There will only be 'play' between the pads and the rotor until you step on the brakes. After that, no play. They don't 'spring' back like drum brakes.
Looks like you're about 1/2 way thru your brake job. Now for the rears. Do yourself a favor and buy a complete kit for them. New wheel cylinders, springs and adjusters(or just disassemble/clean 'em). Get a book with pictures if you haven't done 'em before, they will confuse you! A couple of special brake tools would help too, but you can do it without them. (retainer spring tool and a return spring tool) Get a big bottle of brake fluid dot3 or 4 and bleed 'em til it's all new clear fluid. Your brakes will last for 1000's of miles.

 

Well I bleed brakes and put tires on and now the calipers will not release.

 

sure you got the right rotors

 

They look the same. I just got what the parts guy sold me. The wheels turn fine until i press the brakes then they dont release.

 

how are you getting the wheels to turn fine if the brakes wont release?

 

i have to manually move the calipers off pads then wheels will turn. If i press brake pedal then it does not want to move.

 

both sides? same issue

 

Caliper pins? Did you put new ones

 

yes, using the new ones included w/ calipers. It seems to be only one tire but not confirmed.

 

did you replace the hoses? I had an old Porsche 914 once that had the same symptoms, when I replaced the hoses I cut one open out of curiosity, the rubber had swelled up so much that you could barely see the little hole for the fluid to flow through. I assume that it was acting as a check valve, in that you could overcome the resistance to flow by pushing on the brake pedal but they held enough residual pressure in the calipers to make the brakes drag. '93 is 19 years old now, old enough that you might be running into the same thing if the hoses are original.

 

if its one side id suspect the hose replace both of them at same time if its both suspect master defective...

 

Ok, How do i remove line? I got it off the calipers. But afraid to strip the other side.

 

I wish I had a good answer to that question. Start with the penetrating oil now. When you put your line wrench on the flare nut, clamp down on the wrench's head with a good pair of vice-grips, as hard as you can. Heat may help, but understand that you need to cut the hose if you torch the line, and also understand that pressure buildup may blow the hose off the crimp with an alarming bang (it's happened to me) and that the fluid will boil and come out very hot and can hurt you badly. It is also flammable so have fire extinguisher nearby.

In many cases it may be easier to fabricate new hard lines than to try to save the old ones. (just went through this the other day while replacing a wheel cylinder on my roommate's truck.)

 

I want to say thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread.

Here is the update.

I have two people come check out Jeep and both say they have never seen this happen and they are not sure what problem was. One was a DIY guy down the street and the other a mobile mechanic. The mobile guy tested the lines when he was bleeding them and the pressure on them looks OK.So maybe brake lines still good. And that if all was ok w/ brakes before hand it is prob the new callipers that i installed. does that sound reasonable? To me - maybe - because they might be refurbished cores? but how likely would the parts store sell 2 defective parts?

Temped to have the freakin thing towed to mechanic and prepare to get bent.