If you can contain your throttle to less than 20%, it won't lock up. It's fully synchronized and silent in operation. Get if for $480 I believe. That's how much it was for my Chevy anyways
I have a Zo6 cam and valve springs. 320ish hp to the wheels. Stock engine Jeeps don't make enough power to break these things plus anything could be stronger if it wasn't in a pos 10 bolt GM rear end
Or a mini spool... It's cheap, has the same effect, requires no welder or welding skills, doesn't weaken the hardened steel spider gears, and doesn't have make an opportunity for stuff to fall off and get stuck in the ring gear. Just my opinion from having welded rear ends that broke a few times a piece
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 17
From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Well technically it's always locked but allows the outside wheel to outrun the inside wheel in a turn as long as your under 20% throttle. It's more like an overrunning clutch than a locker. It is energized by the drive pin wedging itself between 2 oval shaped holes so the more throttle/resistance, the more locked it is
I've never seen anything in the PowerTrax No-Slip literature or instruction manuals that says anything about <20% throttle, or any percentage of throttle, for that matter. The outside unlocks (in a turn) as long as the inside wheel has traction. If the inside wheel looses traction, the unit locks the moment the inside wheel reaches the same rpm as the outside wheel. It's not more locked or less locked.....it's either locked or the outside (in a turn) is unlocked. The PTrax info does say a minimum of 75% to 250% stronger than the axles (size matters). Not sure what an overrunning clutch is.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 17
From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Here's a pic of the PowerTrax with zero, zip, nada power being applied to the diff.....it's as locked as it will ever be. I believe PowerTrax knows how their locker works and they explain it in detail in their literature. Yours may somehow be different. The force needed to unlock the diff comes from the outside wheel (in a turn), not the throttle. Bicycles and locking diffs have no similarities.
Here's a pic of the PowerTrax with zero, zip, nada power being applied to the diff.....it's as locked as it will ever be. I believe PowerTrax knows how their locker works and they explain it in detail in their literature. Yours may somehow be different. The force needed to unlock the diff comes from the outside wheel (in a turn), not the throttle. Bicycles and locking diffs have no similarities.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 17
From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Funny how if you were to turn left on light/no throttle, there would be a gap in the teeth on the passenger's side drive cupling cuz the synchro ring sensed that the drive pin wasn't deeply engaged in the saddle and therefore disengaged the right side drive coupling allowing it to outrun (overun) the left wheel (kinda like when you're riding a bike down a hill and you can stop pedalling down a hill or are able to pedal at a slower rate than what speed you're actually going) in a turn. No I don't know of any similarities to a bike overiding clutch at all. At least I know what the definition of the overrunning clutch is and how to make my truck's rear end lock or unlock based on throttle input and load. All of them work exactly the same and look almost identical. Oh I am quite familiar with the characteristics of this locker and it's operation. Driving over a year in a 300+ hp truck and being able to save the tires has to say something
Since we're talking about a differential, wouldn't the word differentiate be a better choice than overrun? Overrun sounds like something to do with the Federal government/budget. LOL
Little throttle or no throttle(idle around turns). It doesn't have spider gears therfore it can't differentiate only allow one tire to overrun the other. Sorry my cat is pooping lollipops and coughing up rainbows so I gotta go. Just get the damn powertrax whoever started this damn thread


