here is a link to my last post

so i replaced my master cylinder and brake booster with a 99 cherokee.

i tried to bleed my rear brakes, i opened my rear bleeder screw, and pressed on my brake pedal, and the pedal got firm, like the bleeder was not open.

i thought that i might have something in my proportioning valve so i replaced that with an extra used one i had sitting around.

so today i bled my master cylinder again, and i also bought a brake bleeder hand pump.

i tried to vacuum pump the fluid through my system, but i think the pump is cheap, because i pump and pump and pump, and i still don't get much fluid coming out. i get mostly air, after about 10 min of pumping the fluid in my reservoir would go down about a 1/8 of an inch.

the fluid that came out the bleeder and the fluid that went down in the reservoir looks to be about the same.

but i never get a solid stream of fluid coming out of my rear bleeder with the hand pump.

and my brae pedal is still very firm, so i cant bleed my breaks the old school way by pumping the pedal.

any help would be great.

 

BRAKES not BREAKS, sorry, im that guy...

I would look for a kinked metal line, or you might have a leak in the rear somewhere, and your not seeing it.

I always use speed bleeders, they have little check valves in the bleeder themselves!! They work great and you dont need 2 people to bleed your brakes.

 

remove the bleeder nipple you vac pump should have an attachment you can stick in the open hole or screw in
you may just have a clogged nipple very common on old vehicles
if it works then just but new bleeder nipples

 

Sounds like you have a kinked line.

 

ok so tonight i took off the brake line going to the rear, an i stepped on the pedal and i'm still having the same problem, no fluid coming out of the proportioning valve.

i can bleed my front brakes fine, just no fluid to the rear.

 

sounds like you tripped the valve do a search on reseting the proportioning valve on yahoo or similar sight

 

the system was ran out of fluid. what you can try is to open the bleeder screw on one of the brakes that are working and push the brake pedal down hard and fast a couple of times to try and move the valve over. make sure there is fluid in the reservoir. sometimes the valve will get stuck. Then when someone is pushing the pedal down with the bleeder open try tapping on the valve. A few times with older trucks i have had to replace the valve because i couldn't get it unstuck.

don't know on the jeep but there should be a small hole in the side of the valve to insert a locking pin for bleeding otherwise you have good chance of tripping it

 

excelent, I have had the same problem for a while. (since janurary ). Now I'll look for a pin hole or try cracking the front like you suggested.

 

if the master cylinder ran out of fluid to the rear there is a small push in button on the valve that shuts fluid down so you dont lose brakes on both ends, just push it back in and try to bleed the rear again

 

OK the jeeps have the little rod that pops up when tripped
thats a easy one
you need to hold the pin down to bleed or go very slow

 

thanks guys, i think i figured out my problem, the problem was with the maser cylinder, if there was no pressure in the lines (like if i was bench bleeding it), but as soon as i attached the break lines and got some pressure in the line, the master cylinder would seize up, and not pump fluid out the line to back brakes.

 

where is the rod that pops up and how do I hold it down? Mine has a pin inside the valve that slides fore and aft to shut down the flow. Its currently tripped. So i should just be able to push it back and bleed the brakes? I don't see a way to do that without disassembling the valve, (which im not afraid of) but then I still need a way to hold the pin while bleeding. -thanks