Hey there guys.
I have a 1991 cherokee 4.0l with what looks like a dana 35c on the back that make a really bad noise....grinding noise.I just do not know what the problem can be.Sounds like a bearing.I did a check everything looks good.The bearings they look fine.I changed the oil with royal purple gear oil and still nothing.BTW there was no metal shavings in the old one.
When i put my foot on the gas the sound increase and when i let go ...it is gone.I read somewhere that it may be a worn ring and pinion.What i know is that i am going crazy over it and ready to grab the Sledge Hammer .
So if anyone have an idea what the problem can be feel free to write.
Thank you!

 

its it possible you have a bad u-joint? If you checked all the gears and bearings thats the only thing I can think of

 

you sed you checked the gears, how?
if you did not poll the axil apart then it might be the pinyen is loos. that would mack a one bad nose
poll your drive line off the yock and check the nut, see if its tight " i think its like 75-90ftp "

or do what i did and RnR that axil with a disck brack 8.8 out of a 90ish ford exploer most have limeted slip stock and is stonng as a dana44

 

ZachsXJ thanks for the reply. I did check them and they look fine....no play on them.
Or maybe i should just replace them just to make sure the grinding noise it is not from "dry" cups on the u-joint.Worth the shot i think...

 

mine did this for a while.... then shattered all the spider gears....thats actually how i came across CF.com... wouldnt recommend driving it like that... it made me get a new rear end

 

you might as well. Lifetime warranty "Super strength" u-joints are only $18 a pop at autozone. You can also borrow for free a kit to remove them from Advanced(you pay $153 up front and when you bring it back you get your money back)

 

comanchetrip Once i get the drive shaft off to change the u-joint i will check on the nut and see if it is tight.If You think that may be a reason for a grinding sound i will check it out.
thanks.

 

85on32+4

hope it would not break...i would like to fix it than change it.
If i change it it would be the 3th axle since i got the jeep 4 years ago.
Sooo you see where i coming from...will be cheaper to fix than change.
Harder but cheaper.
And since i use it mainly in the summer it wont see much driving any time soon.

 

If the axel kills itself(is a turdy five so there's a good chance of it) just buy and swap in a Chrysler 8.25 with matching gears.

 

exactly... or a F9

 

Eh, unless i'm mistaken an F9 requires custom fab work to be done. Until my XJ is modded into a serious wheeling rig I'm gonna stick with bolt in axels.

 

yea a lil...but well worth the time for a daily abused rig i imagine

 

Hehe this looks all to familiar, luckily you you found out before it blew up. I didn't have as much luck on bearing life when I found issues in the pan.

e12s are a pita if they have never cone out before, I don't know what your all doing to get them underneath lol. I also recommend replacing them as is made install easier.

sounds like your leaning to replace the engine, if your going to do just the crank use pull it eitherway. I don't know where you wheel, but I couldn't imagine tow cost vs putting in a reliable block.